Current Projects chat and miscellany

What change your mind? previously you said it doesn't matter overall, even for short people with long cranks.

Hi everyone,
I own a red/white/blue fade marsini track frame,
its been on this forum for a while now and I was wondering if anyone/previous owners could tell me anything about tubing , age or builder.
many thanks
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Couple of changes on my Dale.
New wheelset, flite seatpost and saddle, monkey bars and Grammo inspired pro chrome stem. Trying to get the weight as low as possible with steel forks.
[PHOTO OF RAD CANNONDALE]
Will take better pic's when i get some time

This looks awesome in the flesh too!

Don't waste your money, the only way to get crank length wrong is to have them too long. Other than that, crank length makes no difference.

Tycomath never waste his money ; )

What problems did you have? I've just fitted some DA cranks with a USE chainring to my track bike.

Well I think it was because the 105 crankset I had was for triple and the chainring bolts were too long for the use chainring. So I bought shorter ones, which were too short, then I cut my orginal and they still made a little sound.
DA with the chainring would be perfect I am sure, if I had the money I would have a Red Crankset, that would look sick!

Singapore IIRC

You do

What change your mind? previously you said it doesn't matter overall, even for short people with long cranks.

Pretty sure I've never said it's OK for people to have too-long cranks.

My Phil Woods rear wheel is slipping ever so slightly in the drop-outs; secured with Allen key bolts. Scared of over-tightening the bolts. Any recommendations for a suitable chain tensioner?

Out of interest, tester, what is 'too long'? Assuming 33" ish inside leg is average (that's what I have, at 6ft).

I run 172.5 on the road but I've never thought much about it.

Got new wheels, got new cassette, don't got new spacer. Balls.

My Phil Woods rear wheel is slipping ever so slightly in the drop-outs; secured with Allen key bolts. Scared of over-tightening the bolts. Any recommendations for a suitable chain tensioner?

Don't have a chain tensioner option, but if you grease the hell out of the bolt faces it's easier to clamp them down.

Any recommendations for a suitable chain tensioner?

Get Phil Chrome Dome, job done.

My Phil Woods rear wheel is slipping ever so slightly in the drop-outs; secured with Allen key bolts. Scared of over-tightening the bolts. Any recommendations for a suitable chain tensioner?

You would do well to over tighten the bolts , I'm a big chap and haven't damaged mine as yet.

Out of interest, tester, what is 'too long'?

It's going to depend on your range of motion, which might in turn be affected by your riding position.

Little update, need a real compact handlebars (on this the levers should be higher on the drop) and a shorter stem..

But I love him, really reactive in this configuration..

Also need to improve the saddle position who down a little.

^ What saddle is that?

a flite

Forks and hydraulic disc brake fitted

Hi everyone,
I own a red/white/blue fade marsini track frame,
its been on this forum for a while now and I was wondering if anyone/previous owners could tell me anything about tubing , age or builder.
many thanks
[/IMG]

Hey TPR, pretty sure this is Monoc 7005 Tripple Butted Alu, with "flower shape" top and down tubes.

Didn't like the weight of the internal hub on my Charge Mixer. Going sinlge speed and changing a few bits and bobs so it is something I'll actually use

^ What saddle is that?

a flite

Indeed, it's an old and destroy Flite titanium FKS (full kevlar seat) like this but in black:

214 grams, not bad for a product released in 1987..

The Hinde is coming along nicely.

Planet X TT forks,
Boardman Pro OS 90mm de-branded stem,
ITM Alutec 42cm short reach / shallow drop bars,
FSA SL-K 31.6mm in-line seatpost,
Stripped San Marco Aspide saddle,
Aksium wheelset with GP4000S tyres in 25mm

Cockpit arrived so the Pina is completed (maybe a pair of Zipp 404 in the future.... far future)

More seatpost woes:

Had to retire from the scratch race today when the alloy seatpost started slipping just like the carbon one had. This time it also peeled off some of the paint and took some aluminum with it. I torqued it to 10+Nm afterwards and it didn't slip again, but it hardly gave me confidence.

Seems like it's either bigger than 29.4mm or, more likely, misshapen through past shenanigans.

What should I do?

Get it reamed and then buy a post that fits the new, reamed tube.