Pedal Set Up

It seems that seeing as you feet are one of the most important interfaces with you bike it is important to get the right pedal/strap/cage/whatever else you use set up.

So this thread is here for you to post your pedal set up, with images if you can, and let people know whether they work for you and what's good or bad about them.

Fire away.

This seems like a silly thread. Most people will write pedals/cleats. I'll start.

Shimano pedals / Shimano cleats.

Me Next

Pedals / Shoes

my turn
stop destroying your pedal/cages

MKS Sylvan Pedals
MKS Toe Clips (L)
Christophe straps (Blue)

Works fine and can wear normal trainers.

Time ATAC XS
Sidi Dominator
Dog poo

Crank brothers 4ti + cleats
Massi shoes
Feet (in)

This seems like a silly thread. Most people will write pedals/cleats. I'll start.

Shimano pedals / Shimano cleats.

Note that I didn't mention spds, and for good reason. They are pretty simple and they all do the same thing. This is all about how your feet/shoes interact with your pedals/cages/ straps.

@Manc Ronnie: have you got any picks of the set up?

@Kyle: stop being an arse!

Note that I didn't mention spds, and for good reason. They are pretty simple and they all do the same thing.

not true

bike 1: SPD SL and DHB shoes- road set up, max out on float, and cleat far forward on the shoe.
bike 2: fix: ATAX, as tight as can be, forward and twisted slightly inward, because thats the way my foot rotates

however when I get the bike I'll be using as a fix proper- MKS RX1s toe clips and straps, cos its easier than having to carry a separate pair of shoes.
all bought as direct replacements through insurance company.

Note that I didn't mention spds, and for good reason. They are pretty simple and they all do the same thing.

No they arent..I see plenty of people still using the shimano multi release cleats (even on brakeless bikes, which seems slightly retarded). Personally, I think ATACs are a better choice, but Im clinging to my campy/MKS/Suntour (depending on the bike) track pedals with double straps..

Note that I didn't mention spds, and for good reason. They are pretty simple and they all do the same thing. This is all about how your feet/shoes interact with your pedals/cages/ straps.

@Manc Ronnie: have you got any picks of the set up?

@Kyle: stop being an arse!

No, but surely there must be loads of people riding 'em, if your serious I'll try and get one later.

Odssey twisted bmx pedals
Plastic 4 gate toe clips
Odge from FGL double leather toe straps

Love it, works really well, bike gets used for tricks/commuting/everything, gives me ridiculously good leverage for braking etc.

+

What pedal is that^

Tynan, those pedals look badness! What are they?

For me it used to be SPD's, but I'm too much of a hipster to go changing shoes all over the shop.
RX-1's with Christophe Cages and MKS Double Straps in black. I'm waiting on some double gate cages from BLB.
I don't feel anywhere near as confident on double straps as I did with SPDs, but even on max float my feet twist too much when skidding and I'd suddenly go from a both feet in skid-master to a wide-eyed screaming, spinning mess in seconds. Hence the double straps and a lot of hope.

MKS Sylvan pedals
MKS clips
Toshi double straps
Toshi buttons
Vans shoes

the buttons are just for fun.

Crank brothers Quattro ti + road (3H) cleats
Lidl road shoes (ahem)

NB. Usually I like the cleats towards the toe of the shoe. For some reason my head is telling me to pull them back a bit for fixed riding, so I'll be trying this out soon (when I upgrade my shoes, perhaps).

Tynan's pedals are bebops or something. They cost about £14,000 each.

Road:
shimano 105 pedals
shimano R075 shoes
yellow cleats (the ones with float?)

Its ok. get numb feet when i get home from my commute.

MTB:
DMR V12's (grey)
Vans Bucky Lasek (white/black/mud)

The pedals are shit, i hate them, but i paid money for them so ill use the until they die, which is not happening.

Other MTB:
M520 spds
Either Diadora Geko II (if its wet) with single release cleats
or Shimano MP66 DX shoes (if its dry) with muklti release cleat (they came with the ledals)

sometimes i will switch the SPDs for some Odyssey Jim Ceilenki pedals, the best flats i have ever used.

Treading on Ashe's toes (ahem) here Philchris.

I use ATACs and Sidis, but the principle remains the same.

Ball of foot over spindle and a secure attachment to the pedal.
Use washers to space the toeclip if you've man-sized plates of meat.

Proprietary cleated or otherwise a stiff-soled shoe is beneficial.

Although in your case a steel-toed workboot may be the safer option....

Being unfortunately well versed on the topic of knee destruction I second the notion that foot/pedal interface is critical.

After much experimentation I use Speedplay frog pedals, custom arch supports/insoles and appropriate stacks of specialized shoe plates to get my foot angle just so.

Helped me out no end.
However unless I was flush I doubt I'd use frogs on fixed as they are fragile pedals and fragile cleats.

Just bought some. Do they break easily?

MKS sylvan pedals
MKS cages large
single christophe straps x4 with a homemade leather doubliser
Vans slip ons

i do the twist as well to keep them slipping, but the doubliser does a good job at stopping that. not really sure if the twist does anything.

do you guys undo/tighten the straps everytime you get in or out of the pedals? i dont as i cant really be arsed, but i do when im gong out for a proper ride. i find i end up doing them up too tight alot of the time and get dead feet.

i like the sylvan pedals but id like the flipper on the back to be larger to make getting in on the fly a bit easier.

seventies BMX pedals, leather home made power grips and i alternate between chukkas and gazzzzzellllees.