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• #16477
Don't hit the black one with the lowering stick. At least not as much as the white one.
Apart from making it undriveable, which goes against everything the Golf GTi is about, it doesn't look that good. Would look far better if you could just see a rizla paper of air between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch. And you'd be able to steer it.Also,you'll fail your MoT unless you replace those deleted side repeaters.
The tester's manual states "Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side."
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_140.htm -
• #16478
3 series coupe pls
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• #16479
Also,you'll fail your MoT unless you replace those deleted side repeaters.
The tester's manual states "Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side."
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_140.htmLies. Mine was built in 1989 and has never failed one yet. You just have to find a sympathetic tester.
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• #16480
Lies. Mine was built in 1989 and has never failed one yet. You just have to find a sympathetic tester.
Agreed, I've never had any problems getting cars through without them.
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• #16481
Don't hit the black one with the lowering stick. At least not as much as the white one.
Apart from making it undriveable, which goes against everything the Golf GTi is about, it doesn't look that good. Would look far better if you could just see a rizla paper of air between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch. And you'd be able to steer it.Also,you'll fail your MoT unless you replace those deleted side repeaters.
The tester's manual states "Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must be fitted with one side repeater indicator on each side."
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_140.htmIt's not a gti...
The white one got to full lock with no scrubbing and did over 30 thousand miles in the 8 months it was that low before I sold it.
Side repeaters are also still wired up within the wings and can be secured (electrical taped) to the outside of the wing come mot time. Not that my current mot tester cares/ notices.
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• #16482
Side repeaters are also still wired up within the wings and can be secured (electrical taped) to the outside of the wing come mot time. Not that my current mot tester cares/ notices.
This is my alternative method in case the tester throws a wobbly.
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• #16483
I'm possibly after a 5 or 7 series BMW preferably from the 80s or 90s, something a bit retro. Want something solid (hopefully rot free), punchy engine but reasonable to run and maintain. Would be keeping it for a few years if I found the right one.
Any ideas as to ideal model numbers please petrol heads?
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• #16484
^ awesome!
cheers man, audi wheels were 5x112 originally. welded and redrilled to 4x100 so a straight fit.
Was that expensive, and where did you have it done?
I'd like some steel wheels for running winter tyres on, but all of the 5x108 steel wheels I've found won't clear my (AP) brakes, so I need some 17" or larger ones, and I suspect that getting some redrilled might be the answer.
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• #16485
Dammit, wouldn't some second-hand alloys be cheaper than buying steels and having them redrilled?
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• #16486
i'm not sure about redrilling steels. both sets of audi wheels ive had done are alloys.
Local engineering place did them for about 25 quid a wheel.
I also think you will struggle to find 17 inch steels in any fitment. most cars that need brake clearance that big normally only come with alloys.
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• #16487
I'm possibly after a 5 or 7 series BMW preferably from the 80s or 90s, something a bit retro. Want something solid (hopefully rot free), punchy engine but reasonable to run and maintain. Would be keeping it for a few years if I found the right one.
Any ideas as to ideal model numbers please petrol heads?
E34 5 series would be my choice. manual 6 cylinder one if you can find one.
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• #16488
Dammit, wouldn't some second-hand alloys be cheaper than buying steels and having them redrilled?
Probably, but I thought that steel wheels would be narrower- which is better for cutting through snow.
Also steel doesn't corrode like alloy does from the road salt.
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• #16489
^ er, steel rusts....???
plenty of narrow alloys available, often oem wheels are pretty narrow - 6.5,7j
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• #16490
True, I would just like some steels for winter really.
Apparently Peugot van wheels are drilled correctly- but I suspect that there would be a significant amoun of fucking about with spacers to get the offset correct.
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• #16491
I'm possibly after a 5 or 7 series BMW preferably from the 80s or 90s, something a bit retro. Want something solid (hopefully rot free), punchy engine but reasonable to run and maintain. Would be keeping it for a few years if I found the right one.
Any ideas as to ideal model numbers please petrol heads?
E34 5 Series or E32 7 Series. The E32 was piiiimmmppp. I had an E34:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/621077_413806255345595_67117062_o.jpg
Was that expensive, and where did you have it done?
I'd like some steel wheels for running winter tyres on, but all of the 5x108 steel wheels I've found won't clear my (AP) brakes, so I need some 17" or larger ones, and I suspect that getting some redrilled might be the answer.
Mercedes do 17" steels, my mum's estate has one as a full size spare. However, they are 5x112. If Merc do them, others must do as well.
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• #16492
Thanks dry and NurseHolliday - I shall release the hounds of search!
With either the E34 5 series or the E32 7 series are there any 'must have done' pitfalls to look out for? Thanks.
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• #16493
With the 7 avoid the 2.8 litre inline 6- it's too small for that size car.
You should really go for an ex-diplomatic protection one with bullet proof glass and a V12, bit spendy on tyres and petrol mind.
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• #16494
Dammit - you mean like this?
Shame if so as it looks pretty clean!
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• #16495
That does look incredibly clean. Who would have a specced a 7 Series BM with cloth interior though! There can't be many like that? It was supposed to be the flagship of the range for heavens sake.
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• #16496
Go for an E28, preferably a 528i SE, like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-BMW-5-SERIES-E28-528i-SE-/270828384963?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f0ea132c3Or if you're feeling lairy:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-ALPINA-B-2-8-E28-1986-C-/321136786815?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4ac53e7d7f -
• #16497
^^ and in white too?
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• #16498
These E32s are much nicer 7 series:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1989-Blue-BMW-735i-in-stunning-original-condition-very-rare-example-/121136522011?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1c344ca31b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1991-BMW-735iSE-Low-Low-Miles-FSH-fresh-MOT-s-spent-find-another-/251297810605?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a828448ad -
• #16499
Where do people buy parts from? euro car parts was my first thought but only because I've seen it advertised
Need to pick up some brake pads for my Clio, nothing fancy mind.
Eicher/Bosch/Pagid - Are they all much of a muchness at this level?
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• #16500
Euro seemed to be getting more expensive when I used to use them. Could also try GSF (German, Swedish & French) but it might be that they're all pretty similar now.
I really want an abf on jenveys for this one. also just a pipe dream at the moment