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  • Picked this up today

    Shout out to my boy pooface for doing the lug detailing

    Lovely stuffs

  • V-Drome MK ll

  • dont you already have one?

  • Completed this last night...

    http://www.lfgss.com/post3526816-150.html

  • wow -nice

  • It's all about Tandems for 2013.

  • Picked this up today

    Shout out to my boy pooface for doing the lug detailing

    Woah Woah woaaaaaaa wait a sec... That crown! I used to have a road frame similar to this but could never find out who made it! Any ideas?

  • Where's the photo?

  • Completed this last night...

    http://www.lfgss.com/post3526816-150.html

    looks fun.

  • dont you already have one?

    Sent it back last week as I've recently found out that its a tad too big for me and got a smaller one instead and it just return the following week! :) good service with Canyon.com

  • so basically you've done an inversed JB on canyon.com.

  • Well it's a strange story really, as canyon's website allows you to put your measurements in to fit the correct bike and initially I got recommended a small but when I checked out to pay it changed over to a medium... :/

  • Their site is known to be a little off when it come to sizing.

    Still a lots better than asking me to choose a frame size for you.

  • I always think pignonfixe means 'fixed pidgeon' which gives context to some of the Gaston's replies

  • *pidgeon

    but yeah haha, same, I used the #fixedgearpigeons on Instagram too

  • yeah thatsactually the context I meant

  • Soooo... I've managed to pick up a Trek Multitrack 721 frame (well, whole bike) on the cheap. I've never before had the luxury of choosing what frame to build bikes on, but I need to build myself a new SS (old bike got nicked) and was going to get this frame resprayed at Armourtex and build it up with new components (probably a set of Shimano 4400 wheels I've got lying around, or find a flip-flop hub).

    Anyway, I don't know if it's worth its salt. I'm 6'2, the frame's 58cm (23") (so maybe a bit small? I'm not sure)... and boasts that it's "Monotube Cro-Moly" on a sticker on the frame. Opinions please? Is this worth spending money getting resprayed and building on, or should I try and find something better? I need something which can take a pannier rack and mudguards, and a frame lock, and a naff kickstand (yeah I know, I know, this is my commute bike, not racing bike :P) - so this is functionally perfect, but...

    Opinions? :)


  • If I were you, take it to a LBS and ask them if the chain is worn or not, if it is, you may need to replace the chain.

    there's a chance the entire drivetrain may also need replacing if it's worn beyond to the cassette as well as the chainring.

    check the rims for wear - if the braking surface feel flat (not concaved), then a new brake pads is all it needed.

    gear/brake cable, if it felt a bit stiff/hard to shift, it may need lubicated, or worse, replacing the cable.

    hard to tell without looking at the bicycle.

  • Why respray? It's a commute bike, who cares what it looks like and having a flash paint job will just attract attention? Just rebuild it and see how it fits, if you decide you love the frame and you can't stand the colour then fine get it sprayed but I wouldn't bother.

  • Yeah, the chain's past its end of life - also incompatible with the 9-speed cassette on my Tiagra wheels (originally a 7-speed). I was going to redo the whole drivetrain anyway as a SS, replacing chain and all gears. Just need to figure out whether to convert my existing wheel to SS with one of those spacer/conversion kits (keeping the freewheel), or get a new dedicated wheel... And yeah, brake pads worn too. The main thing is that I want to use a pair of bullhorn handlebars on it, and a threadless stem I've got, so whether it's worth going to all the bother of buying a threadless/threaded adaptor etc etc or whether the frame's rubbish and I might as well start elsewhere...

  • I was an ass and didn't clean my road bike after taking it out in January when it got a bit grimy and now I'm back training properly I find that the rear brake calliper doesn't quite spring all the way open. I've cleaned it now and everything runs smoothly but still the calliper only springs back to about 80% open, it's only when I manually separate the arms of the brake that it opens fully.

    I don't think it's the cabling because everything else seems smooth. There is some small rust on the return spring, might this be the problem? I'm unconvinced. Is the most likely scenario that there is still dirt somewhere in the mechanism and I need to remove, dismantle and clean the whole calliper thoroughly? If so is this reasonably easy, I've not taken a brake apart before.

    Brakes are SRAM Rival.

  • ^^ doesn't it have vertical dropouts? A bit of a limitation, no?

    I would nick the rack and guards, sell it on for the same as you paid, and then find a frame with horizontal ones/a better quality steel.

  • I was an ass and didn't clean my road bike after taking it out in January when it got a bit grimy and now I'm back training properly I find that the rear brake calliper doesn't quite spring all the way open. I've cleaned it now and everything runs smoothly but still the calliper only springs back to about 80% open, it's only when I manually spear the arms of the break that it opens fully.

    I don't think it's the cabling because everything else seems smooth. There is some small rust on the return spring, might this be the problem? I'm unconvinced. Is the most likely scenario that there is still dirt somewhere in the mechanism and I need to remove, dismantle and clean the whole calliper thoroughly? If so is this reasonably easy, I've not taken a brake apart before.

    Brakes are SRAM Rival.

    They're simple dual pivots. It's unlikely you'll need to dismantle them.

    There is likely a little corrosion/dirt in the center pivot (this one is the most exposed to road grime). Take it off the bike, take the pads off it, and shoot it with some wd-40 or gt-85 while actuating it manually to work it in. Then maybe even apply a drop of lube to each pivot, wipe off the excess thoroughly and re-install. It should be fine, and I doubt the corrosion on the spring is the problem.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag

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