Current Projects chat and miscellany

tried the retouch, colours a close call,but not close enough, finish is not right, so will leave au naturel at mo

What's going on here?

calling mdcc_tester, calling mdcc_tester, wipperman are go, I repeat, wipperman are go.

Just measured some spare 1Z1 links which are sitting on my desk, they are 3.5mm between the inner plates. That should be more than enough for any ⅛" (3.175mm) chainring. If the chainring teeth really are touching both inner plates at once, they are substantially over width.

Grab hold of the chain where it is fully engaged and see if you can wiggle it from side to side. If you can, the width is OK.

A 7Z1 is about 2.75mm between inner plates and will squeeze onto a ⅛" ring which is actually 3mm, as some are. I've just tried this on a Stronglight track ring, and it's not hard to get on, but you can definitely feel the friction as you pull the chain off the teeth. It's possible that an error has occurred and you're trying to use a 7Z1 on a track ring.

Can you tell I'm supposed to be training? Tech chat as displacement activity :-)

Clearances are tidy.

Anyone got any experience fitting Chromoplastics to a conventional steel road frame?

I tried installing my pair yesterday and they won't fit.

I got the front mudguard on and lined up with no rub but then on this morning's commute I discovered that using the front brake pushes the mudguard sideways onto the tyre making a horrible noise. On the rear, there simply isn't space between the tyre and the seatstay/brake bridge.

The frame has mudguard eyes so it's clearly been designed to run with mudguards. Sure I just installed 28mm tyres but surely 25mm tyres would barely make any difference at all (especially on the rear). I have a spare pair of 105 callipers which might solve the issue at the front but not the back.

Your tyres are too big. Most toad bikes with guards are designed for 25mm max.

You may get away with using racebade long guards with 28s. Maybe.

Fuck. I enjoyed the solitary ride with my Paselas (about to be 2 rides). Luckily I got some 25mm Conti 4 seasons in the same box. I guess I'll try them on.

Happen to me as well, the majority of frame that claim to be able to have 28mm and mudguard can only take up to 25mm realistically.

25mm is still a lots more comfortable than 23mm.

The Gotti is turning into a basket/ pub/ silly bike.

wow. paintjob looks mental.

explains the username btw

lovely!....but is it too small for you?

WAY too small. I used to ride this fixed and it was like riding a low pro so wasnt too bad. This is actualy realy comfy with the risers (and silly hight stem).

tried the retouch, colours a close call,but not close enough, finish is not right, so will leave au naturel at mo

for the six hundred nicker you're punting it out for i'd at least expect rimmel :P

Almost finished the pub bike... Had to fit a 23 rear tyre as 25 was rubbing....

I think the Corima looked better without the Zen

I think I might agree, waiting to see if it grows on me.

Pub bike?!?!?

for the six hundred nicker you're punting it out for i'd at least expect rimmel :P

as usual, you're mistaken, that's the nautilus, this is the stratocaster

nice dinner plate on the front and back

...Tech chat as displacement activity :-)
Problem solved: it was the sprocket!

The profile of the teeth is too square, meaning they are too long at the tip. This was pulling the chain taught creating something like chain suck as the chain left the sprocket towards the ring.

Not a cheapo either: brand new, £20 Surly.

Curiously, a new 7Z1 I have knocking about, also measures 3.4mm between the inner plates.

nice dinner plate on the front and back

74.5ish gi and great for picnics!

Must get around to a cleanup and some decent pics at some stage.

mid 90s Mike Kowal pursuit frame. weird size 49x56cm! Never had a mech hanger or any evidence in the paint that a axle mounted one was fitted, but does have a rear brake hole. Never seen another one anything like it so assume it was made to order for someone somewhere?
Anyway, built it to use on the actual track (Glasgow),but then tried it out with a pile of parts from the back of the shed (inc Blackspire north shore stem, solid) and it just stuck. Few weeks back wrapped most of the frame in electrical tape to protect from stone chips and rub from the mudguards as the paintjob is mint aside a few chips.

The fork doesn't really belong,but rides tight enough. Really need a 21c for front and a 19c for the rear, with a 21c in the rear as you see it is as close as I can run the wheel into the seat tube recess. With a 19 I could take 1 or 2 sets of links out of the chain and get it proper close, though the chainstay is already comically short.
The stem isn't cut any shorter as I need that for when its in track guise, a set of criterium drops go in the same stem and the stem sits at the top of the stack, even then the bottom of the drops is about level with the tyre!

Thanks man. Finished it so late in fall that i haven't really had the chance to ride it properly yet but i'm quite sure i won't part with this for quite some time. In hindsight i kind of wish i'd chosen disc brakes as well, but then i have a rain/shiteweather bike with discs so i stuck to cantis. Tyres are 32mm paselas. Profile is kind of quirky due to narrow rims. Will be building a wider and stronger wheelset next spring. It's actually fillet brazed. At least the front triangle. Front rack is off again.

It's a nice clean build, looks better uncluttered of discs or rack!

I've got some Stan's Iron Cross rims which have an internal bead to bead of 20mm, on which 28mm Conti 4 Seasons measure 31mm wide. They is disc only rims though...

Planning on keeping them with 32mm Paselas, or occasional CX tyre outtings, and waiting for some Archetype rims to build up for faster 25/28mm tyres.

I liked the bike better before pub. Just give it here please : |

Me?

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