Which Groupset?

Also Rideworks:
https://rideworks.cc/product-category/bottom-brackets/

Bizarre, contradictory and incomprehensible component choices from @amey? Well there's a first.

I am just going with the recommendation of my frame-builder but yeah ..

Next question; probably for @Dick .. to move this groupset to another bike I'll need to re-bleed, get new hose etc. What do I need?

4 of these

and this hose

Anything else?

Giant camden had some in a while back on the shop floor.

Bleed kit, if you don't have one already. The syringe with the hose on it, and the little plastic cup/reservoir to go on the shifter. And some mineral oil.

And if you're following @hippy's suggestion of an angle grinder, don't bother with some noncey 4.5 inch electric model like in the picture. Get a 12 inch petrol one. Like this.

Petrol and brake fluid? tut tut think of the kittens!

have the bleed kit, angle grinder already bought since hippy posted that pic, dunno what for but I have it.

Shimano brakes use mineral oil rather than DOT brake fluid. Just make sure the kittens don't get at the petrol and all will be well.

Mine don't. Mine use a blend of mineral, DOT, purple haze, a pinch of meth and a dollop of 5% Fage.

Buy the hoses with the banjos already on them, corresponding to whichever banjo you use, if your calipers have banjo's...

If not just make sure youve got all the connectors.

Shimano re-hosing and bleedingis a pile of piss compared to fucking SRAM.

no banjos, flat mount, thank you xoxo

the confusion was mainly BH-59 and BH-90 .. care to comment @snottyotter ?

if you’re using the standard r785 shifters then don’t waste the money on BH-90 cos you won’t get the high-pressure GAINZ that come with that hose and 8070/9170 shifters.

Get whichever ones they were designed to use, or cantis.

or cantis

<3

Hey buyers, what's the best price on r7000?

Say I want to put a groupset on a brand new frame with "Disc only. I.S mount. Max rotor size – 180mm front, 160mm rear". Which way to look? Is there a best practice to follow? Just shell out for the entire groupset? Try to find everything separately?

Generally it's cheaper to buy the whole groupset but sometimes, ie. if you already own some of the parts, it makes more sense to buy individual components. Some people buy entire bikes and do groupset swaps then sell off the other frame. Really depends how much time you have, how much space you have and exactly which parts you need for the build.

Thanks for the reply! I have about a thousand tabs open right now. Should also do some actual work, but oh well.

It'll be a second bike so no hurry. Doing some renovation at the moment plus a baby incoming so bike building will be slow. I have no spare parts lying around so might as well buy the entire groupset. Or a frame and swap everything. Argh, should read up more.

Does also depend on the build. Both my Di2 bikes were built up using individually sourced parts, which is a pain but I just didn't need all the parts in a groupset for either bike. There should be a list of parts you need in this thread. Basically with Di2 it's shifters, Junc A, Junc B, FD, RD, battery, cables. Mechanical is that minus junction boxes. Then you get into specifics like are you doing 1x? Are you using cable or hydro brakes? Which wheels are you using - what thru axle size and disc rotor type do you need?

It'll be a winter/commuter/touring bike so doesn't have to be fancy. It'll be mostly road so I think i'll stick to 2x. Would like hydro brakes. Don't know enough about wheels yet. Really tempted to just get the tiagra 4700 hydro groupset and upgrade later if possible.

Wheels will influence rotor choice but that's pretty easy to sort - both types are common.
I love not having cables to stretch/fill with grit/wear out. I think 1x is pretty silly unless you're racing CX or TTs with the bike - I like a nice chainline and normal(ish) cassette size.

I'm on 5600 shifters on my do-everything bike and the gear changes are getting really sloppy now. Getting rid of the exposed cables also would be nice, so...
If I want to keep it 10sp, can I simply get 5700/6700 shifters and not worry about the RD? I believe the 4700 shifters require a 4700 rd due to a change in cable pull, right?

olraight, thanks! will do some more reading and might come back then :D

Just replace the cables. Why swap the shifters?