Bike fit / correct riding position

The top of the plumb line (as far as I understand) should be originating from the bony protrusion below the kneecap.
Also, do you have an inline post or one with layback?

It's a layback already. Hmm... perhaps change it for something with a lot more layback? Would be cheaper than a new frame. But where would I find that?

The plum line advice I am referring to is from 1:11 into this video
.

Oh, and Smallfurry... how much longer should my stem be?

Just put a longer stem on.

It's a layback already. Hmm... perhaps change it for something with a lot more layback? Would be cheaper than a new frame. But where would I find that?

The plum line advice I am referring to is from 1:11 into this video
.

Oh, and Smallfurry... how much longer should my stem be?

From what I've read, knee over pedal spindle has been discredited, in a way. However, it seems to be a good starting point, especially for a traditional roadie geometry bike. Yours being quite short in the top tube or steep in the seat tube for a more upright position might mean KOPS is irrelevant. I'm not an expert. Have a search for knee plumb line and most things point to it being from below the kneecap.

Thing is though, I'm sort of putting that out there just to make you less worried about the plumb line test you tried. They might both be bollocks (or at least not relevant for you) so I wouldn't worry too much either way. Main thing is if you're feeling too squished cockpit-wise but that your legs feel ok, is not to move your saddle back to sort out your reach. Order of sorting things: Feet (cleats), arse (saddle height and fore/aft) then hands (bar height, reach, angle).

If you filmed yourself from the back see if you notice a rocking movement in your hips.

You knee looks really straight up/down when stationary but more normal when pedalling which might mean you are compensating by rolling your hips

Crap quality for some reason, sorry. Does this video provide any clues?

Bike fit on the cheap II - YouTube

Hard to tell in black and white but hips do appear to be rocking a bit.

This does remind me of the Paul Michel bike fit.

Which is bad?

Yes, you want a stable core.

Refilm it framed a bit higher. Also a lot of fitters seem to use white spots on the back of the shorts to make any rocking more visible on video.

It does look like your left knee is coming up and over i.e., it's coming up wide and then moving toward the bike before starting its downstroke. This seems to be very common, so I don't know if it's a problem.

I am looking at the slightly better footage I've got here and you're both right, no need to try to re-upload to youtube.
Rocking hips - and knees flexing outwards when coming up.
Never knew I did this before now.

How about any need for insoles/shims? Seen that mentioned elsewhere.

It does look like your left knee is coming up and over i.e., it's coming up wide and then moving toward the bike before starting its downstroke. This seems to be very common, so I don't know if it's a problem.

You're supposed to try not to do that (it is hard) as it's inefficient and adds wear to your knees as they're rotating as well as going up and down. You need to put work into training yourself not to, though. When I had a retul bike fit done it found that my knees track from side to side like this, and it's since been controlled to a certain extent by custom footbeds but not completely eliminated.

I agree that it looks like your hips are rocking a little, S&C, but it's difficult to see properly at that camera height.

So go and get a proper fit, or this will become a tortuous process, akin to dammit asking advice on components, plumbing or anything else.

So go and get a proper fit, or this will become a tortuous process, akin to dammit asking advice on components, plumbing or anything else.

But thanks all around. Some great advice given.

I'll be back though.....

Another quick test for saddle height, with crank arms parallel to seat tube try to rest your heel on the pedal at the bottom. If you can't reach it or its barely touching you are too high. Should be a slight bend in your knee.

You look to be a 'heel dropper' rather than a 'toe dropper' so even more relevant.

If you get too high you're using your calves and won't be able to recruit the power of dat ass your glutes and your core.

Another quick test for saddle height, with crank arms parallel to seat tube try to rest your heel on the pedal at the bottom. If you can't reach it or its barely touching you are too high. Should be a slight bend in your knee.

That method was popular into the 1960s but long discredited. Goniometer models are, however, a close relative that appears to produce OK positions.

LFGSS interwebz bikefit™ for the win.

LFGSS interwebz bikefit™

Totally free assessment, carrying out an on the spot analysis to determine that your bike is either

a. Too small

Or

b. Too big

There are no other options with this service.

That method was popular into the 1960s but long discredited. Goniometer models are, however, a close relative that appears to produce OK positions.

He said "quick test". The heel method is valid for a quick test of saddle height. I'll still use it for hire bikes, etc. when I don't have a tape measure handy.

Totally free assessment, carrying out an on the spot analysis to determine that your bike is either

a. Too small
Or
b. Too big
There are no other options with this service.

Surely LFGSS bike fit is a combo of..

Your shoes are WHAT colour?
Saddle angle is well off.
Slack chain.
UTFS.
?

Who could ask for more...

That method was popular into the 1960s but long discredited. Goniometer models are, however, a close relative that appears to produce OK positions.

Yeah those cunts at British Cycling are pure wastemen

You shouldn't be able to touch the floor with both feet when sitting on the saddle! An all too common myth and a hangover from your learner days. To set your saddle height correctly, sit on the bike and rotate the pedals until one of them is at the furthermost position from the saddle (i.e. in line with the seat tube). Your leg should be very slightly bent and you should be able to turn the pedals without stretching, pointing your toe or rocking your hips.

Maybe its me being a shorty. But the window between my legs hitting my gut, and my hips rocking is probably only a few mm.

I also find that after a stint out of the saddle. I tend to sit where I feel is right regardless of where the saddle is. So I just move it under my sit bones.

I put my cleats as far out as possible without causing shoe crank overlap, and so that they put the pedal axle just behind the ball of my foot.

The only thing that is not self selecting is my reach. Pretty sure its dialled. But I'm lowering the bars a bit still. So we'll see.

Basically I set my cleats. Then keep my multi tool in my jersey pocket for the first ride or so, adn dial stuff on the go.