Bike fit / correct riding position

Posted on
Page
of 125
  • I'm wondering if the info I was sent was right as an XL frame would surely be huge (I'm 6ft 1 and have ridden 56/57cm frames in the past). I'll have a play with the calculator that you linked to!

    Mosquito is completely the wrong end of town for me so I'll try to pop into Moores to see the frame in the flesh.

  • Yeah, tricky to draw the number from scratch, however any bicycle shop that have a bikefit account can input those number and find the correct size, or an experience person with tape measure can do it on the spot.

  • I'm 6ft 1 and have ridden 56/57cm frames in the past).

    That make sense, what I find hard is trying to get the stack correct.

  • Had my psyhio today. Turns out my right hip has poor muscle and flexibility,which is causing havoc with the knee. Reason is from an accident years ago. Also upper and lower back have poor flexbility. On the plus side my hamstings are goodd. Not sure what it means other than I need a proper bike fit.

  • For when you're never quite set on one position ( noeuph )

    Adjust all the things

  • Just to update.

    I had a bike fit done by Ronan at Pearson's in Sheen. Took 3 hours and could easily have done with another half an hour.

    Thankfully the bike as about the right size, but need a new stem (lower), inline post (to get the saddle forward) and shorter cranks, the latter not imperative but necessary.

    In summary after 3 years of trying to sort myself out, it was useful to get an independent perspective.

    The coffee was superb and he was incredibly helpful and used the numbers to point stuff out to me, while using his experience and knowledge to get me in the right place.

    Shame I need so many parts but will see how it all comes together in few weeks.

  • So I bought new Speedplay Frog (like zero but two bolt, all the float) pedals and cleats, having used worn ones for the past two or so years. Fitted them before doing two back to back 100s over the Easter weekend. The rides were fine, but this week I've had pain on the outside of my right knee, worst when riding fixed on flat pedals and re-straps. As far as I can tell the cleats are in exactly the same position as the old ones, and I've been riding the bike all winter.

    I hadn't done a 100 miles since last summer, though weekly 100km rides all winter... is it simply too much too soon, or do I need to go back to worn cleats to avoid wonky knees?

  • Sorry to hear that. From what my physio told me knees always react quite delayed.

  • Does anyone have any bike fitting or purchasing experience with http://www.racerrosabicycles.co.uk ?

    Looking at a fit with them next week and they use the old fashioned way as opposed to the Retul computer fit which I have had a bit of a nightmare with.

  • I had it done by them , Giuseppe is a super experienced guy.
    He correct my position quite dramatically, longer stem ,new saddle , stem lower about 2 cm and seat lower a bit .
    I was surprised by all of that but on a first long ride I've noticed that my sore shoulder is not sore , no pain in my knee and I could go faster !
    Have fun up there

  • Had one on Saturday with Simon, he explained everything really well. Made a few adjusts to the bike and cleats nothing major. One of the thing to come out of it was that my legs and back muscles are incredible tight which is pulling my knees side out of line. So he sent me a load of exercises to do in order to try and resolve that issue.

    Had a quick try out of the new setup couldn't tell from such a short ride, but did notice the cleats position felt a little more natural.

  • I'll probably regret asking this here - yesterday I set up a new set of shoes (Bonts), I followed the Hogg technique, then did a two hour ride last night. They felt ok at the time, but today my calves feel like they were working harder than normal. Should I move the cleats forward or back?

  • Personally, I'd move them more towards the mid-foot.

  • Though that's probably wrong because I haven't spent £999 on a beik fit.

  • Moving them back reduces the involvement of the calves and Achilles. It's why I went mid-foot, to get rid of chronic Achilles tendonitis.

  • Definitely wrong.

  • Just had a little look - plenty of room to move them back. Cheers.

  • if you are moving the cleats you may need to adjust saddle fore/aft too

  • Yeah I'm aware of that..

    Though I don't think I will - given how my calves feel, it's more likely that they're just in a different place (compared to my other shoes) and that the saddle is where it should be, whereas the cleats are not. I only used the Hogg system as a starting point because it's so hard to translate fit from one brand of shoes to another.

  • Definitely move them back.
    My achilles/calf issues are aggravated by the slightly forward cleat position I use when riding fixed, or off-road. To avoid overlap.
    On the road bike they are slammed back, and I have zero issues.

    The achilles ages the worse of all Your tendons apparantly. Plus it hates the Cold. As an old man living in Norway, I'm finding my achilles tendons have grown to hate me.

  • giro are tending to place the cleat attachment further back on their mtb shoes, as they have found people are more stable with the pedals more toward midfoot

  • On the road bike they are slammed back, and I have zero issues.

    Plus, I've found that since taking up running about 5 years ago I've barely had any achilles troubles.

  • and reduce height.

  • You wash your mouth out with soap right this minute!

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Bike fit / correct riding position

Posted by Avatar for Timmy2wheels @Timmy2wheels

Actions