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• #64877
^I'm on the lookout for a singlespeed disc CX bike/frame. 135mm rear hub, so I can use a bolt on cog & run mtb hubs. Thankfully I haven't seen one yet :-)
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• #64878
Both of you should do it- they really are the most flexible bikes going.
I do quite a lot of road training miles on mine, I did Paris-Roubaix on it, I rip round Richmond Park on it, then change the tyres and fall off it in the mud.
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• #64879
Lol! You're very convincing! ;P
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• #64880
^^I still haven't tried riding fixed! I would like a really solid Winter/English weather trainer..... Fixed with disc seems to fit that bill. I was planning to experiment with a bolt on cog with my old Explosif frame first. If I don't get on with fixed, then singlespeed + disc brake + reliable/servicable freehub would still work.
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• #64881
change the tyres and fall off it in the mud.
Change to a different tyre?
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• #64882
I've got a few different pairs, I was using Michelin Mud 2's when I crashed, I'll give the Maxxis a go next time.
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• #64883
^I'm on the lookout for a singlespeed disc CX bike/frame
On-One Pompetamine would do, surely?
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• #64884
^ 6' 7" :-(
Effective top tube on XL frame is 576mm. I'm usually comfortable between 600 - 610mm
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• #64886
^Thanks*, it looks hideous though & at that price I'd go custom. I do notice a few manufacturers producing larger frame sizes for the freak market lately, so I'll just wait for now.
*Aware that you might be taking the piss :-)
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• #64887
*Aware that you might be taking the piss :-)
It doesn't have disc mounts anyway. I just saw your height and thought "Zinn"
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• #64888
Hi guys, totally newbie to this but I'm just begrudgingly selling my tvr to get into cycling. I got donated a Reynolds 531 Overbury's frame a couple of years ago that has sat doing nothing so have thrown some new wheels on and a pretty crazy colour scheme (will post pics when I can)
I've got issues with the crank though, I'm changing it to a fixie but the crank won't come off as its threaded. Is there any clever way, other than a puller, of getting it off or is just out with hacksaw ? Other than it being threaded I'm told it's a nice crank so it seems a shame to destroy it.
Any thoughts would be awesome !
AJ
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• #64889
Welcome. ^^^^^^ I suggest you go to local bike shop, who will have correct tool. Are you sure you mean crank and not bottom bracket? Try Sheldon Brown website, too.
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• #64890
I think he means the threads on his cranks is stripped so he cant get them off. An experienced bike mechanic can deal with this, involves a lump hammer.
Got good news for you AJ, bikes are much cheaper than cars, pretty much a negligible cost to keep. You can hold onto your TVR.
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• #64891
Assuming the cranks are square taper and you dont care about the crank arm just take the crank bolt off then ride it around for a bit.
Not that I've tried this but iirc it's Sheldon's suggestion.
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• #64892
I just saw your height and thought "Zinn"
I tend to associate massive cross bikes with Ryan ( endless leg ) Trebon.
I did see this converted cross check on mtbr. I wouldn't go as far as fitting disc mounts to the frame. I could easily swap the fork, stick a canti/v brake on the rear ( which may not be needed much if run fixed )
Or could just wait till surly get round to making the disc version, as they have with the disc trucker.
Out of curiosity ( as you appear to be the LFGSS sage ;-), what do you think of Mr Zinn's opinions on crank length?
Custom made up to 220mm long!
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• #64893
Is there any clever way, other than a puller, of getting it off or is just out with hacksaw ?
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• #64894
what do you think of Mr Zinn's opinions on crank length?
He's right that very long-legged riders can use very long cranks, he's wrong to suggest that they need to. All the hard science points to crank length being irrelevant within quite a wide range, certainly wide enough that there is nobody alive so tall that they would be disadvantaged by being stuck with the widely available 175s.
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• #64895
^ Thanks. His inseam x 0.216 calculation puts me between 195 - 200mm long. I've had nothing but 175mm for about 15 years now & much prefer having a wide range of crank options.
*weight/strength/style etc...
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• #64896
Ultegra 12-27
Out of interest, are you having to space this road cassette to take into account the 135mm spacing? I ask, as I intend to fit a Tiagra 10sp cassette to my hope hubs when I get them back next week.
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• #64897
Nope, I suppose the whole cassette is 2.5mm to the right of where it would be on a road bike, but in terms of where the cassette is from the mech, it's identical to a 130mm frame- i.e. the mech/cassette relationship is unchanged.
I have been running 11-32 cassettes on this bike, using the Ultegra is something of an experiment, as the gaps between ratios on the 11-32 are pretty huge in some cases.
I got up Zoncolan on 34/27 so that should be low enough for anything the UK can throw at me!
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• #64898
Although, at 9.53kg it is a little heavier than my road bike.
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• #64899
^ 6' 7" :-(
Effective top tube on XL frame is 576mm. I'm usually comfortable between 600 - 610mm
I havent looked at the measurements, but what about a 29'er frame, as you'd expect those to be more suited to the taller fellow.
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• #64900
.. thinking of buying a steel frame for the sake of trying it out, but every time I see a sorted CX bike, I can't help but think "That looks a lotta fun, I wonder..."
PX uncle johns are cheap and practical. The new blue colour is quite nice too IMO.
I have a alu fixed that I think I finally might have got the position sorted on, and was thinking of buying a steel frame for the sake of trying it out, but every time I see a sorted CX bike, I can't help but think "That looks a lotta fun, I wonder..."
Damn you Damnit for making me do it again!