Time Trial / Time Trialling / TT

TriRig Alpha Classic base bar with the original Shiv extensions.

http://aerogeeks.com/2015/08/10/tririg-alpha-classic-review/

Have plans to try "high hands" or at least tweak the front-end more but we'll see.

TriRig Alpha Classic

IIRC, that bar (with a Sigma stem) was only faster than the Ventus Mk1 if you didn't fit brake levers to the TriRig. Based on that, I'd be surprised if anybody could measure a difference between your bar and a Ventus 2 if both bars had the same levers/risers/extensions.

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Actually I think I remember looking at those graphs. I've had the bars for years so forget most details now. I'm sure there's most cost effective ways of removing 2 grams of drag from the system. (no, shedding 20kg before next Aug will not happen)

removing 2 grams of drag

Tested at 30mph, the differences will be smaller at lower speeds.
At your 25mph target speed, 1g≈0.1W

Oh no I'm definitely heading out at 30mph and holding it there. So those bars will make a massive difference...

I'm definitely heading out at 30mph and holding it there

360 miles in 12h is going to be easy when CTT make us all drive cars because all their other brilliant ideas have made fuck all difference to rider safety.

360? Not with the car traffic we have these days. Thankfully the fuel duty has been frozen for another year while trains are more expensive so, you know, drive everywhere. Soon enough this place will be underwater and you won't need lights, you'll need fucking pontoons.

In the interim best look for a racing club with fluorescent kit.

Very long shot but before I get Sigma to supply a new one, anyone have a P5 fork, the non-UCI one for sale?

I have Magura brakes all the bits for converting the front end of my P2.

look for a racing club with fluorescent kit

One is not obliged to wear club kit in solo TTs, and Velotec have plenty of hi-viz in their pret a porter collection :)

Maybe we need fluoro kit, because even with helmets and a front light, this bike is completely invisible to the naked eye

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Well I certainly am unable to see the socks 😂

Should have gone to specsavers, I can see socks on both riders

Hey TT gang, thanks for the saddle recommendations a while back. So far the Antares 5 is OK, but I havent done longer than an hour on the trainer. The goal race is 90km (doing the bike leg of a tri relay) with 1000m climbing so probs gonna be on that bike for the better part of 2.5-3h. I'll do some longer rides on it once Im back in London in jan. In the meantime I'll need some more spacers under the tt bars, this bike is suuuper low...

On another note. Disc wheel opinions? Not a must, but always wanted one, got a TT bike, might as well. Had a zipp 909 set that I bought like 12 years ago but flipped the disc and kept the 404 front. Whats the opinion on the Corima / Pro-lite / Planet X / FFWD / etc discs that are going for around £400 used?

I’ve got a ffwd tubular disc wheel I could sell. I’m just about to board a flight back to the uk so pm me if you are interested and I’ll dig out some details.

got a TT bike, might as well

Check the regs if you're mainly doing Tri, not all races permit discs. Not much to choose between any of the monobloc discs, they should all be pretty tough. If buying second hand, make sure they go up to 11, it's only going to get harder to find 11-speed freehubs to convert older 8/9/10-speed wheels.

Good luck with the training for this. Your saddle will also get more comfortable when you raise your bars. I'm pretty sure discs are allowed in all uk tri events. My last race of this season was really windy and the Marshall checked I'd be ok with it. Handling wise it was fine but when i came in to transition there were 15-20 high end disc equipped bikes on the floor and i had to dig mine out of a pile luckily it just took a scrape to the bars when it went down but could have been worse and it cost me time digging it out and checking it over before i set off. Just something to be aware of even when discs are allowed. GBJ is right about the older style discs and a puncture on a tub will wreck your race. £400 should get you a decent one though and if its a hilly course you don't want a 1400g lump out back and if the roads are going to be particularly rough try not to get one that rides really hard or you'll find yourself backing off the gas on the rough stuff. I've got a Citec which is super light for a disc even though its an older profile. The speed difference between a disc and a deep section isn't huge so if you've already got a deep rear wheel a fast suit might save you more watts or just buy both £££

Regarding the 8/9/10sp vs 11sp thing, If theres a really good deal on a 10sp one, I would take it and just use one of my 11sp cassettes on it that has been turned on a lathe to fit on a 10sp freehub.

With this event in particular, I should be alright. It will be the Challenge St Polten race in Austria. Looking at the videos overwhelming majority (...that made it into the video) went with deep front, disc rear.
Not gonna lie, I also just think it looks cool and it goes whooosh whoosh. :) The plan is to bring my 50mm wheelset + disc and decide on the day. I'd do some training rides on the disc to get used to it of course.

The first 20-30km is a false flat downhill (-0.5%), closed course on a motorway. Should be fun. Then some hilly parts, but overall only 3 proper climbs in it.

About the clincher/tubular thing. I thought I'd carry a tufo extreme sealant with me and a co2 pump. Im not sure I could put the sealant in on a disc wheel without peeling off the tyre thought? Or I guess I'd need an L shaped valve adaptor anyway if Im gonna pump it, depending on the disc. Any first hand experience input on this would be appreciated!
Also I havent got a single puncture in the last 3 years that wasnt on the commuter (passing through glass shards on the reg, thx shoreditch crowd), or my own doing (pinching the tube on a wheel).

Another topic: Hydration? Ive got normal bottle mounts on the frame, but considering either one that goes between the TT extensions, or on the saddle behind. I havent heard great things on the behind-the-saddle solution from triathlete friends (dropping bottles, have to sit up to take out etc).

Edit: As for skinsuit and helmet, Ive got a tight fitting LFGSS Milltag roadsuit with short sleeves (still almost until elbows), and a Giro Air attack helmet. As far as Im aware this is already a lot better than just a regular bib+jersey and a normal helmet, not looking to upgrade these just now.

You sound pretty sorted then. I've been lucky with tubs and 3 out of the 4 punctures i had i was able to fix with a can of pit stop but I'd imagine that a bit fiddly and messy to use with a crack pipe adapter but have seen zefal and at least one other with a hose attachment which could work with a disc as long as the valve hole isn't tiny. Your skinsuit will indeed far better than a regular Jersey/bib combo and your air attack better than a regular helmet if your not going all in. For hydration I've got a torhans on one tri bike and a profile aero on the other both are good and i set my bottles up and cut the straws to a length so if my bottom lip is hovering just above the straw my head is in its proper aero position with out having to think about it. The Torhans has a much softer straw which is much gentler on my mouth if i hit a bump. 4 bottles should be fine and any bottle/bottles behind the saddle are best used for refilling the BTA bottle via the flap on the top rather than regularly and inconveniently drinking from. I've got a elite pave cage out back with the ratchet dial to lock it down otherwise they can rattle out or just fly out if you hit a pothole. As your doing just the bike leg it won't be impractical if you want to wear calf guards/overshoes or aero gloves for some extra cheap aero gains as well.

Slvlss chat...

Some awesome tips and tricks here, thanks a lot! Overshoes and gloves noted.

I've got a elite pave cage out back with the ratchet dial

This is very clever. Will look into the options you mentioned.
Not going all in. For now.

I've found Camelbak podium bottles work best for rear carriers because the are seem slightly bulged compared to a standard Elite bottle and with the jet nozzle its a little quicker than a regular bottle with way less sticky spillage

4 bottles?!

There are aid stations every 15k or so in most long distance races, I’ve never bought into the idea of carrying 3 spare bottles… extra drag and 2kg weight? No thanks!

If i do eventually setup to full iron I'd have to use aid stations and maybe because i used to do long mtb stuff before i got into triathlon i just got into the habit of being self sufficient. I even wear a hydration vest on the run as i know what nutrition i need and can take little sips as and when rather than have to wait for the aid station then stop and chug 3 cups of whatever is on offer. I always do half iron distance with 4 bottles one between the bar, 2 Elite aero bottles and one behind the saddle 2 kg extra but on a flattish course the weight matters less and its not 2 kg the whole way round. I've even done a couple of middle distance races where there's only been one aid station at the 45k turn around and all riders were required to have at least 2 full bottles before setting off plus covid restrictions have messed with aid station arrangements at some races. I've done sprints and Olympic distance where aid stations were removed altogether due to partial restrictions still being in place. The positioning and type of bottles minimise the drag and my BTA actually tested slightly faster than without. I've managed 4:21 for a half and always have one of the fastest bike splits of the day even in the overall not just my age group where i almost always podium whatever the distance on or off road and i think never having to stop or worry about having enough nutrition definitely helps my times and reduces race stress. Just head down smash away and when i need something its there. All of my best results have come when I've had my smoothest most efficient mistake free races not when I've had my best power so fail to prepare and all that. I still make silly little mistakes often within transition but sometimes with equipment choice even now that cost to me important places which really annoy me but because I'm at the the pointy end these races so i really obsess over those details maybe i need to get a grip but i'm sure all the testers on here can relate to that feeling and slowtwitch forum makes this thread look casual. Geeking out over the small stuff is half the fun sometimes and the other half being setting arbitrary targets for yourself than no one gives a shit about and letting it consume you. A couple of mates of mine do the team GB age group stuff and they asked me to help them on the bike both have improved and annoyingly one of them is going a bit quicker than me since but thats all good i actually train better when I'm a bit pissed off and i want me to get faster not the guys I'm racing to get slower. I'm definitely better with carrot than stick for motivation.

Need some advice from the hive mind. About to change crankset which means new 1x chainring(s), and specifically the gearing for target TT's next season. I've listed out all those I intend to enter and roughly what kind of times I think I can expect, assuming average conditions. For fast events this season gone, I ran a 58t and was mostly in the middle third of the 11-25 block, although at times toward the top.

Does it make sense to buy two chainrings, one for 'fast' courses and one for 'slower'? I'm only doing short distances up to 50 miles.

Secondly, in terms of speccing the sizing, does using Bikecalc or similar to work this out the way to go? For flat, fast courses at 95rpm, to keep speeds within the 15t 16t 17t cogs I'd need a 62t front ring which seems enormous...which makes me think I'm doing something wrong!

62t front ring which seems enormous

It's only the same change from 58 as a one tooth difference at the sprocket, i.e. 58/14=62/15 and 58/15=62/16 give or take 0.2%