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• #59677
Quick mock up shot of my current project, excuse crap phone pic.
Ignore stem, track grips, slack chain, pink front skewer and possibly the bars too, t'is but a work in progress!
http://www.lfgss.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52195&d=1334347284
1 Attachment
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• #59678
Isn't that a Thomson stem? Looks good. In fact, the whole thing is looking sweet, good work! (Apart from the red grips.)
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• #59679
The Thomson is off my every day hack and is bit short for this, but helped get things in perspective and work out right sizing and measurements.
It'll be replaced with a Ritchey WCS 17deg 110mm stem in white with black clamp to match Ritchey labeled seat post (is a fake).
Grips came with the bars and never meant to stay, tempted by the Cinelli Mike Giant tape in black and pretty sure it'll go on a set of Deda Dabar's.
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• #59680
nice frame, shame about the compact geo..
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• #59681
kiddin:)
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• #59682
It's a bit weird, cause I know it's an '07 or earlier frame, but the geo that's listed by Giant isn't quite the same, for instance, the head tube is at least 20-30mm longer than whats listed.
Would like to know more about the history of this frame.
But, as luck would have it, it actually fits me pretty damn well! :D
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• #59683
careful with stem length if you're getting the bullhorns, knowing of your last Thomsonsizingate, I'd say get the bars and try them with the shorter stem before ordering the longer one....
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• #59684
Having carefully looked at the stretch on the Dabar's, I'm pretty sure that 110mm will be about right for em, but as you say, after my last build and going through I think six stem lengths, I'm being careful!!
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• #59685
Oh, I have the same frame. Mine has never seen the road though. I love it too much
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• #59686
Have to admit, it's the most responsive and possibly the most fun bike I've had and I've only ridden it down my road to the shops a couple of times.
Blisteringly quick and big grins! :D
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• #59687
Oh, I have the same frame. Mine has never seen the road though. I love it too much
Whats the geo on yours dude?
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• #59688
No idea, I didn't realise they'd changed geo. I'll have a look into it. The frame is right in front of me so measuring is easy enough.
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• #59689
Cheers.
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• #59690
This is apparently the '07 geo, but mine is 550mm seat tube by 550mm horizontal top tube with a 175mm head tube.
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• #59691
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• #59692
I was told it was a large I think, but its had a respray, so impossible to tell as it doesn't fit any listed measurements!
Mine seems like the bastard child of a 2007 mixed with a 2010!
Not that I'm complaining, it fits me better that way.
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• #59693
It looks like a large, medium has a fair slope to the top tube.
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• #59694
Normally you would have the leading spokes on the inside of the hub flange and the trailing spokes on the outside, as it's slightly stronger
Please explain, I'll change my habits if you have science. On rear wheels, it is traditional to have the pulling spokes inbound for crossed/interleaved builds (as pictured), because the increase in tension under power then tends to pull the interleaved crossing inboard, and away from the dérailleur. This is obviously irrelevant on track wheels.
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• #59695
Yeah, none of it looks like the listed geo though!
It's definitely 550mm c-t seat tube, 550mm c-c top tube and 175mm head tube (about 160mm if measured to inside of cups).
Looks almost traditional geo!
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• #59696
Please explain, I'll change my habits if you have science. On rear wheels, it is traditional to have the pulling spokes inbound for crossed/interleaved builds (as pictured), because the increase in tension under power then tends to pull the interleaved crossing inboard, and away from the dérailleur. This is obviously irrelevant on track wheels.
On dished rear wheels, yup, I know you're supposed to do it the other way. But I definitely got this from somewhere reputable, probably Jobst Brandt. I'll check the book.
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• #59697
Okay, So I have potentially a stupid question...
The fixed gear and lock-ring on the rear hub, which way round should they be installed?
I originally chucked the sprocket on such that it would tighten when pedalling forward, and the lock-ring on the opposite threading, (which I understand is the correct method?)
It seems the gap between the sprocket and the spokes isn't deep enough, and I'm getting a clickety-clack when the pedals turn. If I flip the sprocket the other way (to give more room), won't this be threaded incorrectly?
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• #59698
no, sounds like you have the sprocket on inside outey.
As is always the case with these things though, don't force anything.
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• #59699
that side is spokeside.
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• #59700
I have potentially a stupid question.
There are no stupid questions
If I flip the sprocket the other way (to give more room), won't this be threaded incorrectly?
I stand corrected
I just carry my jacket in my jersey pocket, easy to access it in case of sudden shower. Saddlebag tends to be full of tools, tube, money, bit of food...