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• #202
Not fat not lardy. Just being cautious
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• #203
Open Pros are nails. Seriously. I haven't ridden or built A23s - I'd like to though. Chrinas are basically a copy of the Open Pro design (near-identical profile, double eyelets) that use a cheaper aluminium alloy, and more of it, to compensate, hence the c. 100g of extra weight. Strong, certainly, and a great budget choice, but as far as I can tell they are no stronger than Open Pros. Whereas Open Sports are definitely less stiff than OPs (but still absolutely fine for most riders).
Anyway, it's moot - LFGSS has decided: A23s.
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• #204
From what I've read and been recommended OP's are great rims but not for all year round. Which is what I'd be using them for.
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• #205
Is it worth going for 36 on the back and 32 up front? Or is that a pointless exercise?
Thats what I'd do. Its how I wanted my current utility wheels to be set up. But I could only get a decent price on 32/32 or 36/36 hubset. So went for 32/32.
When you look at the weight distribution. It actually makes more sense to go 36-3x-R, 28-2x-F.
But having a slightly overbuilt front wheel never hurt anyone.
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• #206
The argument for nearly 4mm more rim width is pretty solid.
a23.
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• #207
Velocity A23 built on 32 Ultegra hub with DT Comp black spokes comes in at £284.
Pair, right? If so then that's a good price for a nice wheelset. Pull the trigger, don't dither.
My friend has a pair of Ultegra/CXP33's and they're nice. Plus it mean's you'll never worry about "maybe I should have got the Ultegra's instead of the 105...no they're fine...but then it would have only been £X...no it's fine....etc...etc..."
Look forward to seeing them and the bike.
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• #208
When you look at the weight distribution. It actually makes more sense to go 36-3x-R, 28-2x-F.
Never really thought of that. But it makes sense. People used to go 32h/40h, I guess.
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• #209
Wow a 40h wheel? Really?
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• #210
Thanks for the help too guys.
Next up 25mm or 28mm.
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• #211
the question is - what the road condition you'll be generally riding on is like?
I have 32c as it's a perfect fast lightweight tyres that's great at smoothing out bad road, but when I went to America, I ran 23c as the road were perfectly smooth (minus the fucking thorn).
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• #212
Never really thought of that. But it makes sense. People used to go 32h/40h, I guess.
Pretty sure I was looking at 32 3x R, 24 radial F, for my shallow rim, roadie, wheelset. Before I got sucked into the deep section carbon trap.
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• #213
How can I say what type of road condition I'll be riding on? I'm riding with 28mm on the audax machine at the moment but the clearance on the guards is fag paper thin.
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• #214
Thanks for the help too guys.
Next up 25mm or 28mm.
If the 28 fits, I'd get that. On the days when you have some load. The extra PSI you should be adding to your tyres will effect your bum comfort. Together with the slightly wider rims, and the slightly lower PSI needed. The 28s will give a notable amount of added traction.
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• #215
I need a hard wearing strong rim that is happy to roll in all weathers as this will be my only bike I'll use it for commuting 40 miles each day, weekend club runs and the occasional audax ride.
^
Surely you know what to expect on your commute, logically I go for 28c, or even bigger.The 28s will give a notable amount of added traction.
very very useful when fully laden.
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• #216
Together with the slightly wider rims, and the slightly lower PSI needed. The 28s will give a notable amount of added traction.
That's why I thought I'd go with 25mm with the wider rims surely that'll make a difference?
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• #217
That's why I thought I'd go with 25mm with the wider rims surely that'll make a difference?
Sure. The wider rim means a 25mm tyre will not bend back on itself as it approaches the bead. This means snake bite flats are less likely, and a lower PSI can be run. The wider rim also flttens the tyre profile slightly. This all adds contact area.
These differences are big in the MTB world where the contact patch increases are bigger. In the roadie terms the difference is more subtle. As are most factors in road cycling.
If 28s dont really fit. A wider rim with a 25 is probs your best option.
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• #218
Bam!
These have appeared ; http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=180791
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• #219
buy them now
they are what i have on my road bike
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• #220
They reminded me of your bike actually would ceramic rims hold up to commuting and audax though?
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• #221
are you on retrobike?
if you dont want them can you pm him on my behalf and I will buy them
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• #222
ceramic rims are tough, you need the specific brake pads
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• #223
They reminded me of your bike actually would ceramic rims hold up to commuting and audax though?
The ceramic surface is the hardest wearing one.
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• #224
James I've pm'd the chap asking for some more information and if they are still for sale.
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• #225
Sure. The wider rim means a 25mm tyre will not bend back on itself as it approaches the bead. This means snake bite flats are less likely, and a lower PSI can be run. The wider rim also flttens the tyre profile slightly. This all adds contact area.
These differences are big in the MTB world where the contact patch increases are bigger. In the roadie terms the difference is more subtle. As are most factors in road cycling.
If 28s dont really fit. A wider rim with a 25 is probs your best option.
I got one p_nctr in 500kms over Christmas, it was my rear wheel, 25c Gatorskin on Richey OCR rim, classic snakebite flat when I hit a small pothole.
Rim profile:
Are you a fat, lardy bastard? If not, get the 32s and get fucking on with it.