Current Projects chat and miscellany

do you guys usually install brake levers above or below the bar tape? apparently the brake lever I got on the parts with which i started this project is too wide to fit without the tape on the handlebars...

Are you speaking guydv?

http://www.lfgss.com/member33347.html

Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?

McCarthy went a bit funny after he'd been on the floor polish...

I forget that most people don't have the tool kit I do! if its alu I would still cut it with the pipe cutter to get a perfectly straight cut, but then I'd ream it out with a 40mm pipe reamer and file it with a bastard file to give it a perfect cut with no burs internal or external of the cut.[U][/U]

Even with alu I would not use a pipe cutter at all.

do it properly with a hacksaw.

No, although it can be used to mark a nice even cutting guide line on the steerer so that you have something to aim at with your hacksaw.
i was quite convinced I saw some responses in mechanics thread that this can be done.. my bad then.

I cut thick wall swagelok stainless steel with one of those this morning - I'd be surprised if it wasn't good for an aluminium steerer (wouldn't attempt steel and crabon's not an option)

The trouble with cutting a thick walled aluminium steerer with a pipe cutter is that the cut end tends to have a chamfer on it when you're done. Also, a hacksaw is much quicker.

This is very true.
You can reduce the camfer a bit by making smaller adjustments each time, but without a reamer it will screw up installing a star nut.

I really should know better than to disagree with Tester, shouldn't I?
Chalk that one up to experience! ;P

Agree with the chamfer - my swagelok cutter gives ~10deg

do you guys usually install brake levers above or below the bar tape? apparently the brake lever I got on the parts with which i started this project is too wide to fit without the tape on the handlebars...

Am I the only person who thought this was easy to understand? Maybe because of all those beers.

It depends what kind of brake levers and bars they are, but the clamp-on kind like Dia-Compe Dirt Harry or Goldfingers often need shimming, which can be done with metal shims or something like tape, as you found. Road brake levers should fit on bars without tape underneath though.

The trouble with cutting a thick walled aluminium steerer with a pipe cutter is that the cut end tends to have a chamfer on it when you're done. Also, a hacksaw is much quicker.

so now you are saying it works?
lulz.

It won't work.

You can cut an alu steerer with a pipe cutter, I've done it (when I realised my hacksaw blade was dead) but it's best used to score a nice guide for your hacksaw.

Get over it. Move on.

;)

It'll work. It'll take ages. It'll do a shit job and you have to fiddle to get it right afterwards as it mushrooms out. Getting a star nut in will be fine, a bung on the other hang might be a problem. Getting a stem may be a problem depending on the stem

^This.

lol

Visiting my parents last week I had the chance to dig out and clean up an old track bike of mine that I share with my brothers - It's a decent original build - Chater lea drivetrain, integrated headset, BB & Hubs Rims are wooden constrictor - goes like stink on the road - I think the period front brake can be excused - I'd hate to put too much strain on the rim eyelets, and skid patches on silk vittoria's can be a costly habit!!

beautiful

Nearly done got my thomson x4

Would this work to cut my fork tube?

Pipe cutter will do the job. Varying answers you've got are due to people probably using different spec blades (whatever came with their pipe cutter).

If you buy a blade/wheel that's specifically for stainless steel (much harder than the alu) then it will go through an alu steerer in just a few minutes.

Then the only issue is to ream/deburr and whether you can live with a chamfer on the edge.

Stainless blade/wheel only costs around 3 quid (Monument 284L below). If you haven't already got a pipe cutter the Monument 265 or 266 will do the job and will also have a reamer on the end if you dont have one or files in your tool kit.

(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MONUMENT-284L-SPARE-WHEEL-FOR-STAINLESS-STEEL-TUBE-PIPE-/180612499578?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a0d58087a)

Varying answers you've got are due to people probably using the right tool for the job

ftfy

Received a more period correct seatpost from Tel last night and took the photos this morning - I've been enjoying this one, surprisingly comfortable (passes the mdcc tester lo-pro test) and looks stunning

A viscious bend on the cable outers allows the aero brakes to work (with surprisingly smooth action) - no need to invert the brake levers.
Front View...

and if it's what you're into....

This was originally destined for a life of slavery (risers, deep rims, magic gear etc), but I found myself lured toward old photo's from Cycling Weekly and decided it had to be a no-frills tester ride - I'm quite pleased with it!
Groupset is a bit of a mix (Suntour Superbe Pro rear mech & Sprint hubs, Campag headset, chainset and rims, Shimano brake levers, shifter and chain, modolo calipers, and a miche BB!!! The bars are chopped & flopped cinelli criterium, the seatpost is a san marco.

The wife hates the Turbomatic and thinks I should put an old flite or Rolls on it... what's the court of public opinion say...?

I love the radiator rack.

I love the radiator rack.

also doubles as a tyre warmer

^^^ Very smart and clean, especially with the silver rims. I think a Flite would work nicely.

^ cheers - I think the polished rims & tanwall tyres work really nicely with the minimal graphics and generally spartan finish - I'll give the flite a whirl later and see how it looks.