Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I was referring to the cheaper version of the SBs, with puncture strip, £25 a pop.

Kojaks do sound good. What's the grip like in the wet?

Just realised this was totally the wrong thread for my question, apologies, it's my first day on the internet...

@rogan
How about these?
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPHEARDPTSE/hed-ardennes-plus-tune-special-edition-wheelset

"outrageous performance"

Ha. Didn't spot that.

Is that good or bad?

not looking good!

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or excessive

I.E. excessive performance

Any recommendations for a set of cheap disc 650b QR wheels. Tyre advice would be good too. I'm wanting to take the posh wheels off the road bike and switch for something a bit more rugged for some winter 'gravel' riding to mix it up a bit. Those Hunt ones look mint but I don't want to spend 350.

Tyre advice would be good too. I'm wanting to take the posh wheels off the road bike

How much tyre can you fit in the frame?

How cheap do you want the wheels?

Also, you don't need special wheels or a special bike to ride gravel, 700C road wheels in your road bike with pave tyres are fine. If you're doing over 30mph on something rougher than this, maybe consider something sturdier than a road bike :-)

Kojak in 35mm if you have the clearance.

Shimano 650b wheel set are cheap, but take centre lock.

Shimano 650b wheel set are cheap, but take centre lock.

If you want to keep your 6-bolt rotors and run tubeless, DT M1900 comes out barely more expensive than Shimano MT35 since the DT package includes rotor adapters and tubeless kit, as well as both QR and through-axle parts.

Hello, possible silly question here!

Looking to replace the front wheel on my venerable Allez - it's mostly used as a light tourer rather than a road bike 28s on the front and back. Some of the touring routes have thrown up some pretty interesting surfaces and the current wheels were pretty bombproof - they did gravel, tree routes, cliff bridleways with chalk lumps, and eventually Belgian cobbles!

I looked through the thread and pretty much settled on the RS10s or RS11s, but I noticed that the front in the wheelset is radial (current is 2x)- will this be a bad idea for the rough stuff?

My RS*1's have always been really solid. It's the low spoke count that would scare me, more than radial. With that said I know that Tester has ridden them extensively and has never had any complaints. If you break a spoke, you might be pretty stuck.

I've found RS11's to be decent, no problems with low spoke count and when you add up me+bike+bag with lock it can get very heavy. However I did wear through the braking surface in just about a year of commuting.

Thanks guys, that's all I needed to hear! Bought a full set from Ribble @ £100.

It's the de facto wheels I recommend to customers, when replacing their worn out one.

Anyone ridden the 2016 Ksyrium? Thoughts?

Braking surface very concave on my old front and they have been near faultless considering what they've been through. Zondas are cheap though and people seem to like them although I worry mixing a Shimano groupset with Campag wheels will upset me somehow.

Had too many issues with consecutive sets of mavic wheels to trust them again.

Zondas have been rock solid for me, and I'm a heavy rider.

Another +1 for Zondas. I'm also a heavy rider, put 1200 miles on them so far with zero issues.

If you don't want to do the Shimano Groupset/ Campag wheels thing, Fulcrum 3's are identical but with a different lacing pattern

Looking for a disc wheelset built around Pacenti sl25 rims.

32h front and rear. Dynamo hub up front (used for charging lights/devices) and unsure on the rear hub. Possibly Hope?

Thru axle.

Will be used for long distance rides and some offroad fun.

Recommendations?

Rear Hope hub failure in Belgium earlier this month on long distance ride.

The man had another failure last year already so unlikely to get Hope again.

http://www.justridingalong.com/dynamo-front-wheel-builder.html

Lots of option for hubs.

I know people who've had Hope hubs fail and others who've had a set for over a decade that haven't seen anything more than the occasional bearing change.

They're unbelievably helpful when it comes to warranty/service stuff which (along with the UK made aspect) is well worth it over the low chance of a ride-ending failure...

Yes you could get parts for this car in Germany in the seventies.

I guess this more a track question and I think this has been highlighted once but what are the benefits for wider rims on the track?

I wanted 25mm with 25mm tyres, but the clearance on my Look is very tight and I don't want t ruin the paintjob, so I am thinking either still keep the 25mm wide rims but use 23mm tyres instead or just reduce the width and get both 23mm rims and tyres.

Which is better for track and possibly some road crit racing?