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• #152
nice work.
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• #153
For info of those that bought one of these (I did).
I started getting a creaking fromm the bottom bracket after about 500miles.
Pulled it apart and the grease was dry as a nuns pedundra.OK after a good greasing (that's the BB not the nun).
So be warned.
Toodle pip
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• #154
@markrjohnson: thanks for the headsup. Let you know in about a years time when i get to 500 miles if i have a problem with mine.
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• #155
Ive had one of these for almost 15 months now. I really like this bike, it does have issues with the brakes being juddery and squeely, even after lots of toeing the brake pads. Im tempted to get another as a spare.
Has tonnes of mud clearance which is ace.
You can put 700x 23 tyres on it which makes it just as fast as other ss bikes.
frame is flat and shaped toptube to make carrying more comfy,
slightly wider /flatter downtube to act as more of a built in mudguard :Dunbranded (formula?) 32h unsealed bearing hubs.
comes with 42 x 18T
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• #156
Mine has now started to make the creaking sound, I thought it was the cranks needing a tighten.
Any tips on doing the regreaseing, am I correct that it isn't a cartridge type bottom bracket.
It's been 10 years plus since I touched one.
Are any speacial tools needed? -
• #157
You would have thought that it being a cross bike, it would have a cartridge BB, no?
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• #158
It has a FSA branded BB, whip it out in the usual way(??). Then carefully prise the seal off the non drive side bearing and apply grease; pack it by hand and when you put the seal back it forces the grease into the bearings.
The drive side is a little more complex. You have to remove the cup which is pressed onto the bearing. I popped the bb into a vice so that the flange on the cup rested on the vice jaws but the jaws cleared the threads. Then careful application of a kinetic spanner (hammer) will free the BB.
After that its the same procedure for repacking as the other side.
At this point it becomes clear that if you can source the bearings on their own the whole unit is rebuildable (watch this space).
Then bung it all back together being careful to get the cups the right way round.Sorted!
Toodle pip
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• #159
So what is the verdict now that you have had a chance to break in these great priced bikes?
BTW: If any of you lads bought a size 61 or 58 that was too big for you, please let me know - I am looking for one.
Thx, Mads
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• #160
Ive had one of these for almost 15 months now. I really like this bike,
Any BB creaking yet? Just wondering how consistant this `issue' is and if I need some tools I don't have already..
Mine has been on the daily short commute for just over a month. No issues yet. Nice ride. -
• #161
Any BB creaking yet? Just wondering how consistant this `issue' is and if I need some tools I don't have already..
Mine has been on the daily short commute for just over a month. No issues yet. Nice ride.Something on mine is creaking and it increases with pressure, so it sounds like BB. Had mine for only a few months.
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• #162
Have now racked up just over 750 miles on mine and apart from the aforementioned lube issues it hasn't missed a beat.
A particularly bad day in which I got 5 punctures has led me to replace the tyres with 28mm Conti Gators and I am now running 46:16 with a White Industries freewheel.Personally I love it.
Toodle pip
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• #163
Mine sounds very similar to Markrjohnsons Its is over a year old now, done over 3000 miles on it, running it fixed and pretty stock apart from taking the rear brake off, putting 28c Gatorskins on and ditching the chicken levers.
Did find it creaking a bit but that was the chainring bolts working loose. It's a pleasure to ride and I look forward to using it. -
• #164
Won't be using mine too much for the next 6 months due to going back to college.
Quite bummed by this.
My first ever fixed and , I really love it.She just does what it says on the tin in a simple manor.
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• #166
is it better than a langster/wrongster/wankster/cunster?
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• #167
I'm really enjoying mine. The chicken brakes lasted a couple of weeks (my warranty checking period) and the cross tires were excellent during the snow. I've now bumped up to a 70GI and still run front and back brakes owing to inexperience, fear and country living although that will change.
I'm considering a longer stem, but that's more because I have a very long reach. In the mean time I'll be stripping off the pannier rack (after market) and rear brake for the TT season, which is the main reason for going fixed on drops.
Learnt to skid on it in about 10 mins under the expert tutelage of Unklesouth so not sure if edscobles theory holds any water. No noticeable creaking although the rear brake cable does rattle annoyingly. Will be getting some cable rubbers for that.
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• #168
I'm considering a longer stem, but that's more because I have a very long reach. In the mean time I'll be stripping off the pannier rack (after market) and rear brake for the TT season, which is the main reason for going fixed on drops.
Put up a photo when its done in full TT config. Would be interesting to see.
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• #169
Mine sounds very similar to Markrjohnsons Its is over a year old now, done over 3000 miles on it, running it fixed and pretty stock apart from taking the rear brake off, putting 28c Gatorskins on and ditching the chicken levers.
Did find it creaking a bit but that was the chainring bolts working loose. It's a pleasure to ride and I look forward to using it.Do you mean you took it off completely ? Cos I dont even use the back brake on mine, and was considering taking it off.... ??
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• #170
I've done that. As long as your comfortable that it won't compromise your safety then there isn't any reason to leave it on. I'm going to be using my bike for training and time trialling and usually out on quiet country roads away from the unpredictability of urban roads. Takes about 3 minutes to remove the cabling, housing and brake arms. Just leaves a couple of braze ons and arm mountings.
If you really wanted you could even take off the drops and replace with one of the chicken brakes for the front.
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• #171
I'm looking for someone to rip me off by selling me their tricross which they bought a year ago for £275 new from pearsons, for £200-£300 sh depending on what you've done to it. Any takers? Come on I know youre bored with it by now and the fact that it was such a bargain has worn off and now you want to feel like you are a great lil business man by selling it on at no real loss or maybe even a profit. I'm 6ft with 32" inside leg, i thought i'd need a 58 as i know a 56 langster is too small for me, but having read up on your wonderful forum (do i need to suck so much balls jus because im new?) youve got me worried that it will be too big. does any one know if the sizings are really that different between langster and tricross (from looking at the specs the 58 tricross has a 15mm greater standover height would that make much difference?)? tanking you kindly dear sirs
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• #172
I bought mine s/h off here. I too am 6' with 32" inside leg. It's a 56, and I think it's perfect, though I haven't tried a 58.
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• #173
Thanks, i think i will start looking for a 56. I just missed a 56 on weebay because i wasn't sure enough. whats the form for trying to find s/h bikes on here? is it not the done thing to bleat around asking for SOMEONE TO PLEASE SELL ME A 56 TRICROSS in forums about that bike? turra
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• #174
For anyone still looking, Hargroves are now selling this years model for £349 - but only in a 56. http://www.hargrovescycles.co.uk/products.asp?partno=33604
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• #175
Just been googling to no avail so if anyone comes across somewhere doing bargains on the 58cm (Or bigger if that is not the largest) can they post or PM?
Cheers.
Ok I did some of that....decided to leave the tape on for strength tho because I replaced the handlebars and the top and down tubes to make it less `Tri-crossy'.