Correct track bike size for me?

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  • ... The most important measurement is the top tube length, which is very difficult to calculate.

    Does anyone agree with this Bob of Bob's Garage on FGG that top tube lenght, or rather distance to handlebars, should be the lenght of your underarm plus outstreched hand?


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  • Does anyone agree with this Bob of Bob's Garage on FGG that top tube lenght, or rather distance to handlebars, should be the lenght of your underarm plus outstreched hand?

    i just tested this, and on my two most comfortable bikes my arm fits perfectly
    and on the uncomfortable one that hurts my back it doesnt, must be time for a change

  • The most important measurement is the top tube length, which is very difficult to calculate. It is just as dependant on riding style and flexibility, as it is on height.

    i disagree, the most important measurement is the 'effective' top tube.
    because of the different angle top tubes and seat tube angles the ETT measurement is far more useful when sizing bikes.

  • Does anyone agree with this Bob of Bob's Garage on FGG that top tube lenght, or rather distance to handlebars, should be the lenght of your underarm plus outstreched hand?

    what a crock of shite. if i used that method i would have to shorten the cockpit by about 7cm!

    theories, old wives tales and something you read on the internet somewhere are no substitute to being fitted properly by people who know what they are doing.

  • nope. I've ridden a reeeeeeally comfortable (yes, subjectivity included) TT bike which had a faaaarken long top tube and long aero bars.

  • I'm six foot two, and I ride a 53cm frame...I use it mostly for tricks and short distance commuting but did the bridges ride on it comfortably last night (although I was pretty knackered by the end of it!)

  • what a crock of shite. if i used that method i would have to shorten the cockpit by about 7cm!

    theories, old wives tales and something you read on the internet somewhere are no substitute to being fitted properly by people who know what they are doing.

    no it's just a fair estimation. you forget that most people don't ride bikes that are appropriately sized. for most people its a fair estimation (as long as appropriately labelled as such)

    the second part of the post I agree with, but then fitting usually costs money.

  • the length of the cockpit is your arm as pictured, but its meant to be over the bars. (as in the end of the stem)
    that is a very rough estimation and it works well.
    There are a number of other factors, and there are plenty of systems you can use on the web.
    have a look at Wrench Science.

  • eyebrows you @ IC? which dept? i assume ur in 4th year? done your dissertation yet?

  • Does anyone agree with this Bob of Bob's Garage on FGG that top tube lenght, or rather distance to handlebars, should be the lenght of your underarm plus outstreched hand?

    'it's not a hard and fast rule but gets you in the ballpark'

    thats what the man bob says in his video

  • eyebrows you @ IC? which dept? i assume ur in 4th year? done your dissertation yet?

    IC= Imperial?
    no, not there but I've done my dissertation: just over 4,000 low quality words, and yes 4th year -biochem.

    how bout you?

  • I'm 180.5cm x81cm inseam I used to ride a 56cm with 27inch wheels. Now with 700c wheels I ride a 57-58cm. I can stretch out a little more. The other thing to consider is that if your stand over is adequate to protect the jewels you can always adjust with a different stem length. Frankly it all comes down to not leaving the boys on the top tube and your overall comfort. Go to the bike shop and try out different frame sizes.
    Pick a bike that feels good to you, and ride it like you stole it.

  • IC= Imperial?
    no, not there but I've done my dissertation: just over 4,000 low quality words, and yes 4th year -biochem.

    how bout you?

    yup. I'm there, 2nd year chem eng and the library has become some people's second home. March used to be such a nice time of year. thinking of starting an IC polo thread, there seem to be a fair few of us and I can't make most of the polos but I'm free on Weds afternoons.

  • Resurrected

  • 50 cm for me then but that disregards geometry does the article above mean 50 square frames?

    My Ciocc is 49.5x51 CTC and feels fine but 1 cm longer may be OK.

    Track bike that would be the max TT I'd say due to deep drops...I'd go 1 cm shorter.
    I need a good guess as somebody will have a look for me at a jumble none of the darn things here in Northern Ireland...;(

  • seems that the conssensus is that you ride a smaller frame,

    Back in the old days when road bikes had a fist full of post.. But today.. in the era of Ergopower/STI and riding on the hoods... Track frame should be selected larger than road! Track position is to ride in the drops and the drops are much deeper than today's road bars which have become increasingly shallow ...

  • Hi EdwardZ my Ciocc is from the fistful of seatpost days, do I still go a size up compared to it?

    Should I got 52 top tube VS 51? Or even 53?

  • Hi EdwardZ my Ciocc is from the fistful of seatpost days, do I still go a size up compared to it?

    No if you are comfortable on the road and have downtube shifters--- as in the day. Modern track is a bit smaller than old-school road... How much.. really depends. Used to be that one really wanted to get frames as small as possible to increase stiffness as Reynolds 531DB and other similar steels--- the best of their day--- were pretty darn flexy. Bad enough on the road but on the track Modern OS tubes and Monocoques designs are quite stiff.. Frame flex is no longer a major issue so a size variable in that equation can be easily dropped...

    Should I got 52 top tube VS 51? Or even 53?

    With modern frames and sizing top-tube length tend to mean little.. First we have differences in seat-tube angle.. then we have differences in head-tube length.. Do the math.. The longer the seat-tube the longer the top-tube without adding anything substantive to it.. On the track what matters is the position of bars (height difference between drops and saddle), height of the saddle and distance from saddle to bars.. The lower the bars the less reach is needed. The limiting factor is personal flexibility and statistically the angle of the knee and hips at the top and bottom of the stroke..

    A good starting point would be be lift your road position over the track..

  • Tx! Ciocc comfy so a modern track should have a similar size for me so a 50 frame. It's unfortunate the Belfast track has no roof and is only staffed Thursday nights...

    RE vintage track frame I need to size one too, going to do a 60-70s English build once I find a frame. So, from the "fistful of seatpost" era. Do I want to get a frame in the same size as Ciocc?

  • Eh question answer I guess no you silly Billy: Ciocc road 50x51 76 my legs measured about 78.5 on socks so 79.5 on shoes

    I covet a square 52x52.5 track frame. But it's in France so can exactly try it. No nuts due to extended femaleness. So that frame is too high for defs Jwestland don't do it?

  • Go home JWestland, you're drunk

  • I wish. It's annoyingly hard to find smaller track frames unless modern and ugly or custom for £££

    Top tube length is fine were it 50x52.5...

    Well thered always evilbay and Hilary stone as so far nothing up on lfgss either. Yip maybe drunk once I start thinking of these options...! ;)

  • Lol that's blocked on talkmobile. For "bike porn" reasons no doubt...Me so funny will check tomorrow on PC

    Tx been looking at NJS too but prohibitive shipping alas. A shithot makino on 8pilgrims shop on eBay has been asking "buy me...buy me..." but £100 shipping to uk :(

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Correct track bike size for me?

Posted by Avatar for Van_Damage @Van_Damage

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