Polo Bikes

Open or closed system?

Hayes from 2002, and a Hope M4 from 2003, hayes still never been bled,

Well if is they have a 2 year warranty...

Is the frame clean enough for a crack-inspection?

do you not also need to suck the air that gets caught in the fluid out?

Not really.
Never done it with any brakes other than Avid.
I think Avid might ask you to do it in their bleed instructions because the brakes are so shit that they need all the help hey can get to work properly.

My Pompino has started making a horrible cracking noise. I'm hoping it's the bottom bracket, and not the frame...

How old is the bb and how long has it been in there?

I got it new when I bought the bike, which was about the time of the cambridge tourney early in the year. So 6-8 months I guess.

crack-inspection?

ha

also I quite liked my juicys, and the bb7s are the only cable discs I've seen that work

is it a shimano number? if so it should surely last longer than 6-8months of summer riding? might be a cup or something. bbs normally grind rather than crack in my experience

bbs normally grind rather than crack in my experience

Yeah, exactly, that's why the cracking noise is worrying me...

I'll have a good look at the frame later.

I'm not having much luck with bikes this week, my fixed cog slipped on my langster the other day, I haven't looked at it yet, but I fear it's probably threaded the hub.

is it a shimano number? if so it should surely last longer than 6-8months of summer riding?

Can't remember, need to check. Remember that it's rotating twice as much as on a normal bike, and i've been playing 4+ days a week since I got it, so it's had a lot of use.

I guess so but it's been pretty easy use really. You haven't been jumping around on it a massive amount.

Every time something goes wrong on my bike I think the frame has cracked!

First make sure everything on your bike is nice and clean. Tension your chain and lube as necessary. Then tighten everything that has a thread; pedals, crank arms, bash guard, chainring, bottom bracket cups, saddle clamp, headset, stem clamps, brake levers, brake arms, brake pads, valve caps, cones, wheel nuts, EVERYTHING. Now give your crank arm a rattle, if the axle wobbles through to the other crank your bb probably isn't gone. Spin your pedals forwards and backwards, does your freewheel sound ok?

If your crank isn't wobbling and freewheel seems ok then take your bike for a spin and note when the creaking happens. Try peddling in and out of the saddle and see does that change anything. Brake sharply, try freewheeling, turning tight circles, then lifting the front wheel while rolling in a straight line and hopping the rear a little bit and see does it creak. Assess the health of your parts then start to think about your frame!

..then lifting the front wheel while rolling in a straight line and hopping the rear a little bit..

You want John to manual and then hop his back wheel? good luck

i plan on running just a front disc on new bike, gabes how are you finding it?

I just swapped over from v to front disc. Feels awesome, great modulation.

Yep, the modulation is awesome, you should be able to do rolling endos with the ball in a balljoint to 180º in no-time.

You want John to manual and then hop his back wheel? good luck

More to the point if he hasn't snapped his chain stays yet isn't this just the way to do it?

Anyone interested in some pompetamine (disc brake) forks?

Unused, off-white, have about 20cm of steerer on them.

They look like this. The photos of the lighter coloured ones on the On One site are shit.

You want John to manual and then hop his back wheel? good luck

#sckbrn

I could manual if I wanted to*

Anyone interested in some pompetamine (disc brake) forks?

Unused, off-white, have about 20cm of steerer on them.

They look like this. The photos of the lighter coloured ones on the On One site are shit.

How much do you want for them?

No obvious cracks, which is nice, will give the drivetrain a good clean, tighten everything, and go from there.

How much do you want for them?

I dunno...
They're 50 quid new and these ones are as good as.
How much do you consider a fair price?

I had the same fluid in some brakes for 7 years, before they degraded, so you don't need to change it every year or two

No you don't need to. But it's recommended, nobody says you don't have to service suspension forks until the seals are bust but people do. How does that work then

Re John H, bb might make a crack type noise if a bearing has been crushed or something but in my experience, any noise that sounds like it's the bb, isn't. Check things like that your saddle is clamped up tightly/there's no little bits of grit in the clamp, this can produce a cyclic creak or crack type noise as your weight shifts as you pedal.

Incase it is your bb, Shimano now do an uber low spec one, UN26 or something, they don't seem to be lasting very long, might yours be one of them? If so, try get a UN54 (or fifty something anyway) or even better a UN7something.

It's not a Shimano jobbie as he runs bmx cranks, agree though that it is most likely the BB.

Incase it is your bb, Shimano now do an uber low spec one, UN26 or something, they don't seem to be lasting very long, might yours be one of them? If so, try get a UN54 (or fifty something anyway) or even better a UN7something.

It's not a Shimano jobbie as he runs bmx cranks, agree though that it is most likely the BB.

Primo type or Profile type?
If it's Primo type the axle is bigger diameter which = smaller bearings = easier to bust them.