Current Projects chat and miscellany

NMSW will still work fine, the machined part is usually an easy way to ensure that the braking surface is perfectly linear.

In the nicest possible way, it's just a commuter. Just fit what will do the job (which is either a23, machined or not, or any number of alternative rims) and away you go.

Any brake pads which fit your shoes will be ok, Koolstop salmon are a good choice as unlike SwissStop Greens they're good at low speed and don't cost too much. They're good in the wet too.

I'm finding Koolstop stop me better than SwissStop, is it just me?

https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/10365376_10153108424671490_681207934643240729_o.jpg

I've just started building this throwing parts I had on another bike and I took a quick pic this morning. Thinking of getting another saddle for this. I find Arione pretty comfy but what other saddle would look okay on this frame? Chains and Crankset look quite ugly so they will go soon too.

I'm finding Koolstop stop me better than SwissStop, is it just me?

I think Greens feel best when worked really hard. They were unbelievably good hurtling down a mountain – doesn't matter if it's a hot/dry or cold/wet day, they've got tonnes of feedback.

Salmons have loads of bite on short, wet descents. I've been putting them on the winter bike the last few years and they're ideal.

^ all this is just my experience, some people swear by Greens for CX so they must be ok for slower stuff (where they don't get to heat up).

That echoes my experience as well, Salmons work really well on a short descent, Green couldn't stop me for shit.

Not sure i'd get a decent clamp with the inner tube. A bit of electrical tape might do the job?

If you can get a piece of old inner tube under the jubilee clip it'll save your paintwork.

Like this?

For the girlfriend as a do-it-all bike. Hope she likes it.

If she doesnt.. its just my size..

Rogan reported for inverse grooming.

If she doesnt.. its just my size..

I'll let you know.

full Galli, headset shifter and hub less

Oh man... It's lovely !

/\
this

thank's mates

More>>https://www.flickr.com/photos/76205435n056843501773/with/14598129795/

i like that gaston always curtiously waits for approval before he posts extra shots.
or is in some genius internet marketing firm?!

Should have a white zip-tie rather than a black one holding the cables together. But fuck me, that's lovely.

CAAD10, second attempt. Better photos later.

^^^^ Beautiful bike Gaston, had me a blue frame like that in 1980, my first fixed gear - I was an early puppy killer.

Carbon seatpost, steel frame, Tacx paste: how much torque?

What's the clamp bolt? What's the seat post? With an M6 bolt and no specific instructions from the post manufacturer, I'd say max 8Nm, and I've used that with good quality (Easton) kit, but it's probably enough to kill some stupid-light posts.

I have an Easton post in a steel frame, and after clamping to 7Nm the post still moves side to side. Will the Tacx paste sort this or should I call the whole thing off?

My concern is that because the frame apparently takes 29.4mm seatposts, it has been used with shims before and the clamping diameter may not be too exact any more.

Always Tacx paste, but if it's rocking from side to side you have problems mere paste can't solve.

I don't mean side to side I don't think, I mean that the saddle can still be rotated by hand. I think I managed to scratch the seatpost in doing so, so it isn't easy, but I don't think it's ridable without solving it first.

Finished building my pub bike/beater last night.

Still need to drop the stem, my god it's heavy.

Still need to drop the stem, my god it's heavy.

I don't mean side to side I don't think, I mean that the saddle can still be rotated by hand. I think I managed to scratch the seatpost in doing so, so it isn't easy, but I don't think it's ridable without solving it first.

Doesn't sound ridable