Locks that work

Is there anywhere you can buy the **GRP Superdeals U-Lock **online? Cheers

No, but you can get the substantial Magnum Blok ULX200 lock for similar pricing online. I have one and it is a substantial (but heavy) lock with a 16mm shackle.

Pinhead 9mm axle locks arrived. Pack of two, photo shows bolt and key.

Initially I was worried they could be opened with needle nose pliers but on closer inspection I don't think they'll be able to get enough grip.

...or some other heavy pliers tool. If they where secure thou it would be quite cool to just pop the lock on the frame and safe.

does anyone know anything about the abus steel-o-flex? i saw on the first page one getting cut through easy peasy, but they have a little number on the end. are the newer models a little tougher? it's still not made it to the power 100 but is it ok for a secondary lock?

This one http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=abus+granit+steel-o-flex+x-plus+1050&x=0&y=0
is ok as a secondary lock but not as primary security. However it isn´t cheap.

Armoured cable locks possess a thin cable at the core, then some marshmallow filling, then a hinged metal exterior. It is so easily cut through that I can't even recommend it on the Secondary Locks list. Really, for couriers only, who only leave their bikes for a few minutes at a time, and in different places.

If you're a courier, then its ideal. If not, please seek another, and a safer solution.

...or some other heavy pliers tool. If they where secure thou it would be quite cool to just pop the lock on the frame and safe.

When I had a QR axle on my front I used Pinhead skewers. I purchased the nuts as I've gone back to a solid 9mm axle. Reviews seem positive, no proof - that I've seen - that they can be 'grabbed' with pliers or adjustable wrench and forced.

I think they are perfect for securing my Open Pro on Ambrosio...if I had something exotic on Dura Ace I might consider using a secondary lock.

I use a Kryptonite New York mini disc lock, £25+shipping: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kryptonite-New-York-Disc-Lock-/280755338344?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item415e527c68

And an abus 10ks 10mm thick, 110cm long chain: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABUS-10-KS-Chain-10mm-Hardened-Steel-Brand-New-Packaging-/190583621372?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c5fab46fc

Together, they lock up both wheels and chain, both are virtually uncuttable by anything but an angle grinder, and have kept my bike secure and untouched for a few months now.

I was very impressed by the abus chain when I came across the 6mm version locking a bike in Sainsburys that they wanted removed but couldn't do themselves. Over weeks people left small scratches on the chain trying to get at it with the manager's permission. The proof is what sells it to me.

The Kryptonite New York disc lock and the Abus chain set me back around £50 altogether for an absolutely solid combination.

Funny that you mention it singspeed, but I had been considering adding those u-lock type disc-locks to the lists. I wanted to get to a motorcycle shop first and try some of them out for size purposes. I imagine they all would lock a rear wheel and seatstay together which would leave a main lock to secure the front wheel and frame to an immovable object. Or they could just secure a front to railings, leaving a bigger main lock to secure the rear triangle to a fixed/secure point.

I'll add those that are 16mm to this list, and those that are 13mm/14mm to the Secondary Locks list....once I've had a chance to try their sizes out.

This Oxford Nemesis 16mm disc lock could be classified under main locks, ONLY IF it can get around the seatstay, securing the wheel, and encompassing one railing of the church fence type of wrought iron railings. If it can't, then its not a good enough solution. It would be then used only for the front wheel.

These locks could all be used for front wheel security duties - Bike It Mammoth, Bike It Rotating, and the Kryptonite Evolution. There are others, but those were just a small sample.

I don't agree with your chain, as there is quite a lot of evidence to say that only chains with links of 16mm and greater, provide absolute protection against longhandled boltcutters. Anglegrinders will defeat any lock, given enough time.

But essentially, anyone can secure their front wheel with a 14mm disc lock, for only £9.99, or pay more and have the peace of mind of 16mm steel thickness.

singspeed I'd also recommend reading the 2nd page of this thread. The chain you have chosen to use is cut in 12 seconds by boltcutter.

Have a look at these also.

http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/index.asp?pg=7

http://www.lfgss.com/post664377-90.html

Almax have cut pretty much everything. They have some very good bolt cutters which are absolutely huge. I dont think your typical bike thief would go round with the ones Almax use, which tbh could pobably cut through a kryponite u lock too!

