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• #27
urine.
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• #28
felix, i told you to UTFS!
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• #29
actually murtle, search fail.
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• #31
i've tried clear coating various steel bikes at least 6 times. it always looks killer for the first few months and then eventually rusts under the paint. Always. I'm very careful, with good clean prep work and i go very heavy on the paint. Usually unloading 5-6 coats over a period of days.
One problem is that I'm using rattle can enamel, and i'm sure there are better quality paints out there. Enamel is crap for durability, but still i'm not even really talking durability. I'm talking that the frame actually oxidizes under the paint.
Moral of the story is that i've never seen it last. It always starts to look shit 6 months down the road.
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• #32
I got an old Gitane frame and started restoring it…my first big project!
There is some superficial rust but also inside the seat tube and probably inside the chain stays…can I treat the frame for rust before powder coating?
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• #33
if it isn't too bad best bet is probably jp weigle framesaver to stop it spreading.
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• #34
But after the powder coating. Else you will fuck up your powdercoat.
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• #35
I have got a vintage steel frame from around 1970. I want to keep the original beautiful paint, though the frame has several smaller rust spots (see pictures).
What can I do to prevent the rust spots to spread to larger areas?
Any suggestions for subtle remedies, e.g. ways to cover the spots with a matte protecting surface (without destroying the original paint - many rust removal / protection products seem very aggressive).
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• #36
And here are the pix ..
2 Attachments
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• #37
That's patina!
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• #38
Clear nail varnish or linseed oil, and UTFS.
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• #39
Clear nail varnish or linseed oil, and UTFS.
UTFS? Sorry, I don't know that abbrevation.
How often is linseed oil to be applied to work? Guess the coating is not that durable ..
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• #40
UTFS means use the fucking search - there are already quite a few threads about this. Linseed oil is actually very durable - it is a polymerising oil, that is, it dries to a hard satin finish. It will rub off if you rub it, of course, but I have coated unpainted frames and ridden them through winter, with not a jot of rust appearing by spring.
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• #41
vaseline will work too.
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• #42
UTFS means use the fucking search - there are already quite a few threads about this. Linseed oil is actually very durable - it is a polymerising oil, that is, it dries to a hard satin finish. It will rub off if you rub it, of course, but I have coated unpainted frames and ridden them through winter, with not a jot of rust appearing by spring.
Thanks for the explanation!
In fact I look at other threads prior to posting this, but only found suggestions for removing rust from chrome surfaces (Autosol etc.). I will search deeper next time ..
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• #43
No worries. Vaseline does prevent rust, but it also rubs off if you touch it. Better than nothing, and also excellent for slopping over nuts and bolts (and the terminals of your car's battery).
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• #44
Vaseline.....excellent for slopping over nuts.
advice of the day
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• #45
This... http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=92
Not sure if its available in small quantities though!
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• #46
Use Autosol on a regular basis or spray with WD40 or similar if it gets wet.
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• #47
I used this on my motorbike at first, now on my bicycle. In fact, everywhere bar my nuts.
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catRef=540911 -
• #48
^ I managed to grab a good two-dozen little bottles of that stuff at a trade show - it seems to work well so far.
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• #49
I've used this for years on cars with 50 year old patina paint, the best you can get.
http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=92
dbk
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• #50
Are you not tempted to rub the worst of it down and patch it in? The best way to prevent the spread of rust is to take the item back to bare metal and re-coat it.
yawn!
http://www.londonfgss.com/search.php?searchid=3019693