Polo Bikes

300 quid for the whole bike...?
or just frame + forks?

because of the additional weight, 48 spokes take around 10% more energy to be accellerated just as fast as a comparable 36h wheelset...

This is an important point, because in polo there is a lot of stop-start, so improved acceleration is a good reason to think about ways of making your wheels lighter. Remember it's rotating weight that is most important in acceleration, not the overall weight of the bike.

The biggest downside of 26" wheels (IMO) is the paucity of suitable tyres, when compared with 700c.

Paucity of 26" tyres?

Kokaks if you want relatively light, Ribmos if you want tough/light, Marathon Plus if you skid loads, several massive 2.35" options if you have clearance and want to raise your b/b 10mm or so... what more do you need?

There are more lightweight/high quality road race tyres in 700c, but they're of limited use for polo, right?

Paucity of 26" tyres?

Kokaks if you want relatively light, Ribmos if you want tough/light, Marathon Plus if you skid loads, several massive 2.35" options if you have clearance and want to raise your b/b 10mm or so... what more do you need?

There are more lightweight/high quality road race tyres in 700c, but they're of limited use for polo, right?

I'm using a road race tyre (Specialized something or other) right now on the front. Light, grippy & with a sturdy side-wall. There's a lot more choice in 700 than 26" for polo uses (basically for use on tarmac).

Those hija de la coneja bikes look really nice!

There's lots of choice in 26" tyres! More even than 700C. They're just not available in most bike shops... you'd have to ask for them to be ordered in.

Example: Cambridge made me want a good grippy indoor/skate park tyre, lots of choices in 26 cus of jump bikes and street bikes that frequent skate parks... not much in the way of 700C in that area. Also the general profile of the tyre on 700C often means a tall tyre, not as nice for cornering.

I recently went 26" from 700C cus of an incident with a vehicle... I have to say i won't be building another 700 bike for polo. Though for reasons other than tyre choice...

because of the additional weight, 48 spokes take around 10% more energy to be accellerated just as fast as a comparable 36h wheelset...

36h is also ~30% weaker.

I actually don't have the time or the inclination to calculate it so this is just idle speculation but couldn't you use a lighter 48h rim (if such a thing exists) to achieve a wheel of similar strength to the 36h, while decreasing the disparity in weight and also moving the weight towards the centre of the wheel.

Either way I personally think the affect of weight is often overstated, plus I break enough stuff to care more about strength.

but also consider that there are more holes in the rim, in one of the most critical parts of a rim's cross-section for withstanding torsional stresses.

more holes = weaker rims.

#pornotitles

in a couple of years, 20" 24h wheels will be trending.

300 quid for the whole bike...?
or just frame + forks?

Frame + fork, shipped home.

Ha, Kev, for the whole bike, good one!

Frame + fork, shipped home.

nice price, those look awesome...looking forward to more details

There's lots of choice in 26" tyres! More even than 700C. They're just not available in most bike shops... you'd have to ask for them to be ordered in.

Example: Cambridge made me want a good grippy indoor/skate park tyre, lots of choices in 26 cus of jump bikes and street bikes that frequent skate parks... not much in the way of 700C in that area. Also the general profile of the tyre on 700C often means a tall tyre, not as nice for cornering.

I recently went 26" from 700C cus of an incident with a vehicle... I have to say i won't be building another 700 bike for polo. Though for reasons other than tyre choice...

Dude, I am well aware that what is available is not necessarily in bike shops, and that sometimes you can order stuff. What I am not aware of is that there exists a light, grippy tyre in 26", whereas there are heaps in 700c. Heaps.

Please show where all the light grippy 26" tyres are. I want to switch wheel size, but as I said above, I can't find a wide enough range of tyres.

And BTW, if you want a 700c tyre that grips, corners & is light as well as strong, you should be looking at the Vred Fortezza (pref black). A superb tire that you can bang 175 psi into, and is still comfortable.

Ha, Kev, for the whole bike, good one!

Those blind factory worker Chinese orphans make it all the cheaper for us rich white dudes.

^ Some massive lols up there... Thank you, LPC... But especially you, Kev... ;]
megalulz

There could be a better selection of front 26" tyres (lighter, suppler, softer, in a larger variety of sizes) but unless you're front brake only, I don't see why anyone would need anything tougher/lighter than what's currently available for the rear.

I can see 'throw-in'/'tournament' tyres being a distinction in the future. Especially if it's wet or indoors where a soft compound would give you a nice advantage.

What is your idea of a light tyre bill?

500g too heavy?

bang 175 psi into

Nutter!

What is your idea of a light tyre bill?

500g too heavy?

[B]Vredestein Fortezza Quattro TriComp Tyre | 700 x 23c Folding Black[/B]

VREDESTEIN Road - Tyres High performance competition tyre renowned for its outstanding performance in both wet and dry weather Grips superbly on bends, carried Robbie Mcewen to the green jersey on the 2006 TDF Size: 700 X 23c. Weight 230gms Max psi 12.0 bar Equipped with PRS Puncture Resistance System

Nutter!

Not. One of the reasons tubs are superior to wire-ons is that you can put 150 psi into them.

There could be a better selection of front 26" tyres (lighter, suppler, softer, in a larger variety of sizes) but unless you're front brake only, I don't see why anyone would need anything tougher/lighter than what's currently available for the rear.

Weren't you following the discussion above where it was said that wheel weight is crucial in determining acceleration?

Not. One of the reasons tubs are superior to wire-ons is that you can put 150 psi into them.

I accept that for track but with the rapid changes of direction on imperfect tarmac, wouldn't lower pressure give better grip because of compliance? (sidewalls absorbing lateral shocks so that the maximum shock whilst maintaining grip is higher).

Would be nice to quote Sheldon at this point but he concentrated on puctures and rolling resistance in his sections about pressure.

It'll give you better grip but you'll be the slowest cunt on the court...