Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

I know this is tedious, but any suggestions for best route M1 to South Norwood for an out of towner? Google suggests this but am not convinced. Travelling Friday lunch as if that makes a difference.

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it will mostly all be fucked. You could try the M25, but that'd be awful too. Just trust google on your phone and relax into it.

This, there's so many routes through and around, that any could be the best option, entirely day dependent, so just trust in G Maps routing.

I'd check an hour before hand in case there's any major fucked-ness meaning you need to leave a bit earlier.

Fuck. Yes.

CG are the best, that will be a fucking sorted car. Are the bushes and steering and everything all OK too or being replaced at the same time?

Remote on the rear only just because the adjusters are inaccessible on the rear? I'm assuming fronts are adjustable too? Remote as in physically extended adjuster rather than electronic?

2, 3, or 4-way?

Agree with the above though, if the M25 isn't fucked, that will probably be your quickest (least stressful) route.

Are you getting ARBs too?

I'm sure there's no way I can offer superior advice to CG, but on MX5s and Minis, the advice from all the racecar setup guys was always to fit adjustable ARB droplinks at the same time as suspension, because a lowered car preloads the ARB changing the handling. Stiffer ride when using cheap coilovers is often attributed to them being cheap, but that can be rectified by removing the preload on the ARBs. I need to buy new ones for this MX5 but I had them on the old car and the ride was much more compliant as a result.

I'm not calling your Ohlins cheap btw, just referring to other people who have cheap coilovers.

I test drove a Chesil almost 20 years ago. Wanted to see what a 1776 felt like in a lightweight shell as i was planning to rod my bug. From memory they were built very well, in terms of handling your talking basic bug chassis on 155 tyres. If it's for cruising then i'd go for the 356 with fuel injection on any size engine (1600 up). If he wants a bit of speed i wouldn't go lower than a well sorted 1776 but a 1914 would give you more power for the same cost. Also Chesil will do an IRS conversion for the rear for better handling.

It's been a while but back then they we're pretty friendly/helpful, i was just eighteen and they let me drive one along Chesil beach which is worth a journey there alone.

OK, thanks all! On your advice I will take a few good books and jettison all excess fluids at London Gateway.

Just watched the link. Thats some tasty bits going on the car. Should be good.

Are you getting ARBs too?

I'm sure there's no way I can offer superior advice to CG, but on MX5s and Minis, the advice from all the racecar setup guys was always to fit adjustable ARB droplinks at the same time as suspension, because a lowered car preloads the ARB changing the handling. Stiffer ride when using cheap coilovers is often attributed to them being cheap, but that can be rectified by removing the preload on the ARBs. I need to buy new ones for this MX5 but I had them on the old car and the ride was much more compliant as a result.

CG said to do one thing at a time - change the springs and dampers, full geo, test, then see where we are. I'll ask them about the pre-load situation, the car will be dropping 10-15mm.

That's about the standard sports suspension drop isn't it, so if you do need to change the ARB mounting geo then I guess Porsche already do the parts?
I'd look at changing mounting bushes etc as a matter of course.

I'm sure there's no way I can offer superior advice to CG, but on MX5s and Minis, the advice from all the racecar setup guys was always to fit adjustable ARB droplinks at the same time as suspension, because a lowered car preloads the ARB changing the handling. Stiffer ride when using cheap coilovers is often attributed to them being cheap, but that can be rectified by removing the preload on the ARBs. I need to buy new ones for this MX5 but I had them on the old car and the ride was much more compliant as a result.

Apologies as sure you've probably listed the details here before, but what coilovers/top mounts/ARB's do you have? Pretty sure I want Meister R ZetaCRD's when I have the cash but want to get an idea of which other bits are worth upgrading at the same time without breaking the bank.

I've got an unknown brand thicker ARB at the front, came off an import with no sticker on it, so no way of telling who made it...

My coilovers are HSD Monopro with the top mounts that come with them.

Meister R are good from what I've heard from many people.

For the everyday normal user, the options are basically monotube vs dual tube. I know Jerrick from Meister R extols the virtues of dual tube constantly, or at least he did a few years ago, but the main pro vs monotube is increased stroke and comfort. Monotube will be better on track because the oil and gas resist heat better, but you get a stiffer ride as a result, but more expensive models will generally be monotube so make of that what you will.

Aside from the DT vs MT scenario, most offerings around the £700-£1,000 are the same, lookout for added extras like galvanised threads and remote damping adjustment.

Above that price range you're getting into 2 and 3 way adjustable suspension, I wouldn't be paying more than 1k and not getting 2 way adjustable. That's MX5s/other normal priced car prices, suspension for expensive cars is much more expensive (unsurprisingly).

I have a few very minor scuffs and scratches on my car from keys and the like around handles etc. Nothing deep. Who has had experience of things like Farecla G3 or Meguiars for buffing such things out? Any recommendations.

Thanks for that - having a browse at the sale ad for my Eunos apparently it has unrated anti-rollbar and links, although will have to investigate if this means aftermarket or JDM. Looking on the Meister R site all sets are monotube which is good to know - thanks for that info.

I know realistically it's not going to get turbo'd or supercharged ever/soon but spending £800 on coilover seems worth it as they're all about handling. Thanks again

If you've got the time and inclination, I'd agree, most people don't want to double up on labour though. Obviously you're doing it the right way.

Have a look underneath, it may have stickers on the ARB.

The links could be uprated strength and standard length (I've broken a droplink jumping kerbs on track) or they could be stronger and shorter - so the right length for a fixed reduction in ride height, rather than variable.

Zagato AM shooting.

Company go-karting went well

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Fire or crash, or a fiery crash?

Crash but woman trapped in Kart after stacking it into the barrier.

Despite being removed on full stretcher / back board / neck brace she sustained no injuries luckily

Some people take those events as seriously as Strava

I know this is a boring answer but have you spent any time on track/ driver training? 800 quids worth of training will gain you more than coil overs. Although I do appreciate the desire for shiny new bits.

@Dammit not sure I follow the logic of not replacing bushings but if the current ones are ok (unlikely) then I guess it saves in the short term but then if the connecting points to the new stuff are not up to it you'll be back in doing at all again very soon.

It might be a different set up but when I replaced some suspension with a Bilstein/eibach setup I chewed the standard bushings in about 2500 miles due to the extra stresses being transferred.