Locks that work

Maybe an option as a Secondary Lock, but not as a main lock.

@casaBLANKA some good info here. Seems the Squire lock is better. But read from p107 or so.

Missed this whole discussion after my question :-/

Here is the lock I took around France. Found in a shop in Bonn who repaired my front break when I borked it mounting the Luxos. I forgot now whether I actually used it. Maybe on the sleep stops.

1 Attachment

hey guys!
does anybody use this krypotlock? is it any good?

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/products/product-information/current-key/001669.html

Depends what you mean by good. It's probably not even as secure as something like an Evo Mini.

The padlock with the big exposed shackle looks eminently croppable and the chain itself isn't thick enough to withstand cropping.

Basically, any chain that's good enough to be as safe as a good d-lock (like the ones at the start of the thread) will be too heavy to carry round.

I use a Krypto Evo Mini-7 + flexcable on a daily basis. But I do never leave my bike outside or something.

I want to ride to university by bike and I'm afraid it's gonna be gone if I'll use the mini+flexcable only.

The Mini 7 would be tougher to break than that chain probably.

Get a New York Standard or Fahgettaboudit and use that to lock the frame & rear wheel to the stand and the Evo Mini 7 for the front wheel. Would weigh about the same as that chain but way more secure.

I used one of these. Perfect for nipping into the supermarket. There are smaller ones available too of the same type.

on a similar note, I have this krypto chain

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/products/product-information/current-key/999515.html

but it isnt mentioned on the front page at all

I do hope you are not suggesting this as a primary lock, @GA2G would not be too amused.

Thank you for your interest but do keep up

#2633

Almost any lock I could think of is better than that. That lock could be cut with garden shears.
For coffee stops I'd suggest locking hub skewers and one strong main lock. A secondary can be used instead IF you can see the bike most of the time.
See the Secondary Locks thread, for a list of suggested locks. I'd say that you could use the Kryptonite Mini Evolution. Or one of the (quite heavy) u-lock shaped disc locks (for motorcycles). The latter could be used for securing the seat stay and wheel to a solid object.

Just noticed this, thanks for that

It's a 14mm chain, and that's why it's not listed. Only 16mm and thicker, because these cannot be cut by hand powered bolt cutters. 14mm chains can be.

For anyone that's interested, we did some chain link cutting tests comparing a cordless grinder with a powerful mains grinder, in a vice and on the floor and also completely hand held. I said to Jonny69 that we don't want to reproduce actual time figures as that might show a thief that his "quick cutting time" could perhaps be quicker, but the ratios are perhaps more meaningful anyway as it gives some guidance on what might be gained by using a thicker chain and/or using it properly.

We did some cuts on our Protector 11mm, 13mm, 16mm and 19mm chains. These were held in a vice and cut with a Dewalt mains grinder and also with an 18v Dewalt cordless grinder (with fully charged lithium battery), and we also did some cuts with a chain lying on the floor and holding the chain by hand.

The ratios between similar cutting tests were as follows:

The cordless grinder typically took 2 to 3 times as long as the mains grinder to cut the same link, with the thicker chains being the 'worse' ones to cut in terms of ratio as well as timing (naturally). I think this is because the thicker chains bind more on the sides of the disc as the cut gets deeper, which obviously applies more in the thicker chains.

With a cordless grinder, the time taken to cut the 11mm vs. 13mm vs. 16mm vs. 19mm was around 100% : 200% : 280% : 367% as percentages of the time to cut the 11mm chain. E.g. it took twice as long to cut the 13mm compared with the 11mm.

Cutting a 13mm chain link lying on the floor with the cordless grinder took about twice as long as when it was held in the vice, significantly, cutting it when it was swinging around in mid-air and I was holding the link by hand, took about 5 times as long as when in a vice (or more than 3 times as long as when it was on the floor).

I think these last figures are the most important of all as they illustrate why we always say you should try to keep a chain off the floor. This makes it much harder to cut with a grinder and also with bolt croppers.

This suggests you might be better off using a 13mm chain 'properly' (particularly keeping it off the floor) rather than having a 16mm chain lying on the floor.

These poorly gripped situations (on the floor or in mid-air) are actually likely to be non-linear as I found the 13mm link was repeatedly snatching in the cut and in fact, so much so, that I would refuse to attempt even a single cut of a handheld 16mm link let alone 19mm! Even with a cordless tool, which is relatively weedy compared to a powerful mains grinder, it was decidedly dangerous on just a 13mm link and it is as you get deeper into the cut that it becomes more likely to snatch. Naturally, a 16mm or 19mm link requires a deeper cut, even with me rotating the link around in order to minimise that effect. It would be harder to rotate a larger link and in a real-life theft situation it would be happening at a mid-point in a run of chain rather than an isolated few links like I was doing. So, the manipulation time would increase significantly and the snatching risk would increase markedly, so you’d have to be very desperate to even try handheld cutting on thicker chains IMHO.

We didn’t try any scenarios where one person was holding the chain and another person was using the grinder. That would presuppose a situation where there is enough room to get 2 people close to part of the chain, which also hints at incorrect use of a chain, just as leaving a chain on the floor.

We also didn’t attempt anything in an awkward handheld position. The only handheld cut I did was scary enough as it was, honestly, when I could rest the link close to my leg.

So, the summary is that whatever you do, it is crucial to keep the chain off the floor (and similar findings would be expected with a D-lock etc).

I hope that helps.

Truly excellent testing, and a world of thanks to you @Pragma.

I shall publish this test ratio results in the main page.

What's the vote for the Motrax disc lock vs the Onguard Brute STD?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTRAX-MOTORBIKE-MOTORCYCLE-DISLOK-BLACK/dp/B00ISS4QGA

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.OnGuard-Brute-Standard-Shackle-U-Lock-Gold-Sold-Secure-Rating_59957.htm

I have a chain running through my bikes into a wall anchor. The chain is only 10mm chain with a good padlock but I live in a low to mid crime area. I have my bikes locked up in a brick outhouse with a padlock and hasp securing it. I've strengthened the door and frame and added a cheap infrared alarm inside and a door alarm, too. The reason I ask is because I would like to add a little more security as well as the chain and padlock, but would like something that I could also carry with me if I ever needed to lock the bike up when I'm out.

Thanks.

I'd know the quality of the steel in the OnGuard is high, so that almost recommends itself. The Motrax looks like its probably from the same maker as my old SuperDeals U-Lock, and since it is made for motorcycle security, I'd say its definitely not bad. The gaps in the OnGuard is very wide, so invites prise-attacks, so make sure you lock pedal-crank, downtube and front wheel all together, and to a solid post. Or at least fill the gaps as much as possible to ensure less opportunities for bottle-jacking.

Good points made, GA2G. I'll give the above two locks some more thought and get one next week. I've been reading through these pages for the last few days. Extremely interesting and a great list you've made. Nice one!

Lloydy (Staffordshire)

I opted for the Brute standard as the Brute mini really is, well, mini. Got it for £20 online. With the standard I can lock both the missus' and my bike up together when out and about, given the larger size. I'll just have fill up the gaps as you suggested, GA2G, when I'm out on my own. I can also run the Brute standard through both bikes and the wall anchored chain when locked up in the outhouse.

Thanks for a very informative post. Had lots of fun reading all the comments and bike locking wisdom.

Its a forum effort, and we're glad to help.

Perhaps an addition to your list, GA2G: The Hiplok D-lock, of which I own one. It's a small 16mm diameter D-lock: 13x8 cm internal dimensions, weight: 1kg exactly.

It's got a clip to go on a belt, bag strap (or your trousers, edge of a pack etc.), which I find to be a slightly more secure way of fixing than sticking a regular D-lock under my belt.

Only issue of course is size: I've got 50mm rims and lots of clearance, so it can't hug the wheel+ +frame+object all at once on my bike, but I guess it could for others. As a secondary lock, it can lock a wheel to the frame with no empty space.

GBP 30 from Evans if you don't mind the colour: https://www.evanscycles.com/hiplock-d-lock-EV199840

I have a feeling the hiplock D is only 16mm including the outer, sure it didn't feel heavy enough to be a solid 16mm steel. Could be thinking of a different model though.

I'm just back from New York, not seen a single bike locked with a "lock that works", definitely no fahgs

Good point! I measure it to be 16mm exactly, so that includes however much rubbery stuff there is on top of the steel. So perhaps that puts it out of the 'acceptable' range…

EDIT: The ends that go into the shackle show the bare steel: I measure them to be a meagre 13mm in diameter. So never mind adding this to the list!

Update on the Asaklitt, the one which has seen the most use has developed a fault where the mechanism will not return into the barrel unless by the power of gravity, very annoying, especially if you lock it to the bike the wrong way up. I emailed Clas Ohlson to see if I could get an exchange from the Cardiff store next time I go over there, and they've said they're going to send me a new one, free of charge, and I don't have to send the old one back. That's winning customer service for a £17 lock.

This lock was actually discussed a long time ago here, so I didn't want to rehash the previous dialogue about it. But it did not pass muster for this thread and that's why it wasn't in the list.