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• #31027
Ordered a voltmeter to check but I did find quite a few posts talking about the alternator power steering problem. Pretty sure it's not belt driven and is just all built into the steering column. How difficult is a new alt to fit? Looks relatively simple
Thanks for the help
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• #31028
It ought to be simple on a car with a small engine, the biggest issue is usually getting to it in cars where the engine bay is cramped. It's often 3 bolts and one plug.
Getting the tension of the drive belt right is important.
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• #31029
Crank the engine by hand?
Are you a wizard?
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• #31030
I think I have fallen in love with this diesel Audi powered Mk1 Golf.
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• #31031
Fiat electric power steering is only designed to be switched on temporarily, for parking (it's the "girlie button" version, yes?) and it is known to fail if kept on all the time.
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• #31032
very clean but why would you want a diesel powered MK1?
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• #31033
Nah not city mode, I had a 99 punto with that (until it failed spectacularly). There's about three buttons on the dash and two are for the Windows.
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• #31034
13k!!!
You'd get two awesome mk1gtis for that. -
• #31035
Would you though?
Also sorry about the other weekend. I got in at 04:00 after a stag do and didn't leave the flat all day.
2nd sick note!
I still want that amp and still want to give you a hand with the B
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• #31036
cos its bad ass.
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• #31037
That paint job though, there must be a big chunk of cash in that alone.
I cant even begin to imagine how many hours that took. The paintwork is outstanding. -
• #31038
Is the right answer.
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• #31039
What volvo is it?
Have you checked that the caliper carrier is straight and the caliper is working properly? Think that the runout is fine and even getting the disc skimmed won't get the run out any better.
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• #31040
Punto and the other one with city button was 95% of the time a torque sensor on the column that failed or went out of line. Proper fix was replace whole thing = £450/600 for part plus a lot of labour, but folk started offering repair on the original part for about a hundred, but still ybr labour to remove and refit
Loads of those cars ended up as scrap at a young age because of it and pretty sure fiat never went to recall either -
• #31041
So been tinkering with the Gelandewagen and thought people might be interested...
since moving my intercooler inside the engine rather than dangling underneath the car which involved removing the oil cooler it's been running a bit odd, not as much grunt as i'd like.
Also on the motorway when i push past 70mph for too long the engine heats up pretty quickly but cools as soon as i take my foot off the pedal...been 6k miles so do a oil change : not bad, feels a bit smoother
alt belt tensioner is rattling so replacing the shock bushing : definitely quieter
fuel filter : chugs a little lessdecide that my air filter for the turbo intake could be working poorly due the fan in front of it creating turbulence so buy a crappy eBay air filter tubing kit to redirect from there to somewhere else. Only cost £25 figure i can experiment and buy a proper one if it works
pop up the bonnet, fitting it properly will require lots of tinkering so just pop the old filter off and put this new on to see if that makes a difference before rerouting when i have a few hours spare.holy shit. incredible.
mpg gone from 22 ish to almost 30
can hear turbo boosting up, and the waste gate opening with a satisfying ssssshhhhhhh noise when i drop off the accelerator - loads of turbo flutter at low speeds
less black smoke when i floor it
lots of whizzy speed with minimal turbo lag
temperature stays low whatever i doand best of all it spins its wheels from standing!
so, yeah - if you have an air filter you can clean DO IT. It's transformed my ride, just need to get a decent one that will have the balance of air intake and filtration protection
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• #31042
Oh yeah and in other tweaks...
• new shocks all round, new rear springs
• rust repair and new rear door fitted (463)
• subwoofer fitted
• MOT december so getting new rear fog lights to pass (old one was on old door)
• new tyres chosen - fit december slightly smaller (32") and slightly slicker
• wheels will be refurbed to satin black
• custom steel rear towing bumper being fabricated at the mo, fit before christmas
• electric fan operated oil cooler fit December ready for next summer
• replace rear numberplate to square type so need to fit light for itAlso roof tent is coming off for winter, all this is happening as baby on the way beginning of Jan and Kelly won't let me do so much faffing i'm sure! 'Classic' cars are money pits.
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• #31043
Moggy.
Has it got an oil cooler thermostat? If not, fit one.
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• #31044
I want a geländewagen too. Badly.
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• #31045
do it
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• #31046
I'm struggling to justify a well kept w124, I shouldn't even start thinking about a G, at least not now
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• #31047
Amazing pic. Unimogs immediately turn me in to an 8 year old again.
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• #31049
Can anyone help me identify the make of the white car in the background? (And if anyone from CSI is reading, the license plate...). Was hit by a car and he was a witness and really helpful, but I didn't get any info from him.
1 Attachment
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• #31050
Citroen C1.
Anyone had any experience with bent/ excessive runout in hubs? Loaded /unloaded.
Changed all my brakes onto immaculate clean hubs in July, car now done 6 k and shakes horrific under high speed braking, isolated it to one front disc with runout caused by rubbing leading to adding pad material and then a little thickness variation.
So today, new pair of discs, again, had them on a lathe this morning to measure and they are literally perfect, no runout on them.
Hubs also no detectable runout on the passenger side, and 0.02mm on the drivers side, volvo tolerance is 0.04/5mm
Drivers side is the problem but doing stuff in pairs to satisfy my ocd.
All bolted up with shortened wheel bolts in, again, all fine. Passenger side dead straight, drivers side 0.03mm total runout, with 0.05mm permissable.
However, literally driving down the street, screech of disc rubbing. And again at high speed a slight vibration noticeable (which will obviously get worse again with miles).
So no play detectable in that hub, but is it possible with the weight of ybr car it's jist enough to push it over that 0.05mm enough to cause immediate issues?
Discs are not expensive, genuine hubs are, cheap hubs aren't but probably aren't straight either.
So not sure if bent hub, slight bent and slight play, or just play in bearing enough to cause all this.