Current Projects chat and miscellany

oh I know how about the bonding process of these frames :) Read a lot on it and I've been convinced that it works fine for a rider my size.

Good to see that, lovely colour this. Would be a shame to cease the whole build because of this!

I think thats the perfect pedal position, because its ready to be pushed down and ridden.

can be for you but like that you can see the left pédal and ther is no more hole in the picture

look my dear friend gégé's bike

pedal position is like it should be, I'm not pointing the saddle down because 'it looks better'. bars could be a bit lower though.

I don't see the 'hole in the picture'? ;-)

the nose saddle peak a little

Literally the worst person available to be offering saddle-porn advice.

peterv :I'm not pointing the saddle down because 'it looks better'.
okok you are true sorry : it's normal seatpost position

the more you are behind the saddle the saddle seting should be more like that ?
and for a Gaston position you have to peak ?
I reposte my bazou with a best picure
it's not porn only because the SP position of it because it a transformed TTbike ?

mechamorgan : hahahhhha

Good to see that, lovely colour this. Would be a shame to cease the whole build because of this!

Bad rumours have a tendency to spread like the chinese whisper game. Digested a bit they basically tells you this.

Flex problems in these frames were basically a problem with frames sized 58-60 and up. The handling for lighter riders within the max spec of 180 pounds are spot on and this frame being a 53-54 should be good enough for a lightweight training bike.

The bonding issues vitus had mainly occured with the later carbon builds and was also almost all on the 60+ sized builds. And unlike lugged and welded frames that comes apart at the weld/lug the bonds gradually lose grip over time. So the risks of a catastrophic failure is not as crazy as some people would have it.

The way I see it, a frame of that age would have given up long ago, were it going to.

Right, made a bit of a fubar.

Ordered a lovely new '09 or '10 Selle Italia SLR Fibra saddle off of ebay, which I didn't realize had 8mm carbon rails.

I take it that attempting to fit it to a normal clamp seat post ain't a good idea?

If so, are there any HHSB stylie 8mm clamp seat posts out there that people could recommend?!

What shoes are you using with these?

Panic averted!

Had checked out loads of reviews that mentioned nothing other than that the rails were carbon, finally checked out Selle Italia's site and found out the rails were 7mm x 9mm ovalised and I had measured vertically, not horizontally.

Doh!

Literally the worst person available to be offering saddle-porn advice.

What shoes are you using with these?

Normally these are to be used with special cleats (super hard to find btw) but you can use them with regular shoes. Personnaly I use them with converse...

And some pics of my Veneto with new tyres (vittoria tecno Sport TT)


Appart from the saddle, seat post and headset all the parts are french (mavic stem, pedals crankset and wheels, sachs handlebars, brakes and gears, incl. ergopowers).

Normally these are to be used with special cleats (super hard to find btw)

Thats why I ask. It seems that the better quality these toeclip pedals are the more they rely on a cycling shoe & cleat. Those Dura Ace pedals seem very uncomfortable to use in trainers. There is hardly any platform to them at all and sharp ridges that will press into your feet when grinding up hills.

fuji tracks used to / maybe still do come with very similar pedals I could never understand it because as you say the sharp ridges made holes in your shoes and hurt like crap. Why on a basic OTP???

I use these a lot without cleats (mine are super used and I don't wanna pay for new ones) and I never had pains, even after long rides.

^^ Is anyone still making a proper shoeplate/cleat for modern shoes?

If not there's got to be a market out there for an old-school cleat drilled with SPD or look hole centres

Not looked into this, but I assume there are still specialist track shoes with cleats - at least for keirin, or handmade tweed shoeplates for the afflicted (available no doubt from Rivendell) but are there any practical solutions for normal road shoes? or is the only solution scanning ebay for NOS sidi cleats?

Do you reckon it's wise to have the wheel right at the end of those dropouts...

that is possibly the worst looking 'good' bike I've ever seen

summer is here and I've not ridden fixed since I sold my Gazelle in November..

My Iro frame has been living in my mums cellar for about 2 years now (the seatpost is seized so had put selling it on hold).. today I decided to finally sort it out, so took the morning off after walking the dog and built it back up from my bits box. Now I've got a beater to plod around town on instead of expensive road bikes...

(need to sort saddle angle)

Front wheel is hilariously out of true so will sort that asap. In the long term it needs a new wheelset and will probably get a shorter stem/some cheap drops on it too.

Can't wait to ride it!

The Far East OEM manufacturers of basic everyday bits seem to copy stuff that was "current" about 20 years ago. But also on a track bike it is semi appropriate, as if you were going to use clips & straps you could be like Keirin riders?

I loved my IRO and kind of regret selling it.

Nice IRO.

I'm pretty sure you can't beat a steel fixed for bashing around on when the sun is out.

#preachingtotheconverted

they're awesome frames. Stiff-ish and light but comfy. Can't believe i've left it this long before building it back up

they're awesome frames. Stiff-ish and light but comfy. Can't believe i've left it this long before building it back up

You've just made me really want one again!

Much as i love my sword, that bike was fully awesome.

The frames always go for so little when people sell them on here - I've never really understood why - they're a whole load better than most of lugged road frames that people pay 200 quid for.