Polo Bikes

Those have turned the acorn in my pants to an oak.

Nice. Look super tidy

Zing. Makes me want to play polo.
How much are they?

They aren't right now. For the moment there is only the first batch. If we get enough interest there may be another...

price might help gauge interest no?

Why is the xl Hija so small? 52?!

Anyway I'm on the lookout for a large frameset . I'm tempted to use my Dodici, which should in theory be tougher than a Dolan, but I cant find any low rake v brake forks ( like the Velvet)

Any suggestions for frame or forks? Anyone use a Max power 700c?

Why is the xl Hija so small? 52?!

Anyway I'm on the lookout for a large frameset . I'm tempted to use my Dodici, which should in theory be tougher than a Dolan, but I cant find any low rake v brake forks ( like the Velvet)

Any suggestions for frame or forks? Anyone use a Max power 700c?

I briefly tried a Max Power 700c XL. It felt good. The only person I know who had one was Danny from Berlin (mine is a 26" L, which is maybe a touch too small for me)

Generally Max Power bikes are great, and he's very approachable, happy to talk about them, I'd recommend it

Buy that cheap Butterbean? Is it Rupert's old one?

For reference this is the (heavy) Charge Freestyler:

And this is what the Dodici might look like (needs longer steerer)

Why is the xl Hija so small? 52?!

52!? Where do you get that?
ST length does NOT equal overall size (specially if you consider how much higher the BB is compared to a non-polo bike).
The XL is definitely an XL-sized bike. Look at the specs closely or drop me a line and we can discuss it in detail.

I see what you mean about bb height. the standover actually seems legit.

56 Dolan= Disposable polo bike + bang on trend.

Why do these bikes have a higher than normal BB?
For clearance while cornering?
I'm asking because I want to take an old beater touring frame, combine it with a low fork for a steeper steering angle and try that out.
But low fork = lower BB so I'm curious why...

Yup, to avoid pedal strike while cornering. You can help with shorter cranks and lower q factor and small pedals if your bb is low, you can also make sure your pedals are in the right place when turning hard but it's easy to forget sometimes when you're doing a bunch of other stuff and a few beers down.

Less of an issue these days with freewheels being almost ubiquitous.

doesn't pedal through corners ^ now i understand why so slow.

I do like that bike. Are the forks bent or is it just a combination of 0 rake and angle of the shot? Also, one of those tyres needs rotating 180 or it's pretty much unrideable.

Yeah it's just the pic, they're nice and straight in real life. Thanks for the tyre advice, now the logos are lined up it feels at least 25% faster.

Happy to help.

I briefly tried a Max Power 700c XL. It felt good. The only person I know who had one was Danny from Berlin (mine is a 26" L, which is maybe a touch too small for me)

This one: http://www.maxpowercycles.de/wp-content/gallery/various-bikes/425717_511727122195378_544448387_n.jpg

That's the one with the old chainstays and dropouts. New one is like this:

http://www.maxpowercycles.de/wp-content/gallery/700c/700c_geo.jpg

Seat tube length is C-C, C-T is 645mm. Wheelbase is 995mm. head tube length is 195mm.

Seems pretty ideal. maybe I should start saving :D

Yeah, that's Dannys

Why is the xl Hija so small? 52?!

Anyway I'm on the lookout for a large frameset . I'm tempted to use my Dodici, which should in theory be tougher than a Dolan, but I cant find any low rake v brake forks ( like the Velvet)

Any suggestions for frame or forks? Anyone use a Max power 700c?
yes I do il have a max power which can be use 26-and 700c

For reference this is the (heavy) Charge Freestyler:

And this is what the Dodici might look like (needs longer steerer)

Does anyone know what cantilever adapter is on that silver frame?

This one: http://www.maxpowercycles.de/wp-content/gallery/various-bikes/425717_511727122195378_544448387_n.jpg

That's the one with the old chainstays and dropouts. New one is like this:

http://www.maxpowercycles.de/wp-content/gallery/700c/700c_geo.jpg

Seat tube length is C-C, C-T is 645mm. Wheelbase is 995mm. head tube length is 195mm.

Seems pretty ideal. maybe I should start saving :D

Measured the Charge...(approx)
st cc (ct) 590mm (630mm)
tt cc 565mm horizontal (really short)
ht 170mm
wb 1000mm
chainstay length 405mm
hta* 73

Versus the Max Power:
st cc (ct) 595mm (645mm)
tt cc 605mm effective
ht 195mm
wb 995mm
chainstay length 395mm
hta 74.5*

Obviously the Max Power is a better bike, but by how much?

The toptube is longer and the headtube is longer and more aggressive. The chainstays are shorter and so is the wheelbase. Snoops pointed out I am very upright on the Charge, and when powering down, my front end bounces around. I agree that more weight over the front should be a good thing, but going from 565mm horizontal toptube to a 605mm effective seems really extreme!

The other thing is weight. The Charge as pictured above weighs 12.18kg! (lol)

Max says:

Frame material is a question of belief in the end. What I can say from the technical point of view is this: at the same weight, an aluminium frame of equal quality is stronger than a steel frame. Alu=weak and steel=strong is basically bullshit. It should be: light=weak and heavy=strong. You can use steel to build bikes that are too light for polo, and you can build heavy aluminium bikes. I try to find a way to make bikes at a reasonable weight that are still strong enough. And in my opinion the best material for this is aluminium.

Thoughts?