Current Projects chat and miscellany

That's part of the plan, I have the cut line already (if you squint you can see a black line on the pic). My concern is the fixing, really. And something that won't rattle.

apologies! did not see..
if you want to keep that position i agree with apollo

Need some help installing a Gilles Berthoud rear mudguard on my tourer. They are a good 3cm away from the little bridge between stays, and said bridge is not drilled. I'd like to keep them exactly in this position, so they're a nice consistent distance from the tyres, but wondering what's the best workaround?

My suggestion: drill a second hole a little above the first. Find some plastic pipe with about the same diameter as the chainstay bridge, cut a length to fit the gap. Loop a cable tie around the chainstay, through the pipe, through the old and new holes in the guard, and back through the pipe.

Drill the bridge.?

then

just space out a long bolt and do it up tight.?

(imo)

My suggestion

that's not a bad idea, I like the way of thinking. I managed to put together something that is totally improvised and makes taking the wheel off a nightmare. I think your suggestion also will make things complicated with removing the wheel, but then I might just add a couple of zip ties to the saddle bag. Might do the trick. Thanks.

New longer and lower stem on my TCR. Only a minor change, but it marks the first of a few summer upgrades. I stupidly bought a deda zero 1 in white and black from Condor as there were no blacks in stock. I'm pretty sure they're not going to take it back. A bit of a frustrating waste of money. Anyway I'm happy with the Pro. Also annoyingly I don't have a 3mm bit for the torque wrench, so I couldn't use the ti bolts I have, which would have dropped the stem from 129g to 118g - not a giant saving I admit, but a 118g stem for £20 isn't bad.

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/236F6C55-67E7-429B-8221-6C2E10CB26B1-3081-000003F42566C850_zps9081b77a.jpg

One thing that's a PITA is that you need a lot of spacers because the steerer plug isn't low enough:

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/5507a52b-51a3-4c49-9b48-5df1c5aaa6f9_zps7f1fe539.jpg

Is there anyway to move those things down yourself, or do you need a special tool?

Funny, originally I had so many plans to change small bits. However, I've been a bit short the last year and just wasn't that bothered.

Still some upgrades will be coming and it's less garish than it was.

To Do:

• trim steerer
  
• buy compact 6750 chainset (dispite its uglyness there's less BB hassle)
  
• Confirm spoke lengths and build new wheels
  
• settle on stem length and remove silver PTL bits from the stem and also remove the well worn Giant logos from the bars.
  
• switch to keos when the delta cleats wearout
  
• replace all the red bit to black (probably won't ever happen though)
  

The bung should be a hex nut, stick your multi-tool in that bad boy and twist!

Loosen it slowly and slide it down.

thanks ed, I assume it was a rep attempt :)

^^ thanks. I'll have a little play, I'm guessing its most likely to be 4mm(?).

Worse case its something a shop will sort out when/if I get the steerer cut.

You dont need to drill anything! A normal mudguard clip should work. Failing that just stick a cable tie on to hold it in place.

My suggestion: drill a second hole a little above the first. Find some plastic pipe with about the same diameter as the chainstay bridge, cut a length to fit the gap. Loop a cable tie around the chainstay, through the pipe, through the old and new holes in the guard, and back through the pipe.

This, except Moth, did you mean to loop the cable tie around the bridge instead of the chainstay?
Also, instead of a second hole in the fender, you could shape aluminum into a dog bone shape, place it between the fender and tire and then loop the cable tire around the narrow part of the aluminum piece before sending it back through the same fender hole.

Current Stash :o)

new pedals, saddle and bottle cage/reason to post a pic of my bike

excuse the saddle angle, seat post slipped position

Looking lovely there mate!

Awesome frame that.

I've a Charge Plug Freestyler at the moment, but I'm not a fan of the paint job and the geo. Would I be better off selling just the f+f and keeping the messenger cranks and the Charge dish wheels, which I'm gonna rattle can, and buying a Precursa f+f, or should I just sell the whole thing and start from scratch?

I'd sell the whole thing and start afresh.

Pre cursa frame and forks, on one track cranks, V sprint track wheels and a cheap enough PX finishing kit and you're got a great fixed gear bike for the money.

I second the Pre-cursa idea ^

and thanks Indra and toby, very slow upgrades though :(

Slow upgrades are fine, what are you thinking next?

If it were me I'd probably go for some nice 144bcd track cranks to match the frame, maybe like sugino 75s or something.

Seat post, i been trying to decide if i want an inline Thompson or not, but a Nitto S65 would look great.

1cm shorter stem or inline?

75's are on the list, just to pricey at the moment

I\d say go for the nitto purely based on looks but if you'll find a thompson more comfy and cost effective then go for that, it'll mean keeping the same stem.

I'd sell the whole thing and start afresh.

Pre cursa frame and forks, on one track cranks, V sprint track wheels and a cheap enough PX finishing kit and you're got a great fixed gear bike for the money.

If I start from scratch it'll probably be ages before I get the cash together for the whole whack. I was thinking if I get the Pre Cursa I could just do bit by bit upgrades, but it'd be a pain in the bollocks splitting everything and trying to sell it over here.

don't listen to indra. listen to scoble.

he would say change stem first.

Current Stash :o)

Might be an old question, but what are the bottle cages?

don't listen to indra. listen to scoble.

he would say change stem first.

Just because he said he was gonna change the seatpost and was on a budget.