What time is it? Watches and horology

Wear a Helson for a bit and all other watches seem slimline.

I like that, apart from the fauxtina.

Glycine combat sub. 200m, 42mm, 10.85mm thick. No idea on magnetic resistance. I have a plain diver version and they wear extremely well.
https://www.ashford.com/glycine-gl0382.html?source=370000001&CAWELAID=120016340000055508&gclid=CjwKCAjwopWSBhB6EiwAjxmqDcEEoenn1y_pEE-Akme7c66iUZk6wE0WdEynzXTcD4U6N-4fNkoasBoCuQMQAvD_BwE

The Bell & Ross V2-93 uses the same movement as the Speedbird did (in fact it's named after it, the ETA 2893-2) and I think that comes in under 12mm with a domed crystal. The calibre is actually 0.5mm thinner than a regular 2824-2 (though the same amount thicker than a 2892-2). People are down on the 93 movement for having a jumping GMT hand rather than jumping local hour, though.

For comparison, the ETA 2893-2 is 4.1mm thick. The Kenissi movement in the BB GMTs is 7.52mm. And the date change sometimes gets stuck (may be unfair, they’ve probably fixed that by now).

So with an ETA movement the BB Pro could have been 11.2mm thick…

If you cant make a mechanical watch under 13mm I'd rather a quartz

Seiko Dolce high accuracy quartz is an under-rated dress watch on a budget

If you cant make a mechanical watch under 13mm I'd rather a quartz

Plenty of mechanical watches under 13mm.

You can pick an Eterna 1948 Heritage up for less than £500 if you're lucky second hand and they are closer to 10mm.

I know there are plenty, I just wouldn't ever consider anything thick as to me it spoils the 'fine watchmaking' appeal if it's built like an unrefined tank - oh and tool watches should still be rugged but slim - like its impressive that they're slim whilst also being bomb proof.

Ah sorry, I misunderstood what you meant by "if you can't make"

tool watches should still be rugged but slim - like its impressive that they're slim whilst also being bomb proof

This is the problem though, people want water resistance, shock resistance, magnetic resistance, an in-house movement, COSC timekeeping and a five year warranty and don't expect to take it to a watchmaker every six months. Manufacturers give them all that and then people complain that the watch is too thick.

In all honesty though, I really wonder whether most people are that bothered - when you see what "normal" people are wearing, it seems that a large watch is still desirable, that it's "substantial" or appropriately masculine or something.

I'd just like more choice. I'd like Grand Seiko to offer some 36-38mm sports/bracelet watches, not just thirty models that are all 40-42mm. And a 39-40mm diver, not just 44mm.

This is the problem though, people want water resistance, shock resistance, magnetic resistance, an in-house movement, COSC timekeeping and a five year warranty and don't expect to take it to a watchmaker every six months. Manufacturers give them all that and then people complain that the watch is too thick.

Im sure there is a better balance to be had but maybe you're right and consumers don't appreciate the compromises being made and increasing the thickness is easy to get away with for majority.

I wouldn't be surprised if focus groups, surveys and actual sales statistically massively outweigh the small number of vocal nerds getting cross in the comments section about watches being too big/thick.

My IWC is based on the 2824 with a custom GMT module* which has a jumping hour hand, it’s 13.5mm so not huge

*designed by Richard Habring, they do a nice GMT

I kind of want to like their 38.5mm Erwin GMT but I'm not sure I do.

Also no date on either of those which is a bit of a drawback on a GMT.

People are down on the 93 movement for having a jumping GMT hand rather than jumping local hour, though.

Oh yeah. I forgot to add that to the list.

"substantial"

I think there is definitely something to this.

Like the way some German car doors are sprung and weighted to feel heavy. It gives a perception of quality without actually having to design or engineer real quality.

I wonder how long it will take to pass. If you think about how much more the word fine was used in relation to marketing back in the day. People wanted watches you couldn't feel, leather shoes that were light and soft, etc. Now everyone jizzes over kgs of Tricker's and a solid feeling steel bracelet with heft.

I guess I think of Glycine as having a 24hr dial. So I'd like that.

Speedbird GMT

When I had a bit more spare cash I had an ebay alert on these. Didn't come up that often unfortunately. I wondered about one of the quartz ones.

The jumping gmt still bothers me tho.

You might also like this Alba https://www.sakurawatches.com/seiko-alba-solar-aefd557

nice little field watch that but feels like it's missing something.
I'm always on the look out for a nice solar powered watch. My grail would be a single pusher chrono in the syle of a vintage Lemania except solar powered and radio controlled.

That is really nice

Smiths have those but very thick and auto.

Happy Thursday everyone

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I'm the same. Over 13mm and I seem to catch them on everything, corners of walls, doors etc.

This was the big issue I had with the GS SBGR053 I had. 13.3mm and it was just bash central. On all surfaces.