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• #73727
PTFE will help the threads engage for sure, but i'm not sure how much i'd trust it. how much of the cup catches the thread?
I'd say approx 2/3 of the thread engage OK, which is not bad, but there is some play between the cup and the shell until the cup touch the bearings.
I was afraid to tight the lockring too much in case it would pull the cup out of the BB and damage the theads...
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• #73728
Is it english threaded? Maybe get it tapped out to italian to be on the safe side?
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• #73729
If you're using a flanged BB (e.g. on the fixed cup) PTFE will be helpful as it enables you to apply greater locking force to the cup. It seems counter intuitive, but by decreasing thread friction you can obtain greater force between BB shell & cup flange.
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• #73730
Love that.
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• #73731
Loic, have you tried a different cup to see if it's still the same?
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• #73732
Loic, have you tried a different cup to see if it's still the same?
No actually, I only made sure it was british on british... When I take it out, I will try with the cup ot another BB..
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• #73733
Is it english threaded? Maybe get it tapped out to italian to be on the safe side?
Oh dear... I hope I don't have to do that... Wouldn't it be easier to use a sealed BB in that case, like the usual campag centaur, which gave me total satisfaction on the Mercian and is quite cheap? With this, not having s super tight non drive side thread would not be such a problem?
I know I said I would like to avoid this, but it would be easier / cheaper than re-thread and source a italian threaded cup?
Just wondering...
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• #73734
If you're using a flanged BB (e.g. on the fixed cup) PTFE will be helpful as it enables you to apply greater locking force to the cup. It seems counter intuitive, but by decreasing thread friction you can obtain greater force between BB shell & cup flange.
What is a flanged BB? I think I understand what you mean but I'm not sure...
Reason I though about TPFE tape was not to ease thread friction but to fill the gap that generates the play.
Ah... confused...
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• #73735
If you're trying to fill a 'gap' with ptfe, forget it. It isn't designed for that. It will help the threads engage so that you can crank them all the way home safely and positively, but it won't stop any play under load (if you get any) as it will become compressed. It's not steel, after all.
To be honest I think you're probably fine as you are. If your lockring is tight, then it's going nowhere.
Try a different cup if you're able to. Or go sealed and never think about it again.
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• #73736
The centaur you've shown above has flanges
The Miche primato and various other types do not have flanges.
with a flanged Bottom bracket It's not just the friction in the thread that holds the bb cups in the shell, it's also the force between the flange and the edge of the shell, so if you have a BB that works loose, it's often a good idea to clean and grease the threads.
PTFE tape is used to reduce thread friction and enable a greater clamping force.I think it has to be worth a try in your case - fit the bb with plumbing tape and take it for a ride round the block and see if it comes loose....
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• #73737
where can i buy this part?
Maybe one of these and a dremel? Or even cheaper, find a couple of older ones from a trashed, department store frame.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/replacement-dropouts-dept669_pg1/#page=1&page=1&order=PRICE%20ASCENDING -
• #73738
If you're trying to fill a 'gap' ...
The centaur you've shown above has flanges...
Thanks guys, this all makes perfect sense... I bought some tape at lunch time... 65p a roll, worth trying! But point taken about the fact it will compress...
I'm sure I have a british cup to try in my box of crap, will do that to ensure that the problem does not come from the campag cup (saying that, I remember that I took that BB off my roberts when I bought it, and I did not notice that it was particularely loose at the time)
I'll consider a sealed bearing BB ultimately if it goes wrong...
Ta!
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• #73739
for fitting racks without mounts, fitzrovia cycles fitted my Gamoh rack with a plate that goes over your dropout and has two loops coming off it to fit a rack and mudguards, works really well and is secure. I have no idea what they're called but maybe call up and ask them. looks like a large washer.
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• #73740
^ pic?
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• #73741
Getting cold feet about spending £500+ on a the new Brother Reynolds 725 track frame.
really struggling to find a 80/90's frame for less and in my size and everything
humphhh
What size are you after? I'd have thought there were lots of options out there?
TFG Dart looks nice (@£300)
I have Ugg-esque slippers, which I am too ashamed to answer the door in
Where do you get these? I tired some Ugg ones on in the airport when I was bored once and they were the most amazing thing I have ever put on my feet. But they are also +£100 for slippers.
Is it english threaded? Maybe get it tapped out to italian to be on the safe side?
Do you know anyone who will do this?
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• #73742
A good bike shop should have a set of taps
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• #73743
Crash replacement bar and brake levers with new cabling make a lovely difference.
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• #73744
What size are you after? I'd have thought there were lots of options out there?
TFG Dart looks nice (@£300)
Not really what i'm after, the tokyo fixed S2 is more what i'm after, its nice, but just don't really float my boat for some reason.
anyway, found my self a Joe Waugh which should do okay
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• #73745
Where do you get these? I tired some Ugg ones on in the airport when I was bored once and they were the most amazing thing I have ever put on my feet. But they are also +£100 for slippers.
No idea. Got them as a joke christmas present but who's laughing now
Sticker on the bottom of one says Debenhams -
• #73746
This arrived today, it's been passed around the forum like a..... old....bike.....
Unknown track frame 531, 60's-70's, nice lugs, campagnolo ends. Tight for its age. WillPalmer, Rodolfo, benjybars and Hippy are just some of the past owners. I want to build it from vintage-ish components(open to offers for bits and bobs), but think i Will chuck it together with part bin parts for now and test her out.Only issue, the forks look like they have been cut and shortened(frame number and forks have same number so am quite sure they are original)....My real concern is safety. I love the double crown fork, but love my teeth more. It has a second bar inside joining the two sections. Why would this have been done? Is it safe?.......Am i going to die(i know we all will one day)?
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• #73747
measure whats in the karma bank and let us know...
btw frame looks decent meaning good
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• #73748
Can´t tell from the pictures. But it looks like there is a sleeve inside the steerer tube. If the sleeve is long enough and the brazing is done right there should be no need to worry. The whole bike it held together by overlapping tubes bazed together.
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• #73749
Plus if it survived hippy riding it, it'll survive you
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• #73750
I wouldn't worry, if it's lasted this long it will continue to last, so long as it's not rusted.
PTFE will help the threads engage for sure, but i'm not sure how much i'd trust it. how much of the cup catches the thread?