Removing a freewheel

Felch.

funicular

justbashthefuckoutofit!

No.

yes

Oh, and if your hub is crap this is a very good way to strip threads really fast.

inadvisable

Merged. :)

Oh, and if your hub is crap this is a very good way to strip threads really fast.

when undoing it? :s

i doubt it will work and yuo may just end up bashing lots of dents in the freewheel notches. let me know.

If the threads were anti-seized then hammering it off works fine, just don't expect the freewheel to continue working after.

A follow on question from this, once the freewheel is removed (assuming you are running fixed on the other side) I take it you replace it with some kind of spacers?

Why would you need spacers?

halo make a cover for exposed cog and lockring threads, but i don't think there is one to protect freewheel threads.

this kind of thing:

but it wouldn't fit solely freewheel threads.

i guess you could use some bottom bracket spacers and bb lockring, but not a lot of point.

Put the freewheel in a massive vice, one that is strong enough to compress the bearings and seize it solid. Then just turn the wheel.

This will almost certainly ruin your freewheel, it might ruin your hub, and it could do both.

LBS showed me this technique a few years ago, before I had the tools to do things properly myself. They also displayed their complete lack of knowledge when they tried to put their replacement 26" MTB rim into my 26" English 3-Speed frame.

the freewheel on my charge stove broke completely in half while riding last night. i've thrown the bits away now, does anyone know what type of free wheel i need to replace it with?

thanks

presumably any freewheel 16t and above

cheers it was the splined/scew on thing that threw me

k, ones below 16t are for bmx hubs with smaller diameter thread.

**** Dredge ****

Ok so i've got one of these freewheels and I can't remove it. I've tried putting it in a vice with a sturdy tool and turning the wheel but it didn't budge a bit and I was proper giving it some. I think the problem is that the torque that's being put through it on a polo gear has jammed it tight.

I'm now missing 6 spokes on the drive side and can't get them out past the freewheel teeth to replace them.

Would it be possible to remove (and replace) the teeth and would I then have enough room to be able to take the spokes out?

**** Dredge ****

Ok so i've got one of these freewheels and I can't remove it. I've tried putting it in a vice with a sturdy tool

the correct sturdy tool? takes some twisting to loosen, more than you think.

Would it be possible to remove (and replace) the teeth and would I then have enough room to be able to take the spokes out?

doubt it, never tried tho

This way always works for me.

Pump the tyre to max pressure and stand it vertically. Stand on the spanner while holding the tyre and your weight will do the trick.

the correct sturdy tool? takes some twisting to loosen, more than you think.

I broke a cheap tool and then borrowed a better one that I'm pretty sure was correct. There was no way I could have twisted that thing any more.

I tried scaffold poles, standing on it and eventually kicking it. It ain't budging.

I had the same ACS freewheel on a wheel, used it through 4 bad winters without touching it then wanted it off to replace it and it was jammed. I too had the correct tool and a well stocked garage. Couldn't do it. Two bike shops told me it would never come off, then one said he'd get it off no problem, he used an angle grinder.

So I've dismanted it and haven't lost any bearings yet. There was bags of room to get the spokes out.

How hard are they to put back together and what grease should I use. I reckon it needs to be thick enough to hold the bearings in place but not to affect the pawl return. It looked like there was just oil in it but that could be just what's happened over time.

When i did my f/w i used phil oil on the pawls after hassan's recommendation and reading around a bit. I think thick oil is the way to go... something like chainsaw lube consistency. It has sealed bearings.

For ball bearings i would have thought grease every time...? but again, thick lube if that is what was in there from the factory..