Current Projects chat and miscellany

although boredom, you need to up your rep game :D

:(

B0N0R, one day you have to dig up the pictures of all the stages of this bike, it's insane (in a good way) how many times it changed.

you're not the first person to say this to me, i think i might do it some day soon. Planning another paintjob atm haha

Uh-oh...

?

Didn't realise Pepe was selling!

Resurrecting my Sid Mottram. I bought some straight forks off Doglog, which arrived today. Quick mock up and I'm liking, though I may need a slightly shorter stack headset as I've not got a lot of steerer to play with.

Before:

After:

Trying to decide whether to strip the last of the paint/generally tidy the frame up and clear coat it, or leave as is.

leave it! looks great

eamesy repped for being a badass muthafucka

btw you gar mined our little outing yet?

Ah, will do that now! Was there a thread?

Lucky to still have that Garmin after the mount snapped just after going over a cattle grid on the way to Cambridge!

leave it! looks great

Thanks :)

Thinking about a 3T chrome stem but not sure about how it will look. I did a crappy potato chop and I'm thinking yes...

Ah, will do that now! Was there a thread?

Lucky to still have that Garmin after the mount snapped just after going over a cattle grid on the way to Cambridge!

ouch

was that the funky 3d drawn thing?

I've got some chain dropping going on with my new dinglespeed setup. Has anyone had a go at this before? Any help appreciated.

The rings are cheap Stronglights, 3/32 non SS specific but no ramps or pins. I'm not losing the chain here so I think this is all good.

The chainline is good to within 1mm, the chain is a Wipperman 804 (6/7/8-speed). Chain tension is good, and is staying good with a QR (fingers crossed).

The cogs are from a Tiagra cassette with the pins ground off and taken to pieces. These have got some ramps and the usual Shimano 10sp stuff going on.

What does the forum think is going to work;

1/ switching to a 3/32" singlespeed chain
2/ using a 1/8" track chain
3/ ss specific cog on the back
4/ go back to fixed you loser
5/ fit a mech you nerd
6/ any combination of the above

1/ switching to a 3/32" singlespeed chain
2/ using a 1/8" track chain
3/ ss specific cog on the back
4/ go back to fixed you loser
5/ fit a mech you nerd
5/ any combination of the above

1 will make a tiny difference if you use a (less flexible) bushed chain, e.g. Wippermann 7R8
2 probably won't make any difference, except as for 1 if you get a bushed chain
3 a worthwhile upgrade, if the chain is falling off the sprockets
4 a tensioner will help by guiding the flappy lower chain run onto the sprockets on centre
5 yes :-)

Other things to check:
Is your chain tension uniform over a full turn of the cranks?
Is your wheel moving forward under the combination of your awesome leg power and the weak retention provided by a QR skewer?

Thanks.

The jury is still out on the QR. I lost the chain a couple of times but the wheel hadn't visibly moved. The lower of the two gears is 39x24 so I'll soon find out the limits of the QR I think. I have some bolt-end skewers to fall back on.

Tension is even when the bikes up on a stand (or upside down in a hedge where most of this evenings mechanics happened). I did wonder if the spacers on the cassette are holding the cog rigid. The cogs are separate so they might not have the stability of a whole cassette perhaps.

Right, here we go, spec list for my new build for next month, got a bit obsessed with it lately.

frame- Brother Reynolds 631 track, fork drilled.
wheels- Gran compe hubs, mavic open pro 32h, silver spokes and nipples.
tyres- 23c foldable hardshells, light weight tubes and rimtape.
drivetrain- Sugino RD2 165mm, Strong light 49t, EAI 17t-18t cogs, Izumi chain.
pedals- MKS touring and flip tab, Genetic double clips, Exustar straps.
headset- Tange (from Brother).
saddle/post- Ritchey classic, Flite.
bars-

1. Cinelli criterium 65 40cm, Nitto Dynamic 90mm, Pro-logo skin touch (everyday)
   
2. Bonti' compacts, drop levers and front brake (for roadie stuff)
   
3. risers, small Wald basket (for those chilled summer days)
   
   
   

Any one see any potential problems with those parts? I think I chosen well.

Only potential problem I can see, is that you won't like it... None of the components nor frame would be my first choice, but that's just me. I see no reason why this shouldn't end up an awesome build.

Looks immensely good like this. Is there any functional reason for the switch?

+1

The shape and crown of the old fork is much, much nicer IMO.

It's not a great pic of the yellow fork, the crown race isn't on so it's more inserted into the head tube then it should be.

My reasoning for this is that the old fork isn't original to the frame anyway, and I wanted the look of a straight bladed fork. No functional reasoning, purely aesthetics :)

Out of interest, how much thread is it safe to have on a threaded fork? I'm looking for a shorter stack headset, but I think I'm still going to come up a little short on the fork thread.

3-4 turns of the upper locknut is safe I think

I have some bolt-end skewers to fall back on.

Bolt on skewer is worse than the QR you have at the moment. You will shear the head off the bolt before you can generate the skewer tension achievable with an ordinary Shimano internal cam skewer.

3-4 turns of the upper locknut is safe I think

Thanks. I think I should be good... I'll probably look to get a Tange Passage or similar (currently have a Tange Levin), just to be as low as possible.

Picked this up on a whim yesterday. Mid nineties alu track bike. Need to figure out what to do with it now though. Could put nicer period parts on it or go the slave route.

Love the oversized look and the paintjob has a fade of two shades of yellow with some pearl effect added. Quite fancy.

Right, here we go, spec list for my new build for next month, got a bit obsessed with it lately.

frame- Brother Reynolds 631 track, fork drilled.
wheels- Gran compe hubs, mavic open pro 32h, silver spokes and nipples.
tyres- 23c foldable hardshells, light weight tubes and rimtape.
drivetrain- Sugino RD2 165mm, Strong light 49t, EAI 17t-18t cogs, Izumi chain.
pedals- MKS touring and flip tab, Genetic double clips, Exustar straps.
headset- Tange (from Brother).
saddle/post- Ritchey classic, Flite.
bars-

1. Cinelli criterium 65 40cm, Nitto Dynamic 90mm, Pro-logo skin touch (everyday)
   
2. Bonti' compacts, drop levers and front brake (for roadie stuff)
   
3. risers, small Wald basket (for those chilled summer days)
   
   
   

Any one see any potential problems with those parts? I think I chosen well.

Better cranks is the only thing I'd suggest. Proper 144 BCD jobs. For what the RD2 costs you're better off with the On-One external bearing track cranks.