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• #3677
Interesting, I have an inox Opinel no.8 with a slightly mangled tip that could do with reshaping.
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• #3678
Pretty close now.
Before:
Initially I was surprised by the heft of it, but having taken a fair bit of the girth of the handle it now feels right.Actually very pleased. Very close to what I had in my head as a chunkier garden utility Opinel.
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• #3679
Next up is:
- more fine profiling and sanding of the handle with a finer grit to remove the various marks.
- making a filet to fill the slot in the bottom.
- experiment with stains - I'd like to introduce tannin, then try and iron wash as it's something I've wanted to do for some time. As it will get wet and dirty I'd also like to try the mineral oil (or baby oil as that's what I have) thing that people on knife forums sometimes recommend. If anyone's done that some tips would be appreciated.
- clean up the blade and sharpen it. Actually quite nervous about shaping the tip.
- more fine profiling and sanding of the handle with a finer grit to remove the various marks.
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• #3680
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• #3681
Macron admits that French steel shortage has become critical.
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• #3682
EDC when the zombie apocalypse happens
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• #3683
SAK got filthy at the weekend as it had to be used as a quasi hook to get something out of thick mud.
What's the best oil to use that is easily purchasable in the UK (either online or Screwfix / Halfords)?
I have 3-in-1 and GT85, dry chain lube but all the others are too thick and TBH idk if those are that good.
Cheers
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• #3684
Recently I had to lube a sticky carbon steel opinel folder and used olive oil as the knife maybe used with food. But quite of the usain sites mentioned using gun oil as it has corrosion inhibitors and allegedly food safe.
What about using mineral oil/baby oil?
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• #3685
I'd give it a good blast of WD40 to decrud then relube with some 3 in 1.
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• #3686
Thanks.
I'd have thought baby oil would be too thick and gum up over time.
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• #3687
Tried out the iron stain and made the filler piece.
I'd read that you need a high level of tannin in the wood so I soaked the handle in a tea solution. For the iron stain I put wire wool in vinegar for a bit less than a week then wiped the solution on and waited.
Waited a bit and used some fine wet and dry to polish it (I'd left it a bit rough as I worried about hardening it and reducing the absorbency of the wood).
Quite like slight tiger stripes. An odd side effect is that when the solution drys it leaves "rust" residue on the metal.
Originally I had grand plans of lining up or reversing the grain on the filler piece but in the end it was too fiddly trying to get enough meat in the bottom inside section.
A bit of sanding.
Another stain, buff and a couple of light coats of Danish Oil...
Wasn't sure if I should have done the mineral oil soak people on forums reference before, or instead of the Danish Oil to water proof it. If it does get stuck after getting wet I'll revisit it.
Now just need to finish sharpening/profiling the modified section of the blade and tidy.
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• #3688
Grapefruit eating made easy, loads more healthiness
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• #3689
nice Job !
done this in 1992
DSCF0670[1] by Sloogy Fresh -
• #3690
Nice.
It's a fun knife to mod as they're so cheap and have plenty of handle to play with.
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• #3691
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• #3692
Bought some knives. They're ok I think
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• #3693
I've just been looking at those blocks. How do you find that knife block? Can you get the knives off one-handed or do you need to hold it down? Do you have to lift them upwards to get them off or can you pull them outwards?
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• #3694
You can pull them outwards, but they glide beautifully upwards too. One-handed action for both is fine.
The blocks has what feels like several veins of magnets they aren't over-powering at all - but they do mean knives naturally fall into certain positions. I'd say you can easily put 3 each side without any knife touching another, but if I placed another medium or large knife on this side it would touch another knife.
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• #3695
Started a small knife making project.
Yakut style blade with a simple birch handle/brass bolster..
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• #3696
Cool. Look forward to seeing how you progress.
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• #3697
Used the saw on my SAK to cut through a thick bit of a Japanese laurel today as I cba to get the snippers. It made me think Victorianox are missing a trick not having a locking blade with a bigger saw and some form of secures.
But it looks like they've got it covered:
Think having the flat blade screwdriver would be a good addition.
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• #3698
Does anyone have/has used a Opinel no.6?
I've got an inox no.7 that I took on a bike tour and want to keep stock as it has a sentimental attachment. But looking at it today, would quite like to do a mod with a carbon equivalent to make a small jeans pocket style pocket knife... if that makes sense. Sort of standard SAK size.
However, looking at the sizing, plus the way the locking mechanism always takes up space I wonder if a no. 6 is just too small or if it would actually be a better size than the no.7
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• #3699
Can have a look.
EDIT: Checked I don't have a 6.
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• #3700
Cheers.
For my future reference:
No.6
Weight 30 grams
Blade length 7.5 cm
Total length 16.5 cmNo.7
Weight 35 grams
Blade length 8 cm
Total length 18 cm
Ref/inspiration for how to tidy the butter knife end to more of a finished looking drop point.
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