Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

Supercharger?

From my youtube-procrastination it's easy to do and maintains the og linear power.

Or buy a cheap Jag S-Type V6 J and swap the engines:

http://chromjuwelen.com/network/237-engineswapdepot-com/207061-jaguarduratec-v6-swap-kit-for-mazda-mx-5
(always loved the idea of an auto version of this in a MGB GT)

Top of 3rd, foot flat to the floor, still feels flippin' fast and sounds fantastic, I love the way all the turbo noise quietens down when you're truly on it, focuses the mind somewhat. However, literally the first thing I did while having my 11:00 coffee break at work was google bigger turbos.

You'll need a solution to the manifold (it's a Volvo/Mitsubishi specific flange), everything else should be good to go, I'd fit this: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3071r-gen-ii

Cash money.

Surely you can "just" buy a new manifold for whatever fitment you desire? eg Garrett, as the current fitment will always be for outdated turbos.

Does anyone know a book or a website where I can learn more about how to size turbos for the engine and the intended use?

I'm not planning on doing something unique, or arguing with well tried techniques, I'm just interested in how it all works. I could probably dig out some old fluid dynamics books and start working things out, but I'd prefer a more simple explanation if it's possible.

Essentially, the TD04 is an old turbo, turbo design and technology has moved on since it was first introduced.

My basic understanding is that a turbo too small will spool up very quickly, but run out of steam quickly, and a turbo too large will spool up very slowly so although you get more power, it will take an age to become available. A larger turbo will allow you to run higher boost, whereas a smaller turbo can't cope with big boost. New turbos such as the GTX supposedly allow you to run a bigger turbo than you would have been able to in the past and not suffer from major lag.

Above is the sort of statements banded about at meets, in the pub, and on forums, to me it would appear that the main KPI of a turbo system is how much boost it can produce, so sizing is a turbo is about how long it takes to get to your target PSI and how much of the rev range it can maintain it. How do you calculate that for a given engine and turbo?

I think we did this before but I can't find it.

I've had a supercharged MX5, not intending on going FI on this car, it's on ITBs for the glorious noise and N/A drive-ability.

Basically, I've realised building high power track cars is just a never -ending money pit, so I've just accepted that I'm slow in a straight line, I go billy-big-balls in the corners, and I just enjoy driving on track, regardless of the laptimes.

Which I know is the opposite of the current instagram track-hero trend of posting go pro vids of you over-taking some expensive car with the comment, "GAPPED", but it's easier on my sanity and bank balance.

TD04....are we talking Impreza?

In boring car news. I have a sudden jones for a relatively new 4Runner. Can't believe how the little suckers hold their value though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq5A5ctua8s

The Garrett is well sized for the 2.3 5 pot.

In terms of manifold adapter, you can either mill the Volvo manifold flat, or you can use an adapter- problem with the adapter is that they tend to leak.

The US guys call bullshit on this, but they tend to use full power for ~10 seconds, then mooch around at partial throttle for ages, feedback from UK 850 owners who visit the Nurburgring is that the heat makes the seals life a hard one.

The TD04HL that you have is a 20T - which is pretty unbalanced as the exhaust side is shared with the 16T, but the compressor side is significantly larger. It's the Volvo pattern on the hot-side though, so it all bolts on and there's no seal issue.

These engines respond very well to a larger hot side, if you can deal with the manifold issues.

madness

i got the whole front end of sylvie back together - lower wishbone, spring pan, kingpins, trunnions, etc - then realised i had the trunnion rubbers on back to front - START AGAIN.

Then i wheeled the car out, got both sides out, tools, etc, then realised that the trolley the car is sitting on is too wide and covers the holes that you bolt the lower pivots to. i only have one jack, so i couldnt lift it.

bollocks - ABORT

...and to top it all off, the dynamo on the tr3 pooed its pants the night before

Been watching the new Wheeler Dealers the last couple of weeks, pleasantly surprised, Ant Anstead knows his shit and it's an affable screen presence, plus they seem to be going into some good detail about stripping and fixing things rather than the superficial detailings I thought they might do when they changed it up. Hate to say it but the new garage is a nicer place to be than Edd's old shed. Same complaint as the old series i.e. too much Mike Brewer (2 mins is too much), and not sure why they've relocated to the US.

Edd China took a lot of goodwill with him when he was booted off the show and I was hoping he'd do what all the fans wanted, which was literally just something along the lines of his bits from WD, but unfortunately he's posted a pilot on his YT channel of a similar show but he's doing up a viewers car which results in way too much padding, not enough mechanic-ing, and worst of all, a member of the general public. I thought we all agreed that the general public are mostly cunts and should not be indulged on television?

I have one. DM me.

Interesting. All the rumours were about it being taken in a different direction.

Maybe the truth was that Ed was just asked to have his hair done and work out a bit? Or he demanded tonnes of $s and Mike "the-wheeler-dealer" Brewer master negotiator saw a chance to replace him with a new er more efficient model.

I’d say that the chances of the new show being what was planned were zero after Edd left with his “this is why” YouTube clip.

Sounds a lot like my weekend trying to fit all the accessory drives to the Fury.

I now have two useless fan clutches that don't fit, despite measuring and asking the suppliers to do the same. I had to buy a new power steering pump as the old one doesn't fit the new brackets. Now I need to get new hydraulic hoses made as the old ones are the wrong length.....And cutting and modifying various fasteners as the kit was for stock cylinder heads. Tweaking ad-tedium.

Oh and fitting press fit pulleys without a hydraulic press is a cock.

Looks alright though.

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@NurseHolliday of course, there's also this option: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11144/124563-4t4-turbocharger

Which is spendy up front, but saves you $much on the manifold, and because it uses the Volvo flange* doesn't leak.

*obligatory fnar

Fuck, that sounds spendy. Looks great though.

I’m lucky as my mg man is just in Sydenham and he lets me pop in and grab stuff willy nilly. I have only had to buy the upper bushes and the trunnion kit twice so far (not counting the two shells...)

Not too bad, it's just really annoying as I measured everything and was told by suppliers the parts would fit. I can send the second one back but the first, I bought and left sat in a box for 6 months. Projects. Doh.

Sounds like you're racing through the MG. Is it going to be purely track, or are you going to get an MOT?

The Garrett is well sized for the 2.3 5 pot.

Surely for a fast Volvo a big fuckoff Holset is the appropriate choice of fan?

For a 10 second car, absolutely.

Add the nitrous, block-fill, Jericho trans, tubbed rear end and four link to taste.

This one.

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In reality, with a Holset large enough to make it worth while you'd never fit it between the engine and the firewall, you'd need to mount it over the bellhousing of the gearbox with a custom manifold.

You'd need to move the battery into the boot to stop it being cooked, but you could brace the turbo from the gearbox which would be handy.

Routing the downpipe would become, erm, interesting.

Probably best to run it straight out behind the near side front wheel. This would be noisy.

It’s a road racing series, so it needs an mot, but we are building it to fia spec. A swap of carbs, diff centre and added passenger seat makes us hscc spec.