Their chain is over £70. For £24 I am very happy with my Abus chain. Mine is the 10mm thick linked one which is a compromise between weight and security.

The disc lock doesn't go round top tube but the high quality chain does that job while the disc lock acts to prevent a weak point (a padlock would be a weak point) and it also goes round my rear wheel to prevent the thief riding it off if they do cut the chain.

singspeed I think in London at least, professional thieves DO carry the extra long boltcutters, and some have angle grinders. There's a photo somewhere on this forum, maybe even this thread, of some middle-aged guy with boltcutters in hand, and pilfered bike in the other. 10mm chains are not up to the job, unless the owner has huge luck, like you do.

Wasn't sure where to post this, but I have a kyrptonite new york m-18 lock (couldn't fit the mini fahg around my frame and stupid deep section rear wheel, ha ha) I was wondering if anyone had any advice for ways to transport this large, heavy lock on my frame, specifically for times when I don't need my backpack for anything else. Carrying the lock around in the bag gives me nice sweat patches and starts to do my weak, sofa ravaged back in after a while.

singspeed I think in London at least, professional thieves DO carry the extra long boltcutters, and some have angle grinders. There's a photo somewhere on this forum, maybe even this thread, of some middle-aged guy with boltcutters in hand, and pilfered bike in the other. 10mm chains are not up to the job, unless the owner has huge luck, like you do.

Well, my reasoning is that even the strongest lock in the world will be broken by a determined enough thief. Half the good luck is created by judging where to lock your bike.
-I take mine indoors and onto the grounds of wherever I'm visiting as much as possible
-Avoid ever locking in the street except to pop into the shops for 5 mins.
-Uglify my bike with a horrid top tube protector.
-Park it out of view (e.g. if there is a bike rack, I will look for the rack with the sexiest looking bikes and park it among them where it is not immediately noticed. That way, a thief won't go for mine first!
-Take it inside if I'm visiting a friend.
-Take it and park it inside a friend's house if I know anyone who lives near where I'm visiting, and walk the 10/15 mins to wherever I'm going.
-Physically walk my bike around with me if I'm in a dodgy area.

^^open it up, place through the seat tube and over the seat stays and then lock so that the yellow bit will be over the back wheel. I can't find a picture on interwebz to demonstrate.

Sorry if I missed the discussion about it, I UTFSed it but no result.

What would people recommend to prevent your saddle to get nicked? I know pitlock is possible, but in the case of a cheaper saddle ( and just not taking any risk to get it nicked - would not be the best ride back home, would it ?) as a cheap solution I used to use a poundland lock, but it eventually got too rusty.

My point is that I believe nobody gonna nick your less than 20 quid worth saddle if they have to cut through something and that you do not want to spend more in the lock than in the saddle itself.

what about kryptoflex seat saver? and what lock would you recommend with that?

Look at the first post of this thread. There's a link there to the Seatpost Security thread....which also discusses saddle security.

search fail

^^open it up, place through the seat tube and over the seat stays and then lock so that the yellow bit will be over the back wheel. I can't find a picture on interwebz to demonstrate.

I think I know what you mean, but won't the yellow bit be resting on the rear wheel? Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

search fail

Don't worry about it; it wasn't obvious.

The preferred method is superglueing in a ballbearing into the nut. Removing the bearing requires solvent, like nail-polish remover.....or similar.

I think I know what you mean, but won't the yellow bit be resting on the rear wheel? Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

That's the mini so i'm not sure how easy it would be to do with the larger one. It leaves marks on the frame but its much better than leaving marks and bruises on your spine/back.

That's what I thought you meant. I just tried it with mine and because the shackle is significantly longer it does end up resting on the wheel. Thanks anyway! Any other suggestions from anyone?

depending on seatpost length maybe thread the shackle through the seatpost rails (towards the back) and lock the crossbar under the toptube/inside the main frame triangle.

doesn't it rattle around a lot?

for what it's worth I've ridden with an m-18 in a belt holster made for a mini-fagh. was only noticeablely heavier for a minute or two then didn't feel it at all really. you have to wear it more on your hip than your arse than the mini fagh though.