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• #677
i guess no one knows
magic - when there's no way you can tension the chain.
horizontal - you can tension the chain.
yes, you do know it'll be fine without the need for a mystical drivetrain made out of rainbow and unicorn.
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• #678
magic - when there's no way you can tension the chain.
horizontal - you can tension the chain.
yes, you do know it'll be fine without the need for a mystical drivetrain made out of rainbow and unicorn.
You know, if you had a magic unicorn you wouldn't need a fixeh.
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• #679
Thanks for that pointless explanation
the drop outs are not long enough to use any ratio and for it to be tensioned, so you need a "magic" ratio, what else am i suppose to call it? a not so magic ratio?
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• #680
ffs
How long are your dropouts?
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• #681
those dropouts are plenty long to tension the chain.
You only need a magic ratio with vertical dropouts or really short horzontal ones, but I've just wasted my time telling you that because apparently you don't want to listen.
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• #682
From your picture it looks like you have plenty of room to tension the chain, my conversion has dropouts about 1 inch long and i've never had a problem. If the ratio you have doesn't fit, get a bigger/smaller cog, there's no such thing as a magic ratio for sliding dropouts.
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• #683
too late, what chompy said... must try harder...
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• #684
i didn't ask what magic ratio meant, you know what i mean anyway
id listen if some one gave more helpful information
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• #685
If ^ that ^ is the frame your getting... Then this >>>
From your picture it looks like you have plenty of room to tension the chain, my conversion has dropouts about 1 inch long and i've never had a problem. If the ratio you have doesn't fit, get a bigger/smaller cog, there's no such thing as a magic ratio for sliding dropouts.
you ungrateful quent -
• #686
NF, what do you actually mean? Is your current ratio not fitting in the dropouts? Have you actually tried putting the wheel on the frame with a chain on it yet?
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• #687
i guess no one knows
Thanks for that pointless explanation
the drop outs are not long enough to use any ratio and for it to be tensioned, so you need a "magic" ratio, what else am i suppose to call it? a not so magic ratio?
i didn't ask what magic ratio meant, you know what i mean anyway
id listen if some one gave more helpful information
In the space of just a few posts you've demonstrated yet again that ***you ***don't have a clue what ***you're ***talking about, let alone what you mean, and that you're really just rude.
In light of the replies given I would have hoped you might have realised that our question was retarded in the first instance, reflected upon that, then maybe tried to do something for yourself rather than expecting it served up on a plate to you, but no, more shitty attitude.
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• #688
sorry for being lazy and not looking around,
i'm getting a carbolite frame soon
magic ratios?its this frame,
i got hold of a larger frame and we are swappinggetting inpatient and planning my build already...
- So you don't have the frame ?
- Nice people are trying to help
- Where are you an inpatient ?
- Will they let you ride it indoors ?
- So you don't have the frame ?
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• #689
^ ha. It all makes sense. Even his chosen name.
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• #690
New frame sometime may need new chain, especially if the chainstay may be longer.
when installing chain, make sure it's a little too long so you can able to shorten it a link or two to get to the idea length.
that's it.
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• #691
all I asked is what ratio works on that frame because I guessed there's a lot of people with those here and they would already know so I don't have to spend money on cogs finding out my self
not every ratio will work on every conversion frame, i know that for a fact
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• #692
Just use your wheels and chainset from your other bike
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• #693
But we don't know the chainstay length so we couldn't say.
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• #694
Almost finished, just need to drill my brake. Lost the seatpost bolt though now. FFS!
So, drill front brake (hole is too small), add my pedals and then pretty much ready. Need a new stem/powdercoat the one I have and then bar tape to match the saddle.
Oh yeah and finish taking off the stickers from the wheels, and possibly add peugeot decals.
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• #695
Put some campag strada pedals on her which I bought from the forum and have been out and about around Edinburgh on her all weekend and she's been riding really well. An absolute joy, to be honest.
All in, and measured with stunning accuracy on a "measure the weight of your luggage" hook, she's between 8 or 9Kgs which I reckon isn't bad at all. Even made it up Arthur's seat, which was something of a struggle in the wind. -
• #696
all I asked is what ratio works on that frame because I guessed there's a lot of people with those here and they would already know so I don't have to spend money on cogs finding out my self
not every ratio will work on every conversion frame, i know that for a fact
I had a peeewwww got for my first frame, same period as yours, just see how big your front ring is then get a descent size freewheel for nice gearinfor the back and it will fit.
spesh with a half link chain, there is no way you won't find it fitting.
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• #697
great thread. i've just acquired n old peuteot carbolite 103 (for free!) that i'm hoping to strip down and convert to a fs/ss. i'm sure i'll be back with questions but this thread has loads of great info on it - some nice looking builds!
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• #698
I managed to acquire an old pug at the weekend for free off an old family friend. I intend to convert to a fg/ss to use over the winter.
Here are the specs i've managed to find so far:
Size: Middle of BB to seatpost is 22 1/2 inches
Front Wheel - Mavic Model E 27 x 1 1/4
**Rear Wheel **- Unidentified. Seems a bit thicker rim than the front
Brakes - Shimano Tourney
Saddle - Brooks B17 Champion Narrow
Cranks - Solida
**Frame **- 'Peugeot Tube Special Carbolite 103 by Peugeot France'
**Bottom Bracket **- 'FAG Germany'
Deraileur - Sachs Huret
Distance between rear stays - 120mm
Stamp on rear chainstay dropout - '310 18112'
Frame stamp underneath BB - '123'
Year - From info here (http://cyclespeugeot.com/ModelID.html) the checkers in the decals indicate it was produced between 1979 & 1983.My plan is to add some drops and convert this to a fg/ss to use for winter training. Not sure how far i'll go with the rebuild (respray the frame etc) as I may end up upgrading to a 531 frame at some point if i can find one cheap.
Ideally i'd like parts that could be used on a 531 frame in the future if possible.
Here are a few questions i've got;
Q - I know the frame isn't exactly top quality steel. Are any of the other bits worth much?
Q - Could I simply take off one of the chain rings from the front when converting or do i need a whole new crankset?
Q - I've not tried yet but do you think 700c wheels would fit on this bike?
Q - Any advice on what is a good reasonably priced flip flop hub (fg/ss) that will last?
Q - Any other advice or things i should think about before i start?
And finally, some pics of the machine in question....
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• #699
Haven't ridden my Pug for well over a year (been away travelling etc) but recently made a couple of changes, new brake to come & must get that stem height adjusted too
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• #700
The saddle is a keeper. Possibly the stem too - a lot of quite cheap bikes from the 70's and 80's had nice SR stems. But I can't really make out anything from the pictures.
You can take of the smaller of the two chainrings, since it's simply bolted to the large ring. But you are probably out of luck is you want to change the large one.
Looks like a 700c frame, but that's based on looks.
How have folk been with getting the original drops and just flipping them and hacksawing them to get bullhorns?
I've seen some done and they looked fine.