Current Projects chat and miscellany

I don't really like the silver post either but it's not every day you get offered a 29.8mm post for free, I bent the one that came with it, I might try and get a thomson layback, unsure on it now though.

^^ I think the word you are searching for is 'shed' :-)

Nah, definitely not a shed. It's indoors, for starters. The shed (aka The Bicycle Palace) is still a work in progress. I haven't finished off fitting the guttering, for starters.

Should I make my own thread for this bike or is that too ostentatious? Or just stop spamming this one?

Anyway, the seatpost is pretty well stuck but I will try the Coke trick with it tomorrow and see if that gets rid of it. I need to swap the cranks but that is going to be really complicated. At the moment, it has a nasty Octalink FSA crankset, which I want rid of but I don't have the right notched BB tool.

I want to put on it the Miche cranks I have on a different bike, but with a Campag Veloce BB, which again requires a different BB tool which I don't have. Definitely want to change the drivetrain soon though, I did a skid today and something moved which shouldn't move.

I did manage to get an Aldi tool kit for £19.99 today though, so I now have a Shimano BB tool, of sorts. Also fitted a brake today (boo) and spotted some potential repaired damage to the top tube (see pics).

And found another possible problem, which is that the forks' natural dropout width without a wheel in is about 110mm or more, and that doing up the track nuts on the front wheel is what brings them in. Is this a sign of damage, or could that be deliberate? Is it likely to heal itself through riding, or does it need attention?

Here's some more nice pictures anyway.

Filth:

Previous colour:

Damage?

Could that be where a braze on for a rear brake cable has been filed off?

I think I have those bb tools btw

might as well buy caustic soda, its really cheap and will 100% guarantee do the job. Probably cheaper than genuine coke

Could that be where a braze on for a rear brake cable has been filed off?

youd think there would be three of them if that was the case?

Dont ruin those ellipses with a brake!

I'm thinking of getting a cheap wheelset for this, keeping the Ellipses for the track, and selling my cursed track tubulars instead.

have you considered taking a level photograph?

ftfy

Dan, I take it there's been no word from the rozzers about the Canyon?

nothing. My experience with stolen bikes is as such: assume it's gone once it's gone. If it turns up, bonus.

Dan, what brakepads are you planning to use? inquiring mind like to know.

I will tell you tomorrow when I have recovered from hard ride and three pints.

Probably a ceramic specific pad toe-d in correctly.

I can only find one pads for campagnolo which is koolstop that was appalling, go and get pissed and sleep it off.

Enjoying my brooklyn set up like this on my holiday, still haven't bothered to get the bloody levers aligned.

You probably hear it all the time, but from this picture it looks like there is about 35-40cm of seatpost showing a saddle to bar drop of about 20-25 cm's which is really far to much. I have the same t-rex problem as you do, and on my Cinelli I had the same crazy seatpost setup (only a little less seatpost), it rode fine/good untill I found a frame that fitted better. So I'd really look for a better fitting frame.

Indra needs a high pro.

it looks like there is about 35-40cm of seatpost showing .

Seems unlikely, no more than 30cm would be my guess. If you twist your head a bit to make the ground plane level, the drop looks to be within the range seen on well fitted bikes of humans with body proportions within the 95th percentile. No Orang-utans needed.

Saddle to bar drop is almost similar to mine, he's just shit at levelling his photo.

Nothing a +17 degree stem won't fix.

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I can only find one pads for campagnolo which is koolstop that was appalling, go and get pissed and sleep it off.

Ur thanks..

There seems to be a lot of mixed opinion about ceramics and braking in the wet - but most of it seems to be down to using a decent pad and making sure the brakes are toed in so the front of the pad hits the rim first (and clears the water from the braking surface) before you apply pressure. I'm going to go with a swiss stop ceramic to start with and if that doesn't work, something else.

If you've been using pads that aren't ceramic specific it's quite likely the softer pads will have left residue on the braking surface too...

I thought we'd all agreed that the "t-Rex fit" syndrome was actually just a marketing ploy by Ed to help him sell his collection of poorly fitted bicycles? :)

Commuterized the BJ.

....and yes a veloflex record is a sensible wet weather commuting tyre.

There seems to be a lot of mixed opinion about ceramics and braking in the wet - but most of it seems to be down to using a decent pad and making sure the brakes are toed in so the front of the pad hits the rim first (and clears the water from the braking surface) before you apply pressure. I'm going to go with a swiss stop ceramic to start with and if that doesn't work, something else.

If you've been using pads that aren't ceramic specific it's quite likely the softer pads will have left residue on the braking surface too...

It's frustrating as Koolstop is the only one I found that fit Campagnolo brake shoes, and now the rims feel a little worn (I can feel the outline of the machined sidewall now), nothing I do help improved the braking performance in the wet, if anything it's worse than normal rims.

While searching I found Dura Ace Ceramic pads, which I might order with a Shimano shoes and see if it fit on the Campag brakeset, hopefully may make a difference.

I've fitted shimano and koolstop shoes to Campag brakes before. Shimano were a bit fiddly to set up but still worked.

Those DA ones are generally well reviewed.