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• #27
I haven't seen one of those in ages! haha
Did you replace the forks or the previous owner(s)? I'm trying to get a handle on what I need to buy.
Nice. That's almost exactly what I want to build, something clean and unassuming for getting to work and back. What type of brakes did you end up putting on it? Mine are fairly shot so I was thinking of replacing with modern, more efficient equivalents.
Is it a good idea of match the front and rear brakes (ie. buy a set), or should I spend more on the front brake and get a cheaper rear since it's not as crucial?
i went with some cheap alhonga deep drops (the frame was 27")
I also put a cheap 90s mountain bike fork on there which is bomb proof. -
• #28
i went with some cheap alhonga deep drops (the frame was 27")
I also put a cheap 90s mountain bike fork on there which is bomb proof.Thanks for the information. The old brakes look to be a bit of a lost cause, and I wouldn't like to take any chances so I'll be on the lookout for a new (or new-looking) set. My wheels are 700c, iirc (my other half has hidden the tape measure because I forgot to put it back in my toolbox). :D
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• #29
Another quick update:
It turns out my wheels are 27". I've purchased a 700c set since the rims on the current ones seem quite worn and I'm in need of new tyres, tubes and brakes, anyway. Will scout around for a set of those deep drop brakes, thanks for the tip kernowsibley.
The old headset is very grimy / gritty inside and the bearings are loose rather than in a cage (which I've seen in online guides). I'm not 100% sure of how to judge the wear on the headset, but since new Tange branded ones seem cheap it might be sensible to pick one up - wouldn't want to have trouble steering! Which brings me to the ebay fork I picked up. It measures almost identically to the alu one I'm replacing, and weighs in literally 3grams heavier. The only significant difference is that the alu fork had 25mm threaded whereas the new steel one has 50mm. If my research is correct then this would only affect my choice of new headset. -
• #30
^ not sure about the different sizes of threaded areas. As for the original bearing set, in theory loose ball bearings are better than ones set in a cage because you will be able to fit more of them and so it will be stronger. It's very easy (and cheap) to get new ball bearings. Just take one along to make sure you get the right size. Wipe clean the bearing slots, pack with grease and push the new ball bearings into the grease to hold them in place. Cheap and you don't have to pay someone with a headset-press to fit a new one.
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• #31
[QUOTE=gutts;1531530]Another quick update:
It turns out my wheels are 27". I've purchased a 700c set since the rims on the current ones seem quite worn and I'm in need of new tyres, tubes and brakes, anyway. Will scout around for a set of those deep drop brakes, thanks for the tipbrakes were purchased from here, they are not the nicest to look at but are dual pivot and work really well. plus they are pretty cheap.
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b37s100p149&tbv=ALHONGA_Deep_Drop_BrakesPARTS&_ACCESSORIESComponents-Brakes-_Caliper
Update:
I had a quick look on ebay and picked up a steel fork which I think matches (at least, according to my amateur measurements), as it was going cheap.
It looks quite similar to the alu one, here are the measurements the seller gave:
Will know more when I get hold of it, else I'll have one more thing to flog on with the other bits I've been pulling off already (like the gear mechanism)! :D
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