Bike fit / correct riding position

Bars too low if anything I'd say. Pretty sure the front hub rule is bollocks tbh.

I'm guessing the point was to illustrate a person who due to injury or back problems is unable to ride with a longer stem?

Everyone is different. It's not a case of 'able' but instead 'most comfortable/natural'.

But talking of the pictures, it the Australian guy meant to an ideal set up?

They are all the ideal setup... for that rider.

It seems to me that he is in violation of the rule (of thumb) that you should not be able to see your hubs over the handlebars?

That's just a reference point. Rules >>>

Getting pain at the top of my left hip, to the extent that I was limping a bit yesterday. Seems to happen more/only after rides with lots of climbing out of the saddle. I suspect it's a cleat issue, any other suggestions?

My hip stuff doesn't show if I do a couple of k's running before riding - with some secondary school PE jump&fold exercises.

@umop3pisdn - Is on the road bike, or your TT bike?

Road bike. Typically everything hurts after I've ridden the TT bike.

The hubs over handlebar should rightly be ignored and never speak of again.

The hubs over handlebar should rightly be ignored and never speak of again.

bikes should be kept the right way up

Hey guy, as of 2015, who would you recommend for bike fitting in London? I was looking at Bespoke Cycling but the only review here on the forum isn't that good. Thanks for you help.

@debo: bike whisperer (not london but apparently the best and near enough) / cadence / the bike fit / condor / pearson etc...

@.gaz. thanks for the info, I eventually went to Cyclefit, it worked out better for me being close to work. Bike whisperer was top of the list but not easy to reach unfortunately. Thanks again.

Has anyone talked about how different pedal systems effect bike fit?

I've been trying to do some online fittings (on the off-chance it helps my fucked ITBs) and none of them seem to take into account pedal system height: I just (roughly) measured the overall 'stack-height' of my keos (contact point > spindle center + cleat + sole + insoles, etc) and it's 45mm.

The 'stack height' of my daily bike is approx 30mm less with platform pedals and trainers, which is obviously going to make a huge difference in terms of fit.

Do I need to add 45mm to what they recommend, or have they somehow guessed a figure and included it in their calculations?

no worries : )

Not sure about online fitting but when I had mine the fitting has been done taking into account the pedals, the cleats and the shoes I decided to go for and I'm talking about my daily bike. I just take shoes replacement with me. A good fit will look at the angle of your leg plus other indicator and derive the length from there.

Special offer of £125 instead of £195 for friends and family of the club members if anyone is keen.
http://www.pearsoncycles.co.uk/bike-fitting/

4.5cm? Do you ride in Spice Girl shoes?

not that high?

@debo Racer rosa cycles in Bishop Stortford. Fly in an Italian guy once a month for fits and are fantastic. Also include follow up adjustments and provides a good honest opinion.

Where can I find club member friend

Quick question to see whether anyone might be able to help.

I had a bike fit on my track bike about a month ago, and I've felt awesome since.

I bought a road bike last week to take part in some longer sportives, and so I bought the frame size with my bike fit measurements in mind. When I got the bike, I set up the saddle height and fore/aft. I went out for a 77 mile ride and from about 50 miles on I had bad mid-back pain, which I've never had before while riding.

When I got back, I put my bikes side by side to see if I could figure out what was different and therefore causing the pain. It turns out the reach on the roadbike is about 24mm shorter than my track bike. I assume that this meant my spine couldn't lie in a flat/neutral position and this is what caused the pain? Ordering a stem that is 20 or 30mm longer should help, right?

Additionally, I wanted to check my saddle - bar drop, but the problem is that I have 2 different bar types on each of the bikes. My track bike has bullhorns and my roadbike has drops. Should I set up the bar - saddle drop to be the same for the position on the drops, for the position on the hoods, or in the middle between the two?

Not a professional opinion but my 2c:

Your track bike likely has a steeper seat angle as well as numerous other differences from a typical road geometry. So its difficult to compare geometries from measurements like top tube lengths etc. Best course of action is to use the "stack" and "reach" measurements.

If I was you, I would ensure your saddle height (BB to top of saddle) and your saddle setback are identical between the two bikes. Then measure the distance from the tip of your saddle to your handlebars. (where you measure to on your handlebars you can choose depending on where you spend most of your time riding, so in my case it would be on the hoods, but usually fitters measure to the centreline of the stem to handlebar clamp point) You are happy on the track bike, so whatever you measure there, take the difference to the road bike and make up for it with a stem that replicates it. You can get stems of a wide variety of lengths, but 100mm to 130mm tends to be the norm.

If your track bike has bullhorns, I would set up the hoods of your road bars to have the same drop and reach as the part of your bullhorns you spend most of your time on, which I'm guessing is the curved parts at the front

Hope that makes sense.

Have you got a spirit level?

If not, time to purchase it.

If I was you, I would ensure your saddle height (BB to top of saddle) and your saddle setback are identical between the two bikes.

Specifically the distance between saddle nose to centre of BB horizontal (if using the same saddle).

One thing to bear in mind is that the cranks on the track bike might be shorter, so you'll have to take that into account when you measure from the BB.

If the track cranks are 165 and road bike are 170 (for example), the road bike's saddle would need to be 5mm lower to BB and 5mm further forward.

One thing to bear in mind is that the cranks on the track bike might be shorter, so you'll have to take that into account when you measure from the BB.

Not something to worry about really.