Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • Yeah that paintjob's pretty wack

  • Raw, one 853 sticker and Gunmetal decals.

  • Raw, one 853 sticker and Gunmetal decals.

    Yeah, leaning towards this. It's a shame the Graham Weigh typeface is so horrible. I like what Tommmmmmmmmmm did with his, but I don't know if I'll even bother with getting new Weigh decals. Maybe, as Tommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm discussed, just 'Graham'.

  • Just Weigh would be better imo.

  • There's something so lovely about the name 'Graham' though.

    Sold some wheels recently that were laced by Keith at Deeside cycles. They have a 'Keith' sticker on the rim.

  • Also got these (apart from the middle one, which is for sale) going on -
    531c CX frame and Bob Jackson 2x700c lo pro. Both are bent though, so off to a framebuilder friend-of-a-friend next week to get them sorted.
    http://i.imgur.com/T3IgMBdh.jpg

  • Yeah, leaning towards this. It's a shame the Graham Weigh typeface is so horrible.

    From a distance it also looks like it says 'Weich' or 'Welch' instead of Weigh.
    I wouldn't think twice about abandoning the typeface, it's shit.

  • "No. Your saddle movement, assuming it was done to keep the saddle to BB distance constant, would need the bars raised to keep the triangle unchanged."

    Note that I said lower it slightly... Saddle to bottom bracket distance in itself is basically a useless measure in terms of bike fit, as it doesn't take body/leg proportion, crank length, pedals, shoe size and cleat adjustments into consideration. Really you want to look at hip/thigh/knee/calf/foot positioning over the course of a full rotation of the crank, while maintaining the optimal reach and upper body position. But you already know that.

    #bikefitforbeginners

  • Yeah, we're assuming that his feet and legs won't change size when he gets the spanners out.

  • Stem needs slamming, saddle positioning looks ridicules... Fixing that can be achieved without fucking up the overall fit.

  • You can tell all that without ever seeing the rider on it?

  • Yes.

  • Lynchmanfitz™

  • Note that I said lower it slightly... Saddle to bottom bracket distance in itself is basically a useless measure in terms of bike fit, as it doesn't take body/leg proportion, crank length, pedals, shoe size and cleat adjustments into consideration. Really you want to look at hip/thigh/knee/calf/foot positioning over the course of a full rotation of the crank, while maintaining the optimal reach and upper body position. But you already know that.

  • A romin saddle and some bar tape and it's track ready.

    See you down track side old man! :p

  • Graham Weigh 853 frame

    Now that I've decided to keep it, I'm trying to work out what to do with the paint/decals as it's currently horrific (the fuck is wrong with Graham Weigh?)

    http://i.imgur.com/nB9ptPr.jpg

    On the one I had the decals were fairly thick. I wondered whether I could carefully cut them off and then gently sand back over them to smooth out the paintjob ( maybe a clear coat if needed).

    What do you think?

    Personally I like the overall paintjob. But I agree the decals look great and don't even look as though the name is spelt correctly.

  • Yeah, leaning towards this. It's a shame the Graham Weigh typeface is so horrible. I like what Tommmmmmmmmmm did with his, but I don't know if I'll even bother with getting new Weigh decals. Maybe, as Tommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm discussed, just 'Graham'.

    I went for just 'Weigh' in the end but I do refer to the bike as 'our Graham'.

    Really not sure what they're thinking with the decals, their new generation is equally fugly.

    Lovely bike you've got there though, I saw it on Ebay and wished it was bigger. The downtube is great. The bike might be made by Paul Donahue for Graham Weigh, as mine seems to have been.

  • Lynchy and Testy, I haven't ridden it yet, the bars, saddle (which isn't even the saddle I'm gonna use) are not in their final position. Thanks for the input, though.

    Carry on.

  • Nice bike by the way... ;)

  • I've used one of these in the past to make a dual pull brake for polo. Do you intend to make both levers pull the same caliper?

    I think it would work fine, but the action will be much more effective if the wire is nice and straight out of the outer, I made a bar with one cable at each end so that the cables pulled straight.

    I am going to use the centre hole as one of the cable guides and hope the cable pull is not too rough on the second lever- been trying to use one long bolt to grip the cable with 2 square plates to hold each cable, just waiting for the new calipers to arrive then can set up.

  • I am going to use the centre hole as one of the cable guides and hope the cable pull is not too rough on the second lever- been trying to use one long bolt to grip the cable with 2 square plates to hold each cable, just waiting for the new calipers to arrive then can set up.

    Forgot to ask, drop levers or MTB type? Having a second set of barrel adjusters would make things much easier.

    Post a pic when you're done.

  • yeah drops, do you mean in-line adjusters? The only issue I have is the cable pull really and not too bothered if the left hand is a bit rougher as its only going to be for emergencies like when signalling/ turning right and going down hill

  • Getting close to finishing the Klein. Temporary paint for now, I want some flip paint on there but its not cheap. I built the whole thing on a budget around £700-£800. Just waiting on cable end stops and rear mech.

    Also gave the Dolan a little spruce.

  • that klein is looking awesome

  • ^ Yup dis.

    Can we see the All City with new finishing kit?

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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