Riding in winter

want more 'raped by winter' type photos...........

also filthy bikes, coated in black salt, dirt, grease, mud, dog, evening standards, the works...... Should there be a therad for this particular genre of filth?

you're in that thread...

I've just got some Schwalbe CX Pro tyres, they're 28/30c and should fit normal frame clearance.

What do you think is a doable gear ratio in thick snow?
I haven't changed from my usual 75 and it is killing me. If I make it through the winter I'm going to be able to pull a truck in spring. Is 65 more realistic?

I think the average ratio on the forum is 67.

Issit? I've been thinking my 76 is a bit high.

Nice tyres Ed. Let us know how they go.

Think Clefty used to run those, and she have some positive review about it, but nothing beat huge slick tyres (47c) on snow though.

Gearing usually down to individual's choices really, I like to spin a little bit more (68GI), try one size down and see what happen?

...but nothing beat huge slick tyres (47c) on snow though...
For snow, you want some sort of knobbles for extra grip. Pure slicks will compact it down and give you nothing rather than biting in and pulling. For sheet ice then slicks are maybe better - the more rubber contact area you can get the more chance of not going sideways.

PS: I've just worked out what these gear inch things are all about. It seems I'm running 56GI (26:12 on 26" wheels). Do you guys on 70+GI just never climb steep hills or am I really that bad? I thought I was doing well getting up steep stuff without gears too!

Big difference climbing on road compared to off.

PS: I've just worked out what these gear inch things are all about. It seems I'm running 56GI (26:12 on 26" wheels). Do you guys on 70+GI just never climb steep hills or am I really that bad? I thought I was doing well getting up steep stuff without gears too!

By 26" wheel bicycles, you mean MTB? if so, big difference between MTB and road.

Also don't forget to account for tyres size, says a 2.35 tyres give you58GI, whether a skinny small 1.25 tyres give you 52GI.

Have you worked out that GI actually tells you the equivalent front wheel size for an ordinary bicycle?

Ed, what's happened to your avatar?

Joy.

Ed, what's happened to your avatar?

I fancy a change, had the same avatar for the past two years after all.

Ed has joined the "blue man group"

I've just got some Schwalbe CX Pro tyres, they're 28/30c and should fit normal frame clearance.

Tempted to get some of these myself for winter, stick them on the charge plug with flat bars job done!

Sorry to slightly derail, but still on the topic of GI's. I use an app that just calculates it, and the difference between eg. 32 and 32c is a lot. What's the difference in tyres?

I will be dropping a gear as you say Ed, I've got a f/f hub so will have both as the other half (bio-physics engineer) reckons higher gear is better for strength and stamina in preparing for our 2 month tour. I'm arguing that I'd go a lot quicker on a smaller GI will will therefore make me fitter. A constant argument in our house.

On topic, I'm riding a Kona Dew Drop, my commute is awesome.

lovely 3 hour ride from stratford up into epic forest yesterday and back
virgin light fluffy snow hard crust underneath and the odd mud hole / wallow but fantastic riding
i leant loads and the tyres gripped the compacted white powder snow ... no issues

65 is more realistic, easier to deal with on the hill too.

I think the average ratio on the forum is 67.

Is it? asked somebody when i first came on and they said mid 70's?
Mine works out at 77, pretty steep and got to tackle muswell hill daily :/

Also MOAH filth shots if you please..... :D

Sorry to slightly derail, but still on the topic of GI's. I use an app that just calculates it, and the difference between eg. 32 and 32c is a lot. What's the difference in tyres?

I will be dropping a gear as you say Ed, I've got a f/f hub so will have both as the other half (bio-physics engineer) reckons higher gear is better for strength and stamina in preparing for our 2 month tour. I'm arguing that I'd go a lot quicker on a smaller GI will will therefore make me fitter. A constant argument in our house.

On topic, I'm riding a Kona Dew Drop, my commute is awesome.

I always thought the logic was that you push a smaller gear through winter so you get fitter/stay warmer and it means you will be more likely have sufficient power in your legs when the elements are putting more against you. Pushing a bigger gear in colder temps is more likely to give you an injury I think, colder muscles work more efficiently but it increases the chance of injury/muscle strain. Just because you'll be lugging stuff around when you're touring doesn't mean you need more power (I assume you're touring geared) because you'll be able to shift so you're at a comfortable cadence.

Someone may be along to correct me but that's how I see it.

I'm currently pushing 73GI and that seems to suit me quite well for winter (usually ride 85ish)

Have you worked out that GI actually tells you the equivalent front wheel size for an ordinary bicycle?
So what counts an an 'ordinary bike'?

I haven't measured my wheel circumference exactly, I'm using one of those webapp things I found a link to elsewhere on the forum. It has an entry for '26x2.125 (54-559)' which is exactly what I've got.

Re climbing, I'm talking about tarmac. I agree that off road is another matter entirely and I'm thinking I might have to switch back to gears for that. But there is a fairly steep road near where I live that has me stood out of the saddle and pulling my bars like I'm going to bend them in order to get enough push on the pedals to reach the crest. Admittedly, I didn't make it up at all first time I tried it single speed. So I have certainly improved (which was the whole point of switching to ss), but that was over a year ago and it's still an absolute bugger of a climb now.

Re snow, one thing I would definitely recommend is not using hard soled SPD shoes on ice! Why do they make the tread on those things out of a really hard plastic that gives no grip whatsoever? In any other pair of shoes I can quite easily walk on ice, in my cycling shoes all I can do is skate!

I always thought the logic was that you push a smaller gear through winter

I meant in general, sorry. Wrong thread I know.

Its easier to keep the power delivery to the tyres contact patch smooth, at lower GI. This means you are less likely to skidd.

You are also probably running slower tyres, over less than ideal surfaces, and carryig more weight (my winter tyes weigh 1 fecking Kg each).

But yes. I can also see the benifits to maintainng a higher cadense in colder conditions.

In other news, the winter commute was the most horrible yet and I feel like I'm going to be sick.
Still better than the bus though.

So what counts an an 'ordinary bike'?

Ordinary as in 'penny farthing' as opposed to 'safety' bicycle with a diamond frame.

Ordinaries were fixed and the gear you pulled was determined by your inside leg measurement, circumference of the large driving wheel gave you gear inches.

Ordinary as in 'penny farthing' as opposed to 'safety' bicycle with a diamond frame.

Ordinaries were fixed and the gear you pulled was determined by your inside leg measurement, circumference of the large driving wheel gave you gear inches.

^ an Ordinary hasn't any gear. The pedals are attached to the front wheel hub. This is direct drive.

Gear Inches are a measure of the size of wheel you'd need for a direct drive equivalent for one complete rotation of the pedals.