Current Projects chat and miscellany

Any in-line saddle will do fine, I got a Condor one for £20 that look exactly like the Thomson.

Frankly it's a seatpost, It's a little hard to find one that doesn't do what it said on the tin.

edit - mike dun goofed it.

In fairness it is harder to find good deals on non-27.2 and 30.6mm. Also a seatpost is not *just *a seatpost. IMO most cheap single bolt ones are shit and never give you the correct position.

But this one looks fine, sensible clamping mechanism, and cheap:Brand-X Inline 6061 Seatpost - £17.99

My new fixeh.
Custom frame by Paul Wyganowski.

• Kris Holm post and seat
  
• Stan's Tubeless converted Schwalbe 50mm tire
  
• Sun Rhyno Lite 700c rim
  
• Suzue uni hub
  
• Nimbus Venture cranks
  
• Odyssey Twisted pedals
  
  

All you haters don't need to click, it's a unicycle.

https://picasaweb.google.com/111985851870010318492/Wyganowski#5734774254771227330

This sounds awesome, where is it?

Thanks guys!

Before you buy things... are you're cleats behind the ball of your foot?

I believe so, but why?

Yes, or No are the words you're looking for?

Then it's a yes.

If you've not previously done so it might be worth experimenting with your cleats further behind the ball of the foot.

For me I found it encouraged dipping of the heals, sitting further back in the saddle and eventually what feels like a much smoother, stronger pedal stroke.

You might need to saddle a couple of mm if you do this.

I've been messing with my cleat positions. I moved my road cleats right back, and I'm getting on well with that. But getting back onto the fixed, with my cleats directly under the balls of my feet. Felt a lot nicer when getting out of the saddle for a stomp.

Confused. I am.

With the Concorde came some SPD SL pedals and some old road shoes with cleats. I like them being bigger than normal SPD pedals, so might try them this afternoon.

I've been messing with my cleat positions. I moved my road cleats right back, and I'm getting on well with that. But getting back onto the fixed, with my cleats directly under the balls of my feet. Felt a lot nicer when getting out of the saddle for a stomp.

Confused. I am.

I couldn't really sprint properly for the first couple of weeks, I think it's not so great for for sprinting actually.

Climbing out of the saddle is smoother and I can go at lower cadence easier so I can pop over the top. Long efforts uphill or going quick are just great.

My shoes have tyre scuffs, but I'm a happy man.

Link doesn't work.

Sorry, fixed, I think.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111985851870010318492/Wyganowski

I couldn't really sprint properly for the first couple of weeks, I think it's not so great for for sprinting actually.

Climbing out of the saddle is smoother and I can go at lower cadence easier so I can pop over the top. Long efforts uphill or going quick are just great.

My shoes have tyre scuffs, but I'm a happy man.

I want to learn to maintain a constant and high (by my standards) cadence on the road bike. So I've playing with bike set-up. My cleats are only a few mm behind the balls of my feet though. But it does seem to change the angle of my foot some. I'm not pointing my toes down so much anymore.

Here is my completed Daccordi, aka the banana bike or the titty bike...

Hope I put these in the right order...

All finished now... :)

D'oh! Clearly NOT in the right order

nice, apart from pedals. Proppa driveside picture? saddle angle looks a bit biff too

Any in-line saddle will do fine, I got a Condor one for £20 that look exactly like the Thomson.

Frankly it's a seatpost, It's a little hard to find one that doesn't do what it said on the tin.

edit - mike dun goofed it.

Yes, but some seatposts are more seatposty than others ;)

I would never ever buy another post with those rubbish 'teeth' that you get on cheap ones. Very limited angle options (normally either too far one way or other) and easily slip (unless they are a very good one).
The thompson 'style' ones with a bolt fore and aft are the way to go, infinite adjustment, usually decent construction (bolts on cheap ones stretch) and never slip (unless break).

Banana Tits is fantastic. Good work Terrorist.

I want to learn to maintain a constant and high (by my standards) cadence on the road bike. So I've playing with bike set-up. My cleats are only a few mm behind the balls of my feet though. But it does seem to change the angle of my foot some. I'm not pointing my toes down so much anymore.

Long winter rides spinning 48x19 has upped my cadence a bit. Rearward cleats did help with that, but only on the hills / into the wind when cadence is lower.

If you get all spinny with one position over the winter then change cleat posistion just as you go onto overgeared riding and generally riding harder isn't that going to confuse your legs?

It's confused me.

:0

I'll get a proper drive side picture up when I get the chance. bit of a dodgy angle on theat one (Also I'm trying to get the last piece of new century kit that I need (the front mech)).

Oh, and the pedals tend to interchange between black records with Zefal half clips and C-records with full toeclips depending on my shoes. The SPD's may eventually get on there when it stops chucking it down with rain...

Any in-line saddle will do fine, I got a Condor one for £20 that look exactly like the Thomson.

Frankly it's a seatpost, It's a little hard to find one that doesn't do what it said on the tin.

edit - mike dun goofed it.

Doesn't feature on the website, link?

I want to learn to maintain a constant and high (by my standards) cadence on the road bike. So I've playing with bike set-up. My cleats are only a few mm behind the balls of my feet though. But it does seem to change the angle of my foot some. I'm not pointing my toes down so much anymore.

As you two have been discussing this I was doing some reading and as far as I could make out from the usual heaps of internet conflicting opinions lies and vague conclusions. Moving your cleats backwards may help efficiency especially climbing but could lower cadence and be worse for sprinting. Is this the conventional wisdom?

So for fixed gear riding wouldn't a more forward position make sense, lower acceleration but easier spins.

Please as I said I read this on the internet so I have no idea if what i am saying has any base in fact.

but only on the hills / into the wind when cadence is lower.

This seems to confirm what I was reading. When you have to push harder cleats near the back is better. When spinning fast cleats near the front is better.

Can DI2 include an auto cleat adjusting system to adjust cleat position while riding to optimise for different areas of the race?

You'd need a Di2 seatpost too to adjust saddle height with the cleat position. :)

Doesn't feature on the website, link?

Brought it in the shop, look like to be the same model as Mike posted but better looking in the flesh with Condor written on it.

edit - actually it's slightly different and better looking.

here's mine;

I don't really like the silver clamp of the black seatpost. But maybe I'll go for a silver one and probably a black turbo saddle and two elite bottle cages.

This seems to confirm what I was reading. When you have to push harder cleats near the back is better. When spinning fast cleats near the front is better.

Just my two pence, but that does make sense if you're thinking of your achilles tendon and feet as the levers, your ankles as fulcrum points, and the cleats as the object being moved, then having a shorter distance past the fulcrum gives you more power (for pushing hard), whereas a longer lever ratio gives more movement (for fast spinning).