Current Projects chat and miscellany

I nearly bought it but I couldn't get there to collect it

what?! when was he selling?

Sorry, i meant before he bought it in the first place from the original owner

oh... ): getting my hopes up spatr

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u406/umop3pisdn11/20140221_185626_zpslzayfthd.jpg

Maximal slammage achieved

Couldn't resist building it up. now if only the snow would melt..

^ Shouldn't work, but it does. Is there enough seatpost in the frame? Or is that not its final position?

Seatpost is at the "max insert" right now, it will probably go down ~2cm. I don't want to scratch it unnecessarily so I'll adjust it when i do the first ride.

Now I miss that frame, aha looks sweet though. I wanted to try yellow and red splash tape on it at one point.

Welcome to the Donohue 853 and Integralter club!

love those wheels

fancy swapping for purple phils to archetypes? :)

Actually I might (funnily enough I had already thought about asking you a couple of months back), what spoke count?

Finished converting to a SSMTB with 65 inches for the roads:

Most fun ive had on a bike in a long time.

After fixing the Frog stem, and enjoying the benefits of now having a stem I can actually adjust, I rode out to Cambridge. It is a really lovely bike to ride, but the seatpost and saddle both slipped a little over the course of the journey. I'm not sure if it's me being over-cautious with the tightening (really need to buy a torque wrench) or a problem which I need to address. I might get an inline seatpost anyway as when the saddle isn't slipping, it is quite far forward.

It seems impossible to get a picture which reflects how nice the colours actually are. But this one does a good job of illustrating how the geometry means it doesn't get on with Race Blades.

If the saddle is far forward, why would you swap for inline?

Got any crabon paste? whack a bit of that in the seat tube, and stop buying cheap ass parts.

Also, excellent race blade installation work there!

When it isn't slipping back, I have it quite far forward, so I think with an inline it would be better.

I didn't take a lot of time over the Race Blade installation, admittedly, but it didn't seem to have the adjustability to actually make it flush.

I was thinking the same, TM... I think he means it's slammed forward, so with an inline it could be clamped in the middle of the rails for the same absolute position.

Looks nice, Tommmmm, by the way.

Did you get rid of the grey 853 bike?

I've still got that but I'm keeping it for summer because it has nicer, newer parts. This one was a generally unnecessary addition but it was so cheap it seemed rude not to.

Ah. Gotcha. I know the feeling all too well.

I'm with you. Thomson laybacks only have 15mm (or some of them do I think), would that be better suited rather than inline?

Race blade wise, sliding the guard through the brackets helps, not sure if you've tried/realised that.

As I said before, there's one of these in Leeds that I sometimes get the train with (in much rattier state than yours), the details on the frame are awesome.

Tommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Sumo/Regal advised me to use copper slip on my seat post when I was suffering the same issues

I think that's a good idea. Red grease is not, I am learning.

And no, I didn't realise you could slide the guards. I'm a clown.

Tommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Sumo/Regal advised me to use copper slip on my seat post when I was suffering the same issues

Tacx carbon paste would be better, despite the name it works just as well to prevent slipping on metal to metal interfaces.

On the other hand, an aluminium post is a steel frame shouldn't slip unless you're a real porker, as long as you tighten it properly, which is where the torque wrench comes in. 8Nm is about right.