Steal ability factor

Both a bda choice in my opinion, for the intended use that is.
They are both obviously flashy modern looking rims that will go toward the thieves analysis of it being wirth pinching.
Go for something that looks completely ordinary, (normal square rim) then glue some brown/red sand to it to make it look rusty. On the spokes too.

Bollocks x 2.
Open Pro basically are a plain looking 'normal' rim. Take the stickers off, job done.
Even CXP33s aren't that flashy.

I don't think anything less than a 28mm tyre will work very well on A719/319.

I run 25s on an A719. No problems here

Other than a poor tyre profile IMH(limited)O ;-)

I think the more like a granded tourer your bike looks, the less chance it will be nicked.

Well, it's a theory.

Or badly paint it pink? Man dems never be rollin' on your pink bike it don't match the blue and white sportswear. innit.

it's a choice between looks and nickability. it's possible to build an unattractive bike (mine's sitting outside work now!) but it doesn't get any looks on the street, or lead to any conversations with hipsters. You takes your choice. I guess the only other tip is to have things that don't match - wheels, stem/handlebar etc.

Bollocks x 2.
Open Pro basically are a plain looking 'normal' rim. Take the stickers off, job done.
Even CXP33s aren't that flashy.

CXP33's are immediately super flashy because they are deep rims, any informed thief who can actualy tell they are mavic straight away know theyve hit a jackpot.

Open Pro's have nice shape, shiny machined sidewalls, nice shiny eyelets , they are blatantly a modern high quality rim.

Do make a bike look undesirable you have to make it look like it has old school beat up steel rims or single wall plain aluminium like halfrauds bikes.

You could remove the anodising from the rim, leaving it bare metal which will form a protective but visually unattractive oxide coating. - Would make it look like a cheap rim.

Aside from that, something else that can be done on any bike part which is surprisingly unpopular is writing your name on everything.

Just take something sharp & pointy and etch your name onto your bike parts.

They aren't that deep! WIthout stickers they are blatantly a bicycle rim. Big deal.
How does a £5 Alex rim look any different from an Open Pro?

If you've had issues in the past then build 36h CXP33 or work on those "madskillz". ;)

For me the all silver rim, with a plain black tyre, looks much more discrete.

Yep.. but in both those shots.. guess what? They're both CXP33. :)
One is black with hipster tyre the other silver, no stickers, black tyre (which ended up bloody black from road grit anyway).

32h and 36h

Open Pros

Again fine for a first build. I have a double-fixed one on my polo/commute bike. It has probably done 2000 miles, plenty of abuse, skidding etc, and it's totally fine.

Bollocks. 32H is fine unless you ride a road bike like it's an mtb.

I've no doubt you can get 32H open pros to hold true, but it's also the case that you're more likely to get fatigue problems if you're a heavier rider with that combo than either a 36H or a cxp33 32/36H. It's worth being aware of - if you're not fussed about weight, then the extra cost is negligible and you'll end up with a stronger wheel.

Paint job - anyone find a pic of Sano's Rustbike?

been running cxp33's with 28 holes for nearly 2 years. commuting 20 miles per day, still rock solid.
oh, and i'm 12st.

If you desticker, and let them get a bit shitty, nether Open pros nor cxp33s are going to look like a pair of Zipps.

What you need is shitty looking finishing kit (bar tape, saddle, tyres).

Possibly with some home anodizing.

a

Aye, that be the one. Minus Ian's smart components I don't think anyone would touch it.

Maybe we could say half a stone per spoke with 28/12 stone being reference point..........but I'm not a weight weenie (though my full susser weights in at 26lbs) so I am going to go for the 36 as I have weighted 16 stone before.

I'm between 12.5/13 stones, and I rode with 28 spokes both rear and front (standard on the Bianchi Pista).

still going strong after a year, got it replaced thought after getting in a hit and run with a polish van.

mate I think you're being a bit paranoid, hell I ride a chrome bike, even a kids would like to steal it, as long you lock it up carefully with the right lock and don't leave it too long, you should be fine.

concentrate on getting the Kryponite Evo Mini and Fahgettaboutit Mini and lock it properly.

these lock save my bacon a lots, there's now several toolmark on my Evolution Mini, yet it's still going strong.

been running cxp33's with 28 holes for nearly 2 years. commuting 20 miles per day, still rock solid.
oh, and i'm 12st.

That's my point, really. CXP33s are pretty near bombproof. Look, in order of strength, it probably goes something like this:

CXP33 36H
CXP33 32H
OP 36H
CXP33 28H
OP 32H
OP 28H

Completely unscientific, I know! But the point is, chose your strength and your success with the wheel (i.e. if you break spokes/get rim cracking) is down to chance/time. And, remember, a collection of positive observations doesn't prove anything - you've got to hunt for negative observations. I'm sure heavier people are running less strong wheels, but that doesn't mean that might be a good choice for someone else. I'm 11st and have a 36H set I use for longer rides, where they're completely fire-and-forget, I have no chance of isseus with them even with a loaded rack and even if I break a spoke or 3. I also have a set of 18H front 24H rear, which I've also never put out of true. Pick and chose!

Courant

I think a good compromise is a 32 holes deep V rims, really it's all down to how good your wheel is built, I have some shitty rims, hubs and even spokes combination in the past, a good tweaking should be enough to make it last a while.

Certainly more subtle than deep Vs, but the cleanliness of those machined side walls is obvious after a second glance.

If you build something with all shit parts though you're not gonna care if it gets nicked.

As for "obvious", it's only obvious because you've just looked at a close up shot of them. How many of the eastend's illest do you think are going to be checking out the machining on your rims to decide if a bike is worth nicking? Not many.. they'll be looking at funky stuff with purple cranks and shit and then they'll be looking at which bikes only have one crappy cable lock. I'm sticking with Open Pro or CXP33.

I've no doubt you can get 32H open pros to hold true, but it's also the case that you're more likely to get fatigue problems if you're a heavier rider with that combo than either a 36H or a cxp33 32/36H. It's worth being aware of - if you're not fussed about weight, then the extra cost is negligible and you'll end up with a stronger wheel.

If you're not fussed about weight, run 4x 48h.

I'm 11st and have a 36H set I use for longer rides, where they're completely fire-and-forget, I have no chance of isseus with them even with a loaded rack and even if I break a spoke or 3. I also have a set of 18H front 24H rear, which I've also never put out of true. Pick and chose!

He's not touring. He's riding in London. 32h is the most common drilling and unlikely to cause issues. I've destroyed mtb wheels when touring. London and 32h wheels all good.
Yes, 36h might be stronger but so what? You can get stronger still.. it's a compromise.
If he wants the strongest wheelset buy a DH bike and use that. If he wants something reasonable for riding London.. look at what has been suggested. I run 32h, 36h, 20h, 24h wheels on various bikes. None have issues. 32h is still the most common drilling and what I'd choose.

because of the angle subtended with the hub flange and modern materials, 32h are actually stronger, though not stiffer.

orly?!