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• #82552
rotafix?
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• #82553
rotafix?
won't help with the lockring
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• #82554
pictures from the side?
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• #82555
Cable will go out through that thing under the seat clamp bolt to a centre pull Dura Ace AX caliper.
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• #82556
ahhh.... so your drilling the post so the cable can come through..... done it yet? worked out ok?
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• #82557
have a vice?
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• #82558
I'm playing around with some ideas on an old cheap seatpost. Just drilling a hole in either side of the post isn't working - there's no way to get the cable to go into the rear hole (fnar) when the post is in.
The current thinking is that I'll dremel or hacksaw a thin slot up the front and back of the seatpost, terminating in a drilled hole at the top to prevent stress. Then I can install the cable, and slide the seatpost down with the cable in place, the slots going around it, if that makes sense. Hopefully because it's all below the clamped area, it's not going to snap and give me an unwanted probing... -
• #82559
What kind of seatpost setup would the bike have come with?
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• #82560
i like this type of problem solving. the frame builder must have had a solution to this conundrum?
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• #82561
?Interesting question - dunno. Frame's custom built by Argos, they must have supplied some sort of seatpost with it. I think a slot down the back and front is the way to go, that would allow easy seatpost removal and height adjustability. I'm wondering whether it's taking out too much material
The frame needs two very specific components to work properly - this seatpost thing and a top mounted shifter, sadly they've been separated at some point in its history.
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• #82562
Might be easier to do it the other way around first depending on what the whole looks like on the other side of the frame? Needle and thread, then thread with cable attached and pull back?
Will look neat once sorted.
Edit: oh exit has a bend to it. Interesting .)
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• #82563
The bend on exit is the tricky part. The bend is the reason that you can't thread a cable through with a seatpost in even if the holes were perfectly in place...
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• #82564
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• #82565
This project is turning out to take alot of time and alot more cash then i originally planned :/ So to get it on track i had to buy another complete bike to slaughter and use for parts as even lower end campy seem to cost a fortune when bought piece by piece.
Project, poor pic but it looks pretty nice live.
Donor
Should be able to keep budget unless counting hours in which case its most likely double even at minimum wage :)
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• #82566
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• #82567
lock-ring well and truly locked. even put my lock-ring tool inside a piece of scaffolding pole for extra leverage. can anyone recommend a decent bike shop in the Islington / holloway road area? don't really use bike shops.
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• #82568
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• #82569
I think it may be one of my favourite forum bikes ever (there I said it!)
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• #82570
"...I think a slot down the back and front is the way to go, that would allow easy seatpost removal and height adjustability. I'm wondering whether it's taking out too much material."
Years ago I had a seatpost like that, with a 2-3" oblong cutout on both sides. Never knew what it was for, but it must have been for this or something similar. Mind you, the bottom inch or so was intact, so you'd still have to loosen the cable in order to remove the seatpost. Then again, how often do you do that?
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• #82571
Thanks for the kind words guys. I'll let you know TM, but I don't think about selling this any time soon (perfect t-rex geo at 59st and 56,5tt).
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• #82572
I don't see it happening any time soon (: genuinely interested though...
And yeah, great geo, would be able to run a layback and a 120mm stem...
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• #82573
What kind of seatpost setup would the bike have come with?
Tommmm, with reference to your seatpost woes, me Julie bought an Omega frame that had a heavily cut down and sanded 31.6 post in it.
Transpires that what it needed (and was apparently perfectly standard) was a 30.6mm shim that sits inside the lugged area, and takes a standard sized seatpost.
Would a 27.2 shim go in there, allowing a 26.8 post to be used for example?
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• #82574
And yeah, great geo, would be able to run a layback and a 120mm stem...
Exactly what I'm running right now!
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• #82575
The bend on exit is the tricky part. The bend is the reason that you can't thread a cable through with a seatpost in even if the holes were perfectly in place...
drill the holes and then glue a bit of cable outer or plastic tubing into the post? might make guiding the cable through easier?
Locking is well stuck on. its 20T, i use 15T...... but almost finished-ish.