Bike fit / correct riding position

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  • It was after reading Steve Hogg.

    And if it works for Hippy...

    If you think of the foot as lever (pivoting at the ankle) then the further forward the cleat is, the greater the leverage. So you are devoting more energy counteracting that leverage to stabilise the ankle: if you didn't, when you press on the pedal your heel would go down and the pedal would stay put.

    The old dogma of "ball of the foot over the pedal axle" made sense when people wore flexible, leather soled shoes (and still does if you're riding in trainers etc): otherwise your foot curls around the pedal, like a bird's does when landing on a telegraph wire.

    With modern, stiff soled shoes you can sit the foot anywhere on the pedal, rather than where it doesn't "hurt".

    Bearing this in mind, I can see how it would help Achilles tendon and calf muscle problems, as you would be putting less strain on them. I'd be wary of making an internet-diagnosis though, as there could be a number of different causes.

    I set my friend up the same on her TT bike and she has continued to improve: PB, CR and wins. I obviously wouldn't claim that this is the only reason (or even a significant one), but I would cautiously suggest that it hasn't held her back.

    Although you can't discount the possibility that she might be even faster, with a more conventional set-up :/

  • I was having some Achilles trouble on one side which was addressed with good moulded insoles and reducing the pedal float down to only a few degrees. Next steps should be strengthening wonky knee to improve stability. It was something of a revalation.

    I’d moved to speedplay and cleat extenders which had help lessen the effects but hadn’t really addressed the problem. Bike fit did away with the extenders. .

    Bike fit was pricey but so worth it.

  • Bike fits I find are worth it. However being quite newly back in the saddle want to get some riding under my belt otherwise I'll need another quite soon.

    How do I work out if I'm a toe or heel dropper!?

  • How do I work out if I'm a toe or heel dropper!?

    Turbo trainer and a camera.

  • Well I made the switch back in 2011/12 and I'm still using it on almost all my bikes.
    I was suffering pretty badly with Achilles tendonitis training for 24hrs. Since making the change I do not have this issue.

  • I think I will get the extenders to slam my cleats back further (And adjust saddle height to match). As this problem started in June when a fitter moved my cleats 10mm forward and still hasn't gone away I think a midfoot cleat should help to spare my calves.
    How long did it take for the achilles tendinopathy to clear?

  • Bit off an odd one though as the scale doesn't start at 0.
    To me that suggests it's connected to something. Haven't quite figured out what though.

  • "The head of S23 VCLS CF is fixed
    aluminium, while the S13 VCLS CF is full-carbon and
    allows infinite setback adjustment between 15 mm and
    35 mm."

    Being as your post doesn't go to an inline position, the scale doesn't start at zero

  • No idea why they would move cleats forward on anyone, especially when you're complaining of Achilles.

    I was riding every week regardless of pain. Probably sorted out inflammation to no NSAIDS level within fortnight. It took a month to adapt to the position anyway so I wasn't riding so hard.

  • Knee pain was my initial complaint and had always had the cleats slammed back. Fitter moved the cleats forward and bang - a week later I woke up with a crunchy/swollen achilles. That's good to hear it didn't take too long for you to recover- I think I'm gonna sell my PM and pay the bike whisperer a visit

  • Now this is gonna be vague, but any help will be appreciated.
    I'm having problems in my gentlemans area, feels like too much pressure, and occasionally on my hands/wrists. I've set my bike up so that my leg is slightly bent when pedal is at 6 o'clock and saddle is level. Had a look at the above Hogg link, tried the centre of bb to top of saddle measurements (Lemonds method), that would mean dropping my saddle 4cms, which seems a crazy amount.
    So I've dropped the saddle 10mm and moved it back a tad to take some pressure off my hands.
    Can't afford bike fit at the mo, so advice from those in the know would be greatly appreciated.
    Jon

  • I used to have that. Saddle too high was the cause indeed. Later, I had a pro biek fit and the saddle was moved about 10mm up, so I hesitate to think what it once was.

  • Your saddle sounds like it's too high.

    I double check your crotch-to-floor measurement, then go with the Lemond method as a start .

  • If you think your saddle is right, you saddle to bar drop may to too much.

  • Not pedalling hard enough, too much weight on saddle!

  • Anyone actually had a fit with Steve Hogg? I can pay several dollars to get one with him in Brissy.

  • Front or back of knee? Still seems odd moving cleats forward for a knee complaint.

  • Font of knee - I've had issues with patella tracking. It does it hindsight yeah. I wish the cleats weren't moved - it's left me with achilles tendinitis that's proving hard to kick

  • Recovery will depend on how much damage you've done and how old you are, how healthy you are and how much rehab you do. Mine was always rideable after a week with NSAIDs but if I continued I'd probably have fucked something properly and been off the bike a lot longer.

  • Yeah I took the Summer off after it happened, but really should have taken time off work (portering). Thankfully I have age on my side (23) so hopeful of a proper return to TTing come 2018.
    It's good to hear someone else has fully recovered from this problem though

  • Cheers all. Initial thoughts on this mornings commute was it seems better, but may have to shove saddle forward to original position, felt a little stretched.

  • Setback isn't the way to adjust reach issues imo. If you can consider a shorter stem.

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Bike fit / correct riding position

Posted by Avatar for Timmy2wheels @Timmy2wheels

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