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• #752
Well said
f that
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• #753
One of the guys here in Brisbane plays with a MKE head/cap... The cap fixings don't appear to work, he's had to ghetto the cap on with two massive bolts... However, not sure if user error... Everyone here loves the Harvey heads, which means my two mallets are on court all the time... They'll be worn out by the time I get home...
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• #754
^^^^^ : )
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• #755
Harvey are you making any more up soon?
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• #756
I'm in the middle of making 50 but have run out of acetylene and no one else in the whole of east anglia seems to have any either . It's a drag BOC have a virtual monopoly and they are expensive and shit . I'm in the process of building a blacksmiths forge to heat the metal plate that joins the head and cap which will be cheaper than using precious acetylene . They will be ready by the bike show invitational hopefully unless I can steal some Gas from somewhere else earlier ?
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• #757
Hi Harvey,
Merry Xmas.Tried Mapp? Using a similar process to yours I've used it and a plumbers torch to attach caps to heads before. It's more expensive than acetylene for sure, but it's a whole load more available if you're needing it fast. Try that?
Also, something I've been wondering for a while, is there enough torque in your lathe to just spin the caps on, friction welding them solid? If it would work it would surely open up the possibility of capping uhmw?
Colin
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• #758
Merry Xmas Colin
I used to use propane but couldn't get it hot enough and it took ages to get hot so it is wasteful too . If you get the temp too low you can still bond but it will be a poor joint . Liable to seperate ,the temp i'm doing them now is guaranteeing a life time bond . I've always wanted a a smithy forge so it's another excuse to do it . I have tried friction welding with limited success . Not saying it's impossible but again unreliable the way I did it . Really annoying when the cap falls off after building a mallet !
I also use my oxy-acetylene kit for brazing welding and silversoldering jewellery so I am pissed off I can't make anything over Xmas . Got a bottle arriving on jan 10th . I think BOC 's plant blew up or something a year or so ago , they haven't been right since . Forge will be great for separating brazed frames too . -
• #759
Merry Xmas Colin
If you get the temp too low you can still bond but it will be a poor joint .Discovered this pretty early on. Using big thick plate steel as a heat-reflector solved my problems.
A forge is the answer to many many more problems however. Photos once it's finished?
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• #760
Has Gormley used his MKE head yet? How is it fairing?
ha, no he ballsed up building the mallet, i need to sort it out for him.
One of the guys here in Brisbane plays with a MKE head/cap... The cap fixings don't appear to work,
probably user error, it comes with 3 tiny grub screws, which seems like a pretty good fixing system.
The production process is so much quicker with heat welding, but screwing caps in is awesome IMO, they last twice as long, they outlast the heads and you can just turn them round.
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• #761
Harvey, I'd love some more mallet heads if you're up for producing them? Your prices are crazy low by the way!
Did you ever speak to Newcastle Ed about the melt the tube in a dead end approach?
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• #762
Hey would it be possible to have one head+shaft for the invitational? I'm from los pelos. Ill bring only one due to alejandro leaving country with all the material to do the Americas.
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• #763
i asked the milky guys, shit looks real
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• #764
Saw toddies milky the other day and had a go on H bombs MILK..... Lovely! Where can i get one?
They seem to be worth the price.
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• #765
(Or nab on of the Ponies, or the milk page on facebook.)
£17 without shipping, lots with shipping, maybe get a group order on the go to bring the shipping costs down.
Did you ever speak to Newcastle Ed about the melt the tube in a dead end approach?
Ryan has been passed the mantle by Ed and will be laying waste to the mallet head making industry this year (material sourcing willing).
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• #766
or ray you could just go with the RV heads i think Jono likes them..?
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• #767
I might be interested in a Milk group buy. I'm finding RV's a little to heavy for my weak wristed self.
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• #768
I'm probably going to get 2-3 more, before the tournament season.
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• #769
I might be interested in a Milk group buy. I'm finding RV's a little to heavy for my weak wristed self.
I want one more Milk head. Are they lighter than RV's tho'?
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• #770
I was hoping someone could advise.
Edit: Milk say
80g (+/-2g)But I guess you could drill these out as some people do with RVs?
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• #771
or ray you could just go with the RV heads i think Jono likes them..?
Hear that, just wanna try one of these.
Im down for 1 milk.
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• #772
My capped milk weighs 89g
I'll weigh a Harvey when I get into work.
Looks like we might have almost enough demand for an LHBPA order.
What do people want (single) capped, or uncapped.
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• #773
Wicksie, id mail the guys and see how they've drilled theres.... im sure theres room for improvement/efficiencies in the heads, and a mark II ??
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• #774
they say:
"The very thin walls make the head very light and avoid using speed-holes.
A head without holes improves ball control and eliminates false rebounds.
(we recommend not to make holes in these heads)"BUT...obvs doing this...
...is drilling to the structure.
I guess if they're reluctant to drill for weight, its the material which has to be lighter or increasing the overall wall thickness for the sake of some serious drilling may be a better solution. 4mm wall thickness and 4-6X's 30mm+ holes??
or the poles.
I remember playing with a carbon ski pole years ago. Super light could last a few sessions back in the day.... nowadays i think a carbon mallet could last a bit longer.
Problem being is that they have profiles i guess the dowel in the tube fixing method would work well. I used to drill through the shaft which would (obviously) weaken the pole even before stepping on court. -
• #775
110mm RV head is 106gm undrilled.
Has Gormley used his MKE head yet? How is it fairing?