Time Trial / Time Trialling / TT

I was thinking of buying a smaller road frame - but then I saw this: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/frames-frames-tt-ribble-tt-frame/ribbfrat600
For £130 it's pretty good, and would get me the right position. I'm sure it's harsh as anything, but I'll only really be doing 10's so it doesn't really matter.

I've ridden alu frames over Paris-Roubaix and Flanders courses. I wouldn't worry about any perceived 'harshness', especially in a 10. That is mega cheap. I might buy one for my new TT commuter :)

I rode my 100 quid alu Canyon frame for Flanders this year.. 25's, 32h rims, absolutely fine :)

F&F for £203 if you get the columbus forks Ribble have. Nice.

Am I going out too soft? - http://app.strava.com/activities/71495831
It doesn't make sense to me that I'd be able to finish a 23:45 going uphill at 26mph+. It could be the method that other regular riders of that course have but I've previously had a 2min man catch me on the 6th mile only for me to pull away from him for 15seconds. I've also had people say that they've been catching me to the turn then can't make any ground on me afterwards.

Hard to tell without spending time in a lab estimating your aerobic threshold is in terms of output watts by monitoring lactic acid levels, blood sugar levels, oxygen consumption...

By "pull away from him for 15 seconds" do you mean you end up only losing 1:45?
Could be someone heavier but more aero getting an easy downhill ride to the turn but not having the output to beat you on the way back.

When was the last time you did a TT and actually hit your limit before the last mile? Do that, then ease off each week until you hit it with 10 metres to go.

F&F for £203 if you get the columbus forks Ribble have. Nice.

Nice.

I think I paid £500 for the Stealth TT frameset. It's now maybe £400?
I guess it's done me pretty well but I'm not sure I'd recommend one, other than for their price.

Are Planet X frames designed around guesswork of what should be aero and current trends?
This looks tempting - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/FRPXEX/planet_x_exocet_carbon_tt_frame_and_seatpost

Hard to tell without spending time in a lab estimating your aerobic threshold is in terms of output watts by monitoring lactic acid levels, blood sugar levels, oxygen consumption...

By "pull away from him for 15 seconds" do you mean you end up only losing 1:45?
Could be someone heavier but more aero getting an easy downhill ride to the turn but not having the output to beat you on the way back.

When was the last time you did a TT and actually hit your limit before the last mile? Do that, then ease off each week until you hit it with 10 metres to go.

Not exactly difficult. Next race, go out harder than you normally do and see if you can hold it. Either you will or you won't. No need for testing - the race is the test. It's only a 10.. not like you only get one shot at it per year.. :)

As for the heavy guy, more aero thing, I often have people pass me on a hill only for me to pass them again on the descent or flat. Gets annoying some times as I have to put in more effort than I'd want in order to keep away.

Are Planet X frames designed around guesswork of what should be aero and current trends?
This looks tempting - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/FRPXEX/planet_x_exocet_carbon_tt_frame_and_seatpost

No idea. I'm sure they will sprout something about CFD processes but who knows? Exocets are meant to be a bit of a pain to setup.

It's my understanding that there isn't a frame available sub-£2k that will actually give you any significant aero advantages?

I'm probably wrong.

I'd rather spend the money on coaching.

It's not about the frame, it's about the position you can get into on it.

that's what I thought.

are there any good guides around for building a TT bike on the cheap? I already have some bits kicking about and I don't need to buy wheels, so I'm considering cobbling something together slowly over the winter.
What is the deal with frame sizing - go a bit smaller/shorter than you would for road so you get the right elbow bend and a low position?

I'm hopefully taking inspiration from this thread over the winter. Again, just struggling to work out what frame dimensions would best match my current (geared) TT bike.

^^ So better to spend what money I have on getting bars and stuff right?

It's not about the frame, it's about the position you can get into on it.

Due to work I don't get that many chances at the 10. Also if I really was to start taking it seriously then I'd spend some money on a computer etc and look at my power output etc. I guess I should just resign myself to the fact that I have a shit job and there's no point taking things seriously until I get a better job that gives me time to train
As you can see from the Strava it's not exactly a simple downhill tot the turn then uphill home. So merely saying they're getting an easy ride to the turn doesn't compute.

I think there's rules about course design that would require 'some' pedaling to get to the finish :)

Get a cheap 2nd hand frame. And then build the bike around that with other 2nd hand bits, bits can be moved frame to frame - generally.

What I did. The frame was just a means to an ends, I needed something that fitted me (most things would given my off the shelf stature) and wasn't completely shit. I actually found something with a sweet groupset, added bonus.
I then spent the rest of my money on wheels and a saddle that doesn't make my arse hurt.

In fairness too, the first frame you get will help you understand what size frame you really want/need (stack/reach) so you'll probably get rid of it after a while for something better/better fitting, unless you're lucky and get it right first time.

So just get something that you can afford 2nd hand and don't go crazy. It wont make you faster, but use it to learn what position will make you faster.

TLDR: Hippys right, position is all that matters.

Get a cheap 2nd hand frame. And then build the bike around that with other 2nd hand bits, bits can be moved frame to frame - generally.

What I did. The frame was just a means to an ends, I needed something that fitted me (most things would given my off the shelf stature) and wasn't completely shit. I actually found something with a sweet groupset, added bonus.
I then spent the rest of my money on wheels and a saddle that doesn't make my arse hurt.

In fairness too, the first frame you get will help you understand what size frame you really want/need (stack/reach) so you'll probably get rid of it after a while for something better/better fitting, unless you're lucky and get it right first time.

So just get something that you can afford 2nd hand and don't go crazy. It wont make you faster, but use it to learn what position will make you faster.

TLDR: Hippys right, position is all that matters.

That is pretty much what I would have have said. Basically buy second hand frame and parts, and hope you can get a good position.

The only things I bought new for my TT bike were the chain, sprockets, cables, tubs, and mdcc-tester's neat Cane Creek headset cap thingy. Everything else was a combo of bought second hand or already owned.

So many MAMILS out there buying nice end kit and then selling it cheap.
My bike had been ridden <300miles and was perfect. Got a bargain.

TT forum is a good place to buy used stuff.

^ That.
Bought all my stuff from there. Not had the slightest issue.

Is it likely I'll get a decent TT frame + fork for around £200 second hand? The Ribble still seems like a good deal to me.

what size do you need? There is a ribble on ebay