Polo Bikes

Non drive side but I see drive! WTF!

The disc is the correct side, the drive train the wrong side, confused.

probably using a cog attached to the disc rotor mounts, no?

probably using a cog attached to the disc rotor mounts, no?

Yeah cos it would just be stupid to put a wheel in the wrong way round...

...unless you were using a BMX hub

Left hand drive? from bmx?

Amazon.com: ACS SouthPaw 16T Left Hand Drive Freewheel 1/8": Sports & Outdoors

Finally got my bike up and running after waiting ages for delivery. Still got adjustments to make but at least I have a bike to play on now.

Nifty, what's the weight like?

From the website, i didnt check mine;

Columbus Cromor
FRAME 1.95 Kg
FORK 1 Kg
TOT. 2.95 Kg

My stem is 800g alone though so its all a bit of a waste, im going to change it tomorrow to something lighter and with a bit more reach and alot less overkill

That was quick. I haven't even seen mine, I'm still in Bristol.

That's a really attractive bike. Have you found any trouble with toe overlap and flat pedals on it?

Looks ace, Alex... :]

I'm getting close to putting a deposit on a Marino frame. Feedback would be appreciated on the following, especially by people who have gone the marino route.

http://www.bikecad.ca/1325849116968

I'm 6 ft 2", and I've basically shortened and steepened what I have (XL Pompino) but used 26 x 1.25" tyres whilst trying to preserve the same riding position and leave enough room to go to 2" tyres if I want.

Dan get perks to build you a frame.

Matt would be happy do you a fade like the one on your bikecad design....

I'm 6 ft 2", and I've basically shortened and steepened what I have (XL Pompino) but used 26 x 1.25" tyres whilst trying to preserve the same riding position and leave enough room to go to 2" tyres if I want.

Your design doesn't fit 2" tyres unless you plan on having a curvy seat tube or something? The trade offs by designing for two different tyre sizes are too big in my opinion (you can't have an ideal rear end/front centre/BB height/trail/wheelbase/etc when designing for both), I'd pick one tyre size (or a middle ground) and go from there?

I was going to ask for a slightly kinked seat tube, but now I'm not so sure. I prefer the look of straight, and I doubt I will use 2" tyres. I've based it around 1.25" tyres, but going up would raise the b/b a bit (not a massive problem imo - I'm happy at 300m, so 310 shouldn't be too bad) and increase the trail a bit too, I suppose.

Accommodating the 2" tyres means you lose out on the following:

Ideal trail (unless you're prepared to be super slack on the 2 inchers).
Ideal front centre (unless you're prepared to have toe overlap on the 2 inchers).
Ideal BB height (unless you're prepared to have a much higher centre of gravity on the 2 inchers).
Ideal tight rear-end.

The above also has a knock-on effect on your wheelbase and the shortest possible top tube you can achieve. A short top tube is good (in my opinion) as you can then stick on a long stem and achieve better weight distribution (good in the corners).

All food for thought...

Any more high-res arty photos of Ryan doing his thing yet? I'm expecting something like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkB7mkzxCFg

Except with a few more garish SB trimmings.

Nah, it won't be anywhere near those production levels! I'm gathering bits of film as we go... the video will be pulled together once the new bikes are done (early Feb).

@Jono - yeah, I'm not sure I want to go as short as clearances will allow on tt/chainstay/front centre/wheelbase etc. The ett is 2cm shorter than what I have now (which I'll put back on the stem), front centre 4cm shorter, chainstays 3cm shorter, head angle 1 degree steeper...

I'm trying to take what I have at the moment and adapt it, rather than take it to the logical extreme of what should work. It's all a bit of a stab in the dark though. It would be nice if I lived in London and could try out every possible permutation!

Smaller tyres front and rear, than you plan for, should reduce trail.

I reduced my TT by 4cm from my DAMP. I'm enjoying it. I would reduce the top tube as far as you can before toe overlap happens or you would need more than a 100 stem, as long as the reach remains the same you'll be comfortable.

#IME

I am completely happy with my Marino, now that I have had a few months on it. I thought I was ordering something really extreme, and that I would order again, but actually it is perfect. If I order another frame it will be purely out of curiosity or because I want something fancier.

(sorry for not getting back to your PM, Dan)

IMO raise head tube and use flat bars.

probably using a cog attached to the disc rotor mounts, no?

The disc is the correct side, the drive train the wrong side, confused.

Yeah cos it would just be stupid to put a wheel in the wrong way round...

Drivetrain on the wrong side! Why? Why not?

Actually the cog is welded! 36/16, heavy for polo I know but I like it!

Why?

Grinds for BMX and (sigh) fixie tricks.

Why not?

Pedals coming undone, bodge required for the drivetrain to work and shots are more likely to deflect into goal from a 5-hole shot.

I've heard that phrase before but not in real life. What is a 5-hole shot?