Belt drive fixed

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  • Read the technical manual in the resources section of their website. Lists all the measurements you need to know.

  • Read the technical manual in the resources section of their website. Lists all the measurements you need to know.

    Do you not know Dammit? He will just ask question after question on here, rather than contact the manufacturer or do the research himself.

  • Don't make me dig out your first post on here James.

  • There was a good one about bar tape in AQA just the other day if you want to dig up something more contemporary

  • The only main problem I have with fixed belt is trying to tighten the lockring which is recessed in the very wide sprocket.

    The other is making sure it produced the right noise when you flick it - take some time using the (iPhone-only) official Gates apps to make sure it's not too tight or loose.

    I loved the concept but the price made it too expensive to considered if it all gone pete tong.

    BTW, have a belt chainring, cog and chain for sales for £50 altogether, it's the old style one.

  • If the belt is starting to shed it's teeth it's about to selfdestruct. The belt on my Trek District just did this a week ago... I did ride around 10 thousand kilometers on the one belt since buying the bike second hand a couple of years ago. Used it year round to commute in every kind of weather. Just recieved a new belt in the mailbox so it's back on the road.

  • Ed- the lockring issue is why I think bolt-on ISO is the way forward.

    That also allows you to use generic off-the-shelf disc hubs- albeit ones that come in 24h which might be less common than others.

  • I highly recommend you to follow that option, a lots less headache that result in I giving my friend a Phil Wood lockring that's deep enough to lock it in properly.

  • But it would mean using the non-centre track rear sprocket.

    I think it's the best option though.

    The next puzzler would be what 24H disc hub to use.

  • If the belt is starting to shed it's teeth it's about to selfdestruct. The belt on my Trek District just did this a week ago... I did ride around 10 thousand kilometers on the one belt since buying the bike second hand a couple of years ago.

    10,000km sound about right, this is what Gates says about the lifespan;

    Testing has shown the Carbon Drive belt to last more than twice the life of chains.

    Thought it cost a lots more to replace the belt than it would a chain, cog and chainring when it's completely worn out.

  • The next puzzler would be what 24H disc hub to use.

    It's a fairly short list, shouldn't take long to figure out. Bear in mind that 24H front hubs are likely to be targeted at weight weenies, so they often have small bearings not really suited to rear use. That leaves the Tune Cannonball.

  • You'd discount something like this from Novatec?

    http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D711SB.asp

  • Fair point, seems to use 6902 bearings, which are about as strong as the 6000s used in Novatec track hubs.

  • I've spaced hubs out before but they've been cup and cone - DA 7600 specifically.

    Would it be the same principle for that Novatec- undo, 5mm spacer each side, reassemble?

  • Almost certainly not, you'll need to pull it apart and see what size axle is in there and how it retains the bearings, then either modify it or manufacture a new axle to suit.

  • That is what I had feared. Still, it would be a good opportunity to change to a traditional style track axle.

  • This belt drive stuff is a bit of a faff, however.

  • Came across a Spot Brand flange the other day http://spotbrand.com/bikes/product-page/flanges/

    Allows you to add a second flange to a CDC rear sprocket, meaning it isn't going to walk off sideways.

    And yeah, it is a huge faff. I'm willing to give it another go, as the sensation of riding is so much plesant. However, it sits on my main commuter I don't want to be spending so much per month on consumables.

  • That is what I had feared. Still, it would be a good opportunity to change to a traditional style track axle.

    Simplest method would be to upsize this to fit the 15mm ID 6902 bearings, then use a stock 10mm axle, locknuts and spacers


    1 Attachment

    • PRO_cone.png
  • I received an email from Gates as I had asked about a bolt-on fixed cog - they now do a CDX one in 22t. Product code is CDXR226B9S and can be ordered from http://www.velorution.com in the UK.

  • The only main problem I have with fixed belt is trying to tighten the lockring which is recessed in the very wide sprocket.

    There might be a solution on the way, if enough people are interested:
    https://www.lfgss.com/thread128271.html

  • Bit late but great shout, will email John about this.

  • Had another belt fail in the same way, after roughly the same milage. Inspected it closer this time. All the wear appears to be even across the width, so dont think it is an alignment issue. No slipping, so not tension either. When I bent the belt back on itself I could see that every tooth that remained was about halfway delaminate - pulled away by the forwards pedalling motion.

    I got sent two replacements last time so there is one left to go. I have a feeling the failure is a combination of me being too heavy (90kg) and the rear pulley (21t) not spreading the load across enough teeth.

  • Friend of mine have similar gearing and weight as well, didn't have any problem, what belt are you using?

  • 55 X 21 with a 113 tooth centertrack

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Belt drive fixed

Posted by Avatar for Velocio @Velocio

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