Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I need to get a sweet pair of clinchers built up.
Have a pair of CK R45 20/24 hubs. Wanted to build them onto ardennes/belgium rims, but cant find them available anywhere in 20/24 drilling.

What other rim options should i be looking at??
Dont really want H+Son.... And dont really want to have to deal with hassle of importing anything. Sort or aero, sort of wide would be nice. Nothing too shallow.

http://www.justridingalong.com/parts/wheel-parts/rims/pacenti-sl23-rims.html

or

http://www.justridingalong.com/parts/wheel-parts/rims/stans-notubes-ztr-alpha-400-tubeless-road-rim.html

?

PX do it all the time. Did it to me on some Fizik shoes. Sub-human Yorkshire scum (with very reasonable prices).

Haven't really looked into Pacenti. They look suitable though.
Are they good quality?

internet says yes; they are flo of AW 2013

Hoops, see if Cycle Clinic are selling their Kinlin XC279 separately from the wheelsets?

I must have just been really lucky with them.

Haven't really looked into Pacenti. They look suitable though.
Are they good quality?

Well reviewed here.

Scarlett has them - he said they were nice.

Have the 650b version, made the Velocity A23 look very crude.

Got pacenti sl23s in 24/28 on ck on my look 566 and in 32/32 on Phil wood hubs on my cinelli parallax - cracking rims. Maybe overpriced but they run well, build up nicely, braking surface is decent and thick and they make a 23 tyre come out with a brilliant profile. No complaints here.

Is this what I need to run 9sp cassette on 11sp wheels?

Presumably I don't need the extra 1mm spacer that you'd use for fitting a 10sp cassette?

You need a spacer to run 8/9/10 speed cassette on 11 speed hubs, they all have the same width, just different spacing.

Having said that, it gave me an idea to run an 8 speed cassette plus 1 more to get 9 speed with 8 speed spacing, hmm.

Ed, the link there was supposed to be a 1.85mm spacer.

I was asking, do I just need the 1.85mm spacer, or do I need that plus a 1mm spacer?

I have a race licence, as it happens.

Norway- it's a duathlon, and it's certainly treated as a race by a large number of the entrants, although there is (and I think this is awesome) also a large cadre of grannies on MTB's grinding up the mountain behind the faster riders.

There is two types of License in Norway. I wont pretend to understand the system. But mainly it comes down to those amassing Points for pro stuff, and those racing for shit'n'kicks. The pro wanabes start a few mins before everyone else. As far they are concerned its the national climbing championship. Although this isnt really offical.

Ed, the link there was supposed to be a 1.85mm spacer.

I was asking, do I just need the 1.85mm spacer, or do I need that plus a 1mm spacer?

Just the 1.85mm to fit 9-s cassette onto an 11-s rotor. The 1mm spacer is for 10-s Shimano cassettes which have a rebated spider carrying the low sprocket.

There is two types of License in Norway. I wont pretend to understand the system. But mainly it comes down to those amassing Points for pro stuff, and those racing for shit'n'kicks. The pro wanabes start a few mins before everyone else. As far they are concerned its the national climbing championship. Although this isnt really offical.

My race licence is fine for competition in Norway according to Knut, so I don't have to get a temporary Norwegian one for the event.

I do need to remember to get some passport sized photographs on the way home however.

As Specialized are bringing them to the "not a MTB or a road bike" market shortly, what exactly are the pros and cons of a through axle?

^^ Full titanium cassette?

Nope, Chorus, which I believe to be steel. Nicely made.

I ordered the Campag freehub from Flo in the USA - $30 inc. international delivery.

As Specialized are bringing them to the "not a MTB or a road bike" market shortly, what exactly are the pros and cons of a through axle?

For a rigid or hard tail leisure bike, where super fast wheel changes are irrelevant, and standardisation is a purely personal matter;
Rear:
Pro - None worth mentioning
Con - There's already a fairly small space between the axle and the sprocket splines, making the axle fatter means the drive side wheel bearings have to be thinner.

Front:
Pro - actually keeps your front wheel attached to the fork when you use disc brakes, unlike QR
Con - None worth mentioning

We've built a disc braked version of the Dalsnibba race bike, it's got a Whiskey fork with a bolt-through axle.

The rear is a conventional QR.

Dammit, I remember you mentioning you and Talbot may eventually look into stocking flo30 rims for wheelbuilds, how realistic is that looking? And if it is, do you have a possible time frame?