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Or just get some cheap Tiagra hubs and leave it at that.
that is exactly what I have done 32 spokes. Surprisingly smooth for a cheap off the shelf wheel though I can feel it is not that stiff when pushing it up a steep hill
I will send my Royce hub back and see what they say. The certainly aren't bombproof.
they aren't even Mike proofWell those wheels lasted 8 weeks before going completely out of true. That's a record for me though
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Fuck knows Straight off the shelf from Cycle Surgery I think.
It matters not what wheel I use. Give me any rear wheel and I guarantee I will have fucked it up in under 2 months .
Actually quite depressed now. Going to build up another fixed wheel commuter over it. 5 wheels in just over two years is just not funny any more -
^^^ Mike, get them wheels built by Sam at LMNH. What do you think why the place looks like this with wheels from the ceiling?
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So is it worth buying mid level (£3-500 to be specific) road wheels or am I better off not bothering? This is for all-round club riding on essex roads and the odd 10m tt and road race.
Quite like the idea of building up a set using the aero 'flo' rims above - anything has to be better than my current bargain basement fsas... -
Pacenti SL23 looked good to me when I saw them on Friday.
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I'm thinking about doing something like Dt swiss 350s to the flo rims,depending on how much they are that could come in at about £300-400 dependingon straight straight pull spokes or not and which spokes are used, and lead to a prettyhigh quality wheelset
the 350s have the same internals as the 240s and have the benefit of beingavailible in 24/24 straight pull, and i've been suckered by the flo aeroez
If anyone ends up odering from Flo let me know as once i have the money together I'll be buying them and postage/customs will be much lower in a group
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So is it worth buying mid level (£3-500 to be specific) road wheels or am I better off not bothering?
For racing, I wouldn't bother. I've seen no evidence that anything under about £1000 (Cosmic Carbone, Zipp 101 for examples of where spending £1k does actually get you faster wheels) is faster than Shimano RS31, although the Flo30 might be the exception. For the odd 10 mile TT, £500 is most of the way to getting you some Raltech covers and a second hand Hed3, and not much at any price is going to be a lot faster than that. For road racing, you want something cheap enough that you don't burst into tears when they get smashed in the inevitable pile-up, so maybe drop down from the bling RS31 to the more affordable R501-30 :-)
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got some new wheels off someone in my club (C4 CA 3.0s). noticed there's a little lateral play (<1mm) in the rear wheel. checked it's securely tightened. what could it be? cones? just the way it is?
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For racing, I wouldn't bother. I've seen no evidence that anything under about £1000 (Cosmic Carbone, Zipp 101 for examples of where spending £1k does actually get you faster wheels) is faster than Shimano RS31, although the Flo30 might be the exception. For the odd 10 mile TT, £500 is most of the way to getting you some Raltech covers and a second hand Hed3, and not much at any price is going to be a lot faster than that. For road racing, you want something cheap enough that you don't burst into tears when they get smashed in the inevitable pile-up, so maybe drop down from the bling RS31 to the more affordable R501-30 :-)
They both seem quite heavy to me (although I take your point about smashing them up). Then again, I'm pretty sure I could lose near enough a race bike's weight with a bit of effort...
or cheapo chinese carbon tubs (definitely won't explode/kill you with fire)
Was contemplating something along those lines - maybe the planet x 'aero' wide tubs?
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They both seem quite heavy to me
The extra 500g over some 'light' wheels will be swamped by the extra spoke drag if those light wheels are 20/24 rather than the 16/20 of RS31s. Unless you're building a hill climb bike.
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I'm thinking about upgrading the wheelset on my Canyon Roadlite from the stock Mavic Aksiums (weighing in at 1735g) for some Dura Ace C24 (1395g).
Is a saving of 340g decent for the £600 price tag? The only thing is, I know no different - this is my first road bike and therefore first wheelset. Any comments from anyone who has taken a similar upgrade path and whether or not it is worth it would be really helpful.
EDIT: Got the weight of the Mavics wrong
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Have Shimano sorted their shit out and increased the rim width of their wheels yet?
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If weight is to money is what you are after then i'd recommend these:
Rear hub: http://www.bikehubstore.com/SL210-p/sl210.htm 210grams
Front hub: http://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/ulf66.htm 66grams
Wide Rims* x2: http://www.bikehubstore.com/C472w-p/c472w.htm 980 grams
Spokes: http://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/zscxr.htm 252 grams for a 28h front and rearTotal of 1448grams and $408/£245 plus LBS wheel build £50
*for comfort mainly
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If you swap comfort for even lighter wheelset then you can save 214 grams with these non wide rims (also cheaper): http://www.bikehubstore.com/Kinlin-XR200-Rim-p/xr200.htm
I have a BHS hub on Kinlin XR200 wheelset on my road bike and its great. These were built by Fitzrovia Cycles.
Disclaimer: I weigh 73kg
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Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?
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And you can buy Flo30 rims separately now, which cuts your shipping and customs charges, plus reduces the risk of damage in transit and lets you have a free choice of locally sourced hubs and spokes